Author Topic: 3 step 3m, now what?  (Read 2303 times)

Offline big bad blue

  • Newbie
  • *
  • Posts: 26
3 step 3m, now what?
« on: February 24, 2021, 03:30:34 PM »
 Just finished painting SS/C grabber blue. Sanded and buffed with 3m, used the B component to remove swirls (works like magic). When I used the hand glaze on the trunk lid, it was horrible, I couldn't get it off without a real fight. That was a week ago, I decided to give it another shot today. Used an applicator pad and terry cloth and multi-fiber. It went totally different. Worked really well, but will still give your arms a workout. Not sure if the paint was to fresh on the trunk lid??? Car is looking pretty good, but the glaze itself will scratch while putting it on, going over it twice helps alot. Now my Question. The finish doesn't have that slippery feel. Your towel will not slide off, I feel that maybe I should wax over this glaze? What do you guys think? I think I'm going to have arms like Popeye! Thanks.
70 Eliminator, dearborn 428 CJ born 11/12/69, auto.

Offline Hipo giddyup

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1202
  • There is no end to doing right. Giddyup!!!
Re: 3 step 3m, now what?
« Reply #1 on: March 04, 2021, 03:00:40 PM »
If the surface is not "slippery" after buffing with compound, it sounds like the top coat has not cured or something has gone wrong with the final application? I would NEVER wax a freshly painted car for about a month. Call it old fashion, but you need to make sure all the solvents have gotten out of the paint/clear. Maybe try a final buff in a week or so..
1967 Springtime Yellow Coupe, 289 2v 3spd, Metuchen built, Nov. 17th 66'
1966 Sahara Beige Coupe, 289 2v 3spd, Dearborn built, July 21st 66'
1964 1/2 Pagoda Green Coupe, 260 2v 3spd, Dearborn built, June 30th 64'
1966 GT350 Fastback clone, 289 HiPo, 725cfm Holley, 4spd, SanJose built, Nov 25th 65'

Offline 69bossnut

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 102
    • DSD Restorations LLC
Re: 3 step 3m, now what?
« Reply #2 on: March 05, 2021, 01:15:39 AM »
Im assuming SS/C is single stage color. If thats the case depending on what type single stage it was. It requires longer cure times to fully cure before you can cut & buff. Last stuff I sprayed needed to wait 30 days before cut & buff. I use Rupes polishing system & works phenomenal. Do not have to use any swirl removal because there are no swirls. You can YouTube there system saves a lot of steps & better finish when done. Would recommend not waxing for minimum of 30 days unless the finished has been baked to remove solvents. Otherwise will take min 30 days for solvents to fully evaporate from the finish. Good luck!!
« Last Edit: March 05, 2021, 01:19:06 AM by 69bossnut »
DAVID DAVIS
DSD RESTORATIONS LLC
5075 E. COUNTY RD. 126
BLYTHEVILLE, AR. 72315
870-780-4999
dsdresto@gmail.com
www.dsdrestoration.com