Author Topic: Ammeter Isolator Hardware  (Read 969 times)

Offline Bossbill

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Ammeter Isolator Hardware
« on: February 16, 2022, 07:08:13 PM »
I pulled out my ammeter isolator block and while it has issues, I think I can fix it.
However, my disassembly manual notes the isolator is held to the body with "2 - 5/16 head, flanged, #10, 3/4" long." It further notes no id inside of the head.
A #10 goes into the sheet metal nice so this appears correct.
Is this correct and is the finish S7?

I'm also missing the lock washer and nut.
Plain hardware in an S7?
Bill
Concours  Actual Ford Build 3/2/67 GT350 01375
Driven      6/6/70 0T02G160xxx Boss 302
Modified   5/18/65 5F09A728xxx 347 Terminator-X 8-Stack
Race        65 2+2 Coupe conversion

Offline Bob Gaines

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Re: Ammeter Isolator Hardware
« Reply #1 on: February 16, 2022, 07:20:11 PM »
I pulled out my ammeter isolator block and while it has issues, I think I can fix it.
However, my disassembly manual notes the isolator is held to the body with "2 - 5/16 head, flanged, #10, 3/4" long." It further notes no id inside of the head.
A #10 goes into the sheet metal nice so this appears correct.
Is this correct and is the finish S7?

I'm also missing the lock washer and nut.
Plain hardware in an S7?
S7 is what I have seen for both but the terminal block nut is not a lock washer and nut. It is typically a nut with attached spinning washer similar to the battery J bolt nuts.
Bob Gaines,Shelby enthusiast, Shelby collector , Shelby concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Offline Bossbill

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Re: Ammeter Isolator Hardware
« Reply #2 on: February 16, 2022, 08:25:06 PM »
Thanks Bob!
Bill
Concours  Actual Ford Build 3/2/67 GT350 01375
Driven      6/6/70 0T02G160xxx Boss 302
Modified   5/18/65 5F09A728xxx 347 Terminator-X 8-Stack
Race        65 2+2 Coupe conversion