ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1968 Mustang => Topic started by: bullitt68 on September 25, 2019, 01:37:45 AM
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Just curious about the mounting holes for the mirror. Does this look correct or are these inserts for possibly stripped holes. Note the 2 sets of holes. Doers anyone have a photo of original mounting holes.
Thanks
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The outer screws look to be the correct nutzerks in the correct locations. The other two screw holes without the inserts are not correct.
At least the extra holes are not outside the mirror base so they would easily be covered with the mirror. If you choose to replace the inserts, fill the extra holes in. If you choose to leave and re-use the inserts, you may wish to leave the extra holes (who would ever know?).
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The outer screws look to be the correct nutzerks in the correct locations. The other two screw holes without the inserts are not correct.
At least the extra holes are not outside the mirror base so they would easily be covered with the mirror. If you choose to replace the inserts, fill the extra holes in. If you choose to leave and re-use the inserts, you may wish to leave the extra holes (who would ever know?).
Thanks. Obviously the large hole if for the remote mirror cables. I will most likely weld up the smaller in side holes and re use the nutzerks. I just wanted to confirm that the nutzerks were a factory thing and not added by a previous owner.
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Thanks. Obviously the large hole if for the remote mirror cables. I will most likely weld up the smaller in side holes and re use the nutzerks. I just wanted to confirm that the nutzerks were a factory thing and not added by a previous owner.
If you are going to weld the holes, I suggest REPLACING the inserts. You will be much happier when (not if) you do.
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If you are going to weld the holes, I suggest REPLACING the inserts. You will be much happier when (not if) you do.
Thanks Richard That makes sense I will go that route.
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Thanks Richard That makes sense I will go that route.
PS: Be sure to get the type that came on the car, various vendors are selling the "rubber" ones that are junk.
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PS: Be sure to get the type that came on the car, various vendors are selling the "rubber" ones that are junk.
OK great advice. Where can I get the right ones?
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OK great advice. Where can I get the right ones?
Search can be your friend :)
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=6563.new#new (http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=6563.new#new)
And another related thread
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=6541.0 (http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=6541.0)
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Thanks Jeff I have the Nutsert tool, I just need to make sure that I use the right size Nutserts
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Thanks Jeff I have the Nutsert tool, I just need to make sure that I use the right size Nutserts
Hey Mike
Wondering what you ultimately did to install your driver side mirror. I have mine off. The rear insert spins completely. The front one spins a quarter turn. I'd like to replace both of them with nutsert. What tool do you have and what size nutsert did you use?
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The rear insert spins completely. The front one spins a quarter turn. I'd like to replace both of them with nutsert. What tool do you have and what size nutsert did you use?
They "spin" seems to be typical. As to size, it's listed in this forums library under topic "Mustang Hardware Spreadsheet, 67-68" in file MHW67-68AP.xlsx (by application) sorted so you look up "Mirror". Then go to Amazon and find a "nutsert" for that size and the tool. Be prepared for "sticker shock".
(A sign in a speed shop I used years back in my "drag racing" days said, "Speed costs money. How fast can you afford to go". The same applies to "restorations")
Jim
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Hey Mike
Wondering what you ultimately did to install your driver side mirror. I have mine off. The rear insert spins completely. The front one spins a quarter turn. I'd like to replace both of them with nutsert. What tool do you have and what size nutsert did you use?
Hi Dave I have none dealt with my doors yet as I have been making no progress on my car recently. However I don't recall mine spinning. I will have to check and get back to you. Thanks for reminding me as it is on my to do list.
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Hi Dave I have none dealt with my doors yet as I have been making no progress on my car recently. However I don't recall mine spinning. I will have to check and get back to you. Thanks for reminding me as it is on my to do list.
Thanks Mike. I'll be curious what you discover. I'm wondering how are the factory inserts put into the door and how are they supposed to stay still, not rotate. Seems that is a common problem. I also can't tell how to remove the factory inserts without enlarging the hole and beating up the door. If you have any thoughts on either that would be great.
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The hole can easily be repaired using an AN970 #10 washer with the center hole drilled to #1 AWG to accommodate the #8-24 steel Rivnut (proper nomenclature for this fastener). I use this tool: https://www.ebay.com/itm/385379893234?itmmeta=01HWBSBCWQF3JP85R3005R8R4Q&hash=item59ba6e7ff2:g:uCsAAOSwMYNj1juz&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwALDLaEu0ONSWBpqwG6t0NSDm6uCQMbuADwyKpmaYisGzUERNbFp5QdpaKB7i%2BTqid5SnEIvYpb8351gbRo4YUGhjG%2FeDazD049Qukt7avAhpA3WCofh93WR3fI2%2BB234Jdv1fwjaFw5pZzAg%2BDqStfgGc2V3%2Fj0xnKeVUIBV2lRfThhHljFWCf8GARrBWUwijUI42NGNbTdIhlE%2FEDKNo7jp5PdWkEhvzl45vR1IgIYhujGIYr26wz%2FueWdCuQ1AA%3D% (https://www.ebay.com/itm/385379893234?itmmeta=01HWBSBCWQF3JP85R3005R8R4Q&hash=item59ba6e7ff2:g:uCsAAOSwMYNj1juz&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwALDLaEu0ONSWBpqwG6t0NSDm6uCQMbuADwyKpmaYisGzUERNbFp5QdpaKB7i%2BTqid5SnEIvYpb8351gbRo4YUGhjG%2FeDazD049Qukt7avAhpA3WCofh93WR3fI2%2BB234Jdv1fwjaFw5pZzAg%2BDqStfgGc2V3%2Fj0xnKeVUIBV2lRfThhHljFWCf8GARrBWUwijUI42NGNbTdIhlE%2FEDKNo7jp5PdWkEhvzl45vR1IgIYhujGIYr26wz%2FueWdCuQ1AA%3D%)
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If your originals do not spin I recommend running a #8-24 tap through them to remove any paint that might be there before trying to install the mirror.
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Thanks Mike. I'll be curious what you discover. I'm wondering how are the factory inserts put into the door and how are they supposed to stay still, not rotate. Seems that is a common problem. I also can't tell how to remove the factory inserts without enlarging the hole and beating up the door. If you have any thoughts on either that would be great.
I was planning to grind the top off and then install the new rivnut
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If your originals do not spin I recommend running a #8-24 tap through them to remove any paint that might be there before trying to install the mirror.
My original inserts on the driver side both spin. I purchased a nutsert tool from Amazon, the one with the long arms for leverage, and was able to tighten up both of the inserts. I used a 10-24 tap to clean out the hole and reinstalled the mirror using 10-24 Phillips Oval head screws, not the Phillips Oval head sheet metal screws that were installed originally.
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My original inserts on the driver side both spin. I purchased a nutsert tool from Amazon, the one with the long arms for leverage, and was able to tighten up both of the inserts. I used a 10-24 tap to clean out the hole and reinstalled the mirror using 10-24 Phillips Oval head screws, not the Phillips Oval head sheet metal screws that were installed originally.
From the factory the outside mirror used the posi drive type machine thread screw. They have a counter sunk head like the generic mirror screws . Posi drive looks like a Philips cross head impression however they have a slighter different shape inside the allows for more torque to be applied without slipping. They are identified by 3 slash marks in between the Phillips impression . I believe that they are mentioned in the MCA rules. The picture I posted is to show the marks on the head. Disregard the flat head and sheet metal threads. NPD used to sell them but can't say currently.
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From the factory the outside mirror used the posi drive type machine thread screw. They have a counter sunk head like the generic mirror screws . Posi drive looks like a Philips cross head impression however they have a slighter different shape inside the allows for more torque to be applied without slipping. They are identified by 3 slash marks in between the Phillips impression . I believe that they are mentioned in the MCA rules. The picture I posted is to show the marks on the head. Disregard the flat head and sheet metal threads. NPD used to sell them but can't say currently.
That's interesting. They seem to be hard to come by. When I search for 376770-s100 screw that is listed in the fastener spreadsheet and on the assembly manual page N8-8505 I come up empty.
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I use these:
AMK Products P/N B-11557
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Link: https://www.amkproducts.com/bulk-fasteners-products/?Product_ID=11557 (https://www.amkproducts.com/bulk-fasteners-products/?Product_ID=11557)
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I use these:
AMK Products P/N B-11557
Those will no doubt work but are not the posi drive given they do not have the markings. It all depends on if you are concerned about doing it the assemblyline way or not.
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How about these from AMK?
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That's interesting. They seem to be hard to come by. When I search for 376770-s100 screw that is listed in the fastener spreadsheet and on the assembly manual page N8-8505 I come up empty.
Simply put, 376770-S100 is the assembly line screw for 1967 and 68 Mustang (probably others too). It is also the the service replacement screw for 1967 thru 1970 Mustangs as called out in the 1975 edition of "Ford Car Parts" (aka the infamous MPC). Apparently it is not reproduced or available.
I use these:
AMK Products P/N B-11557
Check the size required.
How about these from AMK?
The picture didn't copy, but the screw is 382968-S45, 10-24X1.0 SST, chrome plated, Pozi-Drive. It should be the correct thread size, but is 1 inch long, whereas 376770-S100 is 7/8 inch long. It is the assembly line specified screw for 69 and up.
You still need a "nutsert" that don't "spin".
Jim
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How about these from AMK?
it looks like you found some if you choose to be like the assemblyline.
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How about these from AMK?
Yes with the #8 Head those ought to fit and work fine. The extra length will not hurt anything.
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382968-S45 10-24 x 1 Chrome over SS, AMK P/N B-12524
379556-S36 10-24 Riv-Nut, AMK P/N B-12928
NPD Part Number: 17696-4AK
Manufacturer Reference #'s: AMK F-802