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Processes, Products & Techniques / Re: Red Dyed Hardware
« Last post by bullitt68 on Today at 12:55:24 AM »I don't see any reason to reinvent the wheel. Of course it is always good to have a alternative if needed.The Dykem layout dye that I got 1 month ago is transparent and looks the same as always. Besides being the product that AMK used and most likely still uses I am not for sure if the ink would hold up as good as the layout dye. Maybe it does but no good reason for me to change IMO. Plus it is easily accessible if I run out from Amazon or my local welding supply.
Agreed Bob. I was messing with dye and paint and other products, but ordered the Dykems dye and there is no going back now. It's cheap and far more durable from what I can tell as it is designed to be used on metal. The other methods are good in a pinch, but for the cost my money is on the machinist dye. However it does not work very well on phosphate, but appears that AMK uses a thicker non translucent product on the phosphate fasteners. The master cylinder, steering box bolts, idler arm nuts and bolts as well as the pitman arm nut for example. They appear to be painted. Not sure what they use but it does appear to be non translucent. When I tried the machinist dye on phosphated parts it was very hard to see the dye. I used the Dykems dye on the rear leaf spin/ axel nuts, as well as third member nuts