ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1966 Mustang => Topic started by: evantugby on January 27, 2018, 05:07:34 PM
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Hello Forum,
Gents,
I have a 1966 K-code fastback built 23 Oct 1965 at Metuchen.
Need some expert guidance on what paint is the right color for the following components:
-tie rods
-steering linkage
-parking brake equalizer and equalizer lever
-transmission crossmember
-toploader transmission
-rear brake drums
-front calibers
-front brake dust shields
-Motor mounts
-bellhousing separator plate
Most of these parts have been media blasted and are currently bare metal.
Thanks much!
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the following parts are NOT painted. suspension, transmission, brake drums, calipers. each has their own unique finish. again the library section will be your best reference. another thing, before you blast anything consider how it will affect the final finish. sometimes blasting is not the best way to clean used parts.
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There is no "correct paint" for much of your list and most were not painted originally and that is the focus here.
Hopefully your choice of cleaning methods or their prior condition (rust, damage...) does not preclude you being able to reuse the parts as carlite65 mentioned
-tie rods - Heat treated steel with stamped steel cover so three different finishes
-steering linkage- Heat treat steel with machined surfaces
-parking brake equalizer and equalizer lever- If you use the sreach feature there was a discussion of the finishes within the last two weeks
-toploader transmission - Bare cast iron steel with fresh machined surfaces and new stamped steel top cover - bare steel
-rear brake drums - Bare cast iron with fresh machined surfaces
-front calibers - Bare cast iron with fresh machined surfaces. Semi- gloss black pad retainers
-Motor mounts- Believe you should be early enough to have the 65 style so base cast iron with machined surfaces
-front brake dust shields - Semi-gloss black
-transmission crossmember -Semi- gloss black
- bellhousing separator plate- Bare new steel painted attached to the engine so engine blue along the upper and side edges, bare in the shadow of the block, blue along the face right behind the engine oil pan on the bottom section fading aware to almost or completely bare around much of the starter mating surface to insure a positive ground
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the following parts are NOT painted. . . brake drums, . .
Except (don't you just love exceptions) when a factory Style Steel Wheel was installed.
Need some expert guidance on what paint is the right color for the following components:
-tie rods
-steering linkage
Not painted as Jeff stated, but as these are heat treated, they will be dark (almost black), scaly (not too smooth) and oiled. In other words, don't bead blast and walk. The cover where the stud was inserted, should be cad (a reference, could be zinc) and the machined surfaces. When the grease boots are installed, you can't see the machining. See attached for the color/shade of a forged heat treated pair of center links.
Jim
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Except (don't you just love exceptions) when a factory Style Steel Wheel was installed.Not painted as Jeff stated, but as these are heat treated, they will be dark (almost black), scaly (not too smooth) and oiled. In other words, don't bead blast and walk. The cover where the stud was inserted, should be cad (a reference, could be zinc) and the machined surfaces. When the grease boots are installed, you can't see the machining. See attached for the color/shade of a forged heat treated pair of center links.
Jim
To add if painted it was just the drum face and not painted completely . With a brush(you can see brush strokes).
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Thanks for the inputs gentlemen. I'll upload pics when I'm done! I'll get back to work!
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There is no "correct paint" for much of your list and most were not painted originally and that is the focus here.
Hopefully your choice of cleaning methods or their prior condition (rust, damage...) does not preclude you being able to reuse the parts as carlite65 mentioned
-tie rods - Heat treated steel with stamped steel cover so three different finishes
-steering linkage- Heat treat steel with machined surfaces
-parking brake equalizer and equalizer lever- If you use the sreach feature there was a discussion of the finishes within the last two weeks
-toploader transmission - Bare cast iron steel with fresh machined surfaces and new stamped steel top cover - bare steel
-rear brake drums - Bare cast iron with fresh machined surfaces
-front calibers - Bare cast iron with fresh machined surfaces. Semi- gloss black pad retainers
-Motor mounts- Believe you should be early enough to have the 65 style so base cast iron with machined surfaces
-front brake dust shields - Semi-gloss black
-transmission crossmember -Semi- gloss black
- bellhousing separator plate- Bare new steel painted attached to the engine so engine blue along the upper and side edges, bare in the shadow of the block, blue along the face right behind the engine oil pan on the bottom section fading aware to almost or completely bare around much of the starter mating surface to insure a positive ground
J Speegle,
Lots of great information here. Where can I find more information on this and pictures? I want to know how to replicate these component's finishes.
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Except (don't you just love exceptions) when a factory Style Steel Wheel was installed.Not painted as Jeff stated, but as these are heat treated, they will be dark (almost black), scaly (not too smooth) and oiled. In other words, don't bead blast and walk. The cover where the stud was inserted, should be cad (a reference, could be zinc) and the machined surfaces. When the grease boots are installed, you can't see the machining. See attached for the color/shade of a forged heat treated pair of center links.
Jim
Jim,
Where can I learn more about this process of heat treatments and oiling? Do you have a link/reference?
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have you checked the Library sections yet?? search is always your friend here.
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Where can I learn more about this process of heat treatments and oiling? Do you have a link/reference?
For this application, heat treatment is usually done when a steel part is made. It's involved, and you would need to have a large facility to do it. Think - a high tech blacksmith, it usually changes the chemical makeup of the part. Once a part is heat treated, that's it. What you want to do is closely replicate the final product.
Check out "Phosphating 101" in the library.
Jim
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Jim,
Where can I learn more about this process of heat treatments and oiling? Do you have a link/reference?
If you go through a number of threads and articles you will find a number of ways to accomplish this. Different members often use different products and processes to accomplish the same final look
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There is no "correct paint" for much of your list and most were not painted originally and that is the focus here.
Hopefully your choice of cleaning methods or their prior condition (rust, damage...) does not preclude you being able to reuse the parts as carlite65 mentioned
-tie rods - Heat treated steel with stamped steel cover so three different finishes
-steering linkage- Heat treat steel with machined surfaces
-parking brake equalizer and equalizer lever- If you use the sreach feature there was a discussion of the finishes within the last two weeks
-toploader transmission - Bare cast iron steel with fresh machined surfaces and new stamped steel top cover - bare steel
-rear brake drums - Bare cast iron with fresh machined surfaces
-front calibers - Bare cast iron with fresh machined surfaces. Semi- gloss black pad retainers
-Motor mounts- Believe you should be early enough to have the 65 style so base cast iron with machined surfaces
-front brake dust shields - Semi-gloss black
-transmission crossmember -Semi- gloss black
- bellhousing separator plate- Bare new steel painted attached to the engine so engine blue along the upper and side edges, bare in the shadow of the block, blue along the face right behind the engine oil pan on the bottom section fading aware to almost or completely bare around much of the starter mating surface to insure a positive ground
J Speegle,
Do the strut rods on my kar get painted black?
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Strut rods should not be painted
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J Speegle,
Do the strut rods on my kar get painted black?
No they were not painted. They would be bare steel that had been hardened and oil quenched. So replicate the finish we describe as heat treated steel with a protecting oil/coating
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Thank you gentlemen. I ended up blasting, bluing, steel wooling, oiling and finally wiping down the following: front springs, steering linkage, tie rods, strut rods, spindles. I did paint the sway bar and engine cross member in a semi-gloss black. Overall I am happy with the results. I ordered a set of paint pens in 15 multi-colors to replicate paint daubs and found numbers.
(FYI: My rear pinion had a 307 number in pink on it. My brake cylinder had a 1065 number on the bottom also)
Thank you all for the comments. This site has been very helpful and I am grateful!
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Try using evapo-rust, has been discussed here on the forum previously. Works well at removing all rust and turning up any markings.
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Thank you all for the comments. This site has been very helpful and I am grateful!
Remember to redo the fresh machined surfaces. Example would be the spindle. Visible one the car is assembled will be the ball joint attachment, bump stop and the tie rod attachment surfaces. Not certain at the moment if the surfaces where the caliper mount or backing plate bolts pass through are visible. There is typically a spot where the finish will have been ground down and the metal tested so that would be brighter there also
Though its from a different year there is one attempt to reproduce the differences in finish
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/9/6-050218165419.jpeg)
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Oh wow! Well I need to do that. What method are people using to recreate these machine surfaced finishes?
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To quickly get the metal clean, roto-discs on a die grinder work well, then followed by a level block sander or stick.
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To quickly get the metal clean, roto-discs on a die grinder work well, then followed by a level block sander or stick.
how about this? haha. Just went out to the garage and did it. Never used a level block sander. Can you provide a recommendation?
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The issue with using a die grinder by itself is it will create inconsistent patterns and possibly round edges. Doing a final sand with something flat will give a more correct, 'freshly cut' appearance.
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The issue with using a die grinder by itself is it will create inconsistent patterns and possibly round edges. Doing a final sand with something flat will give a more correct, 'freshly cut' appearance.
++1 Without the final step it will be notably different from what was originally done
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which level block sander are you using? I want to make sure I get this right. I'm enjoying this restoration process and learning a great deal from you experts!
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Just something flat to wrap sandpaper around is fine, it's nothing technical. Paint sticks work well.
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Gents,
Follow-up question: How about the rear backing plates? I have them completely sand blasted. Do they get a semi-gloss black like the front backing plates?
Also, do these backing plates look original? Both have FOMOCO but one says Bendix 17564L and the other is so lightly stamped I can't read it.
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yes they are s/g black. look a little pitted though. have you seen charles turner's blog regarding a hi-poo he did several years ago?
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Did you find any white slash marks near the adjustment hole? Don't know if it was just a San Jose thing or if the other plants did them
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Did you find any white slash marks near the adjustment hole? Don't know if it was just a San Jose thing or if the other plants did them
These may be different size plates (different size rear brakes) different backing plates from what your working with Chris.
Also its not always that marking and not a San Jose detail IMHO.
We could get off into a complete thread on backing plates so will not go into greater detail here about 66 examples and the differences between cars and applications ;)
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Yes, lots of pitting there. Would suggest epoxy prime both of them, let it dry and then tape over the FoMoCo and Bendix markings. Cut as close to the markings as possible. Then use a quality build primer, sand, re-prime if necessary and then paint semi-gloss black.
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Yes, lots of pitting there. Would suggest epoxy prime both of them, let it dry and then tape over the FoMoCo and Bendix markings. Cut as close to the markings as possible. Then use a quality build primer, sand, re-prime if necessary and then paint semi-gloss black.
Does powdercoat hide imperfections well? Or would you still use epoxy primer?
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remember you are asking the concours guys here. powder coating is not an original finish. but it tends to be a tad thicker. i'd still follow charles' advice.
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Does powdercoat hide imperfections well? Or would you still use epoxy primer?
Will hide imperfections as well as factory details, markings and often leaves the part looking with a "dipped in plastic look" Not like an original part.
Easy way is not often the best way when it comes to restoring
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Fair points. :). Haha. Sometimes I forget I'm talking to concours guys. I will do most things concours but not everything I suppose.
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did you reference that blog i mentioned in reply #25?
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did you reference that blog i mentioned in reply #25?
Are you referring to the 65 San Jose he did? Don't think he's done a 66 K code that I can recall. Not that there are not allot of good pictures and help for many details he included in the blog
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i refered him to that for the techniques that were used to achieve some of the finishes.
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i refereed him to that for the techniques that were used to achieve some of the finishes.
+1 Sounds great