Topic: Generator Charging Problems...

[zim64half]

Hello all.

This is in reference to a 1964.5 Mustang.

The GEN light is on with the car running.

I am now on my 4th voltage regulator since I started trouble shooting this. I guess it possible all of them were bad out of the box but...

Things I have done:

I am measuring 11.99V at the battery with the car running. It usually measures 14V+ when the generator is working.
Tried several new regulators. 
I pulled the generator out and brought it to a local old-school starter/generator/alternator place and they told me it bench tested perfectly.
I bench tested it myself using the motoring method (connected the A and F terminals, grounded it, and then applied 12V to the AF jumper wire. It spins fast.
To polarize it, I have removed the Field wire from the regulator, and then "flashed it" to the battery terminal - got the expected spark. Reconnected field wire. I have actually done this several times now.
I have tested for continuity between the f pole on the gen and the f post on the VR. Same for the Armature wire. All tests 0.2 ohms. Ground is also good to everything too.

Still the generator, when in the car, and all hooked up, does nothing. I am measuring 0 volts at the A terminal and the F terminal when the car is running, whether I measure it at the regulator or the generator. No volts from the generator means no charging, and the GEN light stays on.

I am no expert here - but it just seems like the VR is not energizing the field properly. But these VR's are also $60 new these days, so I feel like after I have tried 4 of them, I am missing something, and really do not want to just go buy another one.

Any thought on anything I can try? I need an old school guy to help with this one...

Thanks!

-Zim

[jwc66k]

It's been a while but I remember having to polarize the voltage regular when used with a generator. I don't know if that still needs to be done.
A couple of other checks:
What does the voltmeter read on the disconnected battery?
What does the voltmeter read on another battery?
Jim

[zim64half]

Have you ever been stumped with a problem, so you sit down and type out your frustrated plea for help, only to then go back out in the garage and solve the problem?

Turns out, the bench testing of the generator, whether it was me or the shop, was done with aligator clips on the field stud.

When the generator was in the car, the field wire is attached with a nut torqued down on a ring terminal.

Turns out, it appears my field terminal stud is damaged around the base, where an insulator separates it from the body of the generator.  When I used an aligator clip to feed the field 12v straight from the battery it started charging.

When I put the field wire back on loosely, it continued charging.  When I torqued it down - it shorted out and stopped charging.

This has been one of the most frustrating problems Ive ever had with this car.

For now, I used two jam nuts to attach the wire to the field stud up away from the body of the generator.  Started it up - and no light.

I am also now getting between 13.9 and 14.1v at the battery.

Figured I'd follow up right away.  Thanks !

-Zim

[carlite65]

makes you feel good to fix a nagging problem doesn't it??

[jwc66k]

Turns out, it appears my field terminal stud is damaged around the base, where an insulator separates it from the body of the generator.  When I used an aligator clip to feed the field 12v straight from the battery it started charging.

Nice bit of trouble shooting, and a nice "quick" fix. I would get the correct insulator, Ford 81A 10206, bushing (Ford's name - ref 75 MPC, sec 100 pg 8 ), or make one. The original is probably made from fiber and time has taken its toll. To make one, I suggest a two piece approach, an inner "sleeve" to keep the stud away from the housing and a flat washer on top of the housing, both made from an insulated material. I looked at my "leftover" electronics stuff and the insulators I have that might work are for a size 8 screw, you need a size 10. Sorry.
Jim

[NEFaurora]

Zim, Long time no see... Welcome Back..

What I suggest is to swap over to a Powermaster PowerGEN Alternator...  It's a Modern Alternator alternative to using a Real Generator, Yet it still looks like an original Ford Generator....Thousands sold!  They work great! Many Satisfied '64 1/2 Generator Mustang Customers!!

https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/powermaster-powergen-alternators?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&tw=powerGEN&sw=Powermaster%20PowerGEN%20Alternators

I believe that PowerMaster PowerGEN Model# 82101-2 is correct for a 1964 1/2 260 V8.

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=Powermaster+Powergen+application+Chart

Also, On your Original Generator, Check all of your Ground connections. 

)

Tony K.

[CharlesTurner]

Tony:  Zim found the problem and fixed it, which was noted in the thread.  Since the focus of this site is authenticity, I would not recommend the products referenced below.

What I suggest is to swap over to a Powermaster PowerGEN Alternator...  It's a Modern Alternator alternative to using a Real Generator, Yet it still looks like an original Ford Generator....Thousands sold!  They work great! Many Satisfied '64 1/2 Generator Mustang Customers!!

https://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/powermaster-powergen-alternators?SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending&tw=powerGEN&sw=Powermaster%20PowerGEN%20Alternators

I believe that PowerMaster PowerGEN Model# 82101-2 is correct for a 1964 1/2 260 V8.

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=Powermaster+Powergen+application+Chart

Also, On your Original Generator, Check all of your Ground connections. 

[NEFaurora]

Never said anything about it being Concours...

I made the suggestion because he might want to upgrade to something more reliable "that still looks somewhat Original" especially if he continually has driveability issues as I know that Zim likes to drive his car a lot from his years of postings..

Originally/Authenticity was never seriously implied... It was more of just a suggestion..

)

Tony K.