Since you can crank and start, but the engine won't stay running, take a look at diagram 3 from the attachment on the previous post, representing when the ignition switch is in the run position.
The steps I recommend are:
Test 1: (easy) measure the voltage from the red-green wire at the coil, with reference to ground, while it is still connected to the coil.
1a. Measure voltage when cranking and report back here. I assume that this is about 12V since you said in the original post that the engine will start with no hesitation.
1b. Measure voltage right after cranking, with key in run, and report back here. I assume that this is near zero since you mentioned 0.76V, but your description of "ign to coil" is not perfectly clear to me.
Note that the following tests would be my recommendation if the running voltage at the coil is near zero.
Test 2: (easy) put the ignition switch in the run (not crank) position, then measure voltage on the brown wire at the starter relay. You can pull the wire from the relay, it does not need to be connected to anything. Reference is ground.
2a. If you have a nominal 12V, then your ignition switch and resistor wire are good. Go to test 4.
2b. If you have no or very low voltage, go to test 3.
Test 3. (intermediate) pull the ignition switch out and temporarily jump from the yellow (battery) terminal to the pink resistor wire. Then measure voltage (reference to ground) on the brown wire at the starter relay. This will bypass the ignition switch contact in an attempt to prove out the resistor wire.
3a. If you have voltage at the brown starter relay wire, then your ignition switch is suspect but pink resistor wire and wiring in general is ok. Replace your ignition switch.
3b. If you have nothing at the brown starter relay wire then you have a problem in the wiring - could be the resistor wire or a connector issue. Go to test 4.
Test 4. With ignition switch in the off position, temporarily jumper battery voltage to the red-green wire of the ignition coil, with the wire pulled from the coil terminal. Measure voltage on the brown wire at the starter relay with reference to ground.
4a. If you have voltage at the brown starter relay wire, wires 16, 16B, and 262 are connected. Keep in mind that this test is with no load, and therefore could show a false positive. Go to test 5.
4b. (difficult) If you have no or low voltage, there is a problem with the wiring or connectors shown on the diagram. Check the 14289 to 14290 harness connector first, which if I recall is in the engine compartment. If that is ok, you will need to get up under the dash and check out the 14401 to 14290 connection point.
Test 5. At this point the ignition switch and resistor wire are good, and the wiring is connected and intact. However, there might be a significant voltage drop across a connection or bad area of a wire while the circuit is loaded, when the engine is running and current is flowing to the coil. What I do in a situation like this is to get a small needle and use it to probe through the wires at various points in the circuit along the way in an attempt to uncover where the voltage drop is occuring. In this particular case I would probably start at the red-green wire ahead of the connector at the coil. Note that these are all measuring voltage with reference to ground, with the key in run. Also note that as you probe along the way, as soon as you find some significant voltage, let's say over 9V for discussion purposes, you have isolated the problem between there and the previous measured point. If that first probed voltage is low, then go to the 14289 to 14290 connector, and measure the red-green wire on the 14289 side, followed by the 14290 side. If those are low, move up to the 14290 to 14401 connector under the dash.
