Topic: Undercarriage body color and pinch weld overspray

[priceless]

I would assume this question has been ask before here, but can't find it with search.
My question is: Is the body color and black pinch weld overspray suppose to be heavy? I have dug through some of my past issues of Mustang magazines of sorts, and see all kinds of variations,i.e; some heavy, some not so heavy, some not at all. And yes i know it varies from each assembly plant, model year,etc. Most of the photos I've seen are from the restoration of the Mustang. And a few are original/unrestored. Some don't have black pinch weld overspray, some do.
 
 The MCA rulebook states, " some body color and pinch weld overspray". For the home restorer, should overspray be put on heavy, or just SOME overspray applied?  By the way, I've got a 69 Mach 1, Metuchen built Mustang. Thanks for any kind of response. 

[J_Speegle]

Of course just about everything you have seen in Mustang Monthly would have been cars that were restored  so IMHO not the best examples. In general I would say that cars we see restored have allot less overspray and its normally applied allot lighter than originally. This is because most painters or owners add the overspray later rather than allowing it to be produced during the exterior application. Also many use small rattle cans rather than a gun to apply the pinch weld black out which often produces a different pattern and allot less volume something that can result in point deduction.

The amount of body color overspray would different between some years (example 71 with lowers being painted first on some models would produce less overspray) but other than those models I thing it was more a difference between painters rather than plants since some older workers or taller ones might not get as low on the body for as long as shorter or younger workers. As for the pinch weld these appear to be fairly regular in application with similar amounts of overspray and volume  but like many things no two are exactly the same

[priceless]

Thanks for reply. Yes, I am wanting to replicate the overspray with rattle can, but, just wondering would it be worth it. Maybe do more harm than good? I have the rattle can AP-181(Acapulco Blue) from Cal. Mustang, and the Eastwood Chassis black #10025Z,actually have several cans of each. We have been showing our Mach 1 for several years and are only 3 points away from conservator and have only been counted off 3 total points for no overspray over these several years. I thought it would give our Mach 1 a little more authentic look underneath but, I'm not really happy about having to possibly remove the gas tank, drop the rearend, etc, just to add a little overspray.

Maybe, it wouldn't be worth replicating it as it may cause more harm than good. Just leaving the undercarriage red oxide with no overspray?...what do you think?

By the way, have seen several in person at shows over the years and not only in magazines, but still wondering if it'd be worth it....thanks for any reply.

[CharlesTurner]

In my opinion, it would be worth the effort.  The gas tank and other areas could be taped/covered.

I would recommend to talk to a local body shop or someone that's good with a paint gun so you can get the right look.  It will be tough to do it with spray cans although I'm sure it has been done many times before with decent results.

[J_Speegle]

.............................Maybe, it wouldn't be worth replicating it as it may cause more harm than good. Just leaving the undercarriage red oxide with no overspray?...what do you think?

What would I do?  Fix it. It would bother me knowing that the car was not done like it was originally and I would worry that someone would see my car at a show and copy the details, apply them to their car and then lose points.

But that is me.

[1970shelbyguy]

 hi guys- question i've been asking myself is should i go for concours TRAILER restored or concours DRIVEN restored.?  do i leave floorboards in batch gray or do i still shoot some black undercoating under floors in trailered class. ( i think not)-  if i entered the car in concours driven and showed no undercoating how many points could i lose?  i still want to drive it but i don't want to  blast everything with black u/coat.  using a mca 2010 judging sheet.-   was the car painted  prior to outer wheelwells given the sound deadener application? or was deadener applied after car was painted.    page 10 mca 2010 judging sheet  wheel wells section states : rear well housing- blacked out with s/deadener . body color OR blk overspray over sound deadener-  my question is could i just have body color paint over deadener-  grabber blue in my case. or should it be blacked out because it's a lighter color car .  i have a pail of that spectrum to slap on.  thanks again for the help

[J_Speegle]

First I'm guessing that your asking about your 70 GT350 convertible  since it was not included in your post

hi guys- question i've been asking myself is should i go for concours TRAILER restored or concours DRIVEN restored.?  do i leave floorboards in batch gray or do i still shoot some black undercoating under floors in trailered class. ( i think not)-  if i entered the car in concours driven and showed no undercoating how many points could i lose?  i still want to drive it but i don't want to  blast everything with black u/coat.  using a mca 2010 judging sheet.-

No you don't have to add undercoating (cars were not undercoated from the factory and if you did you would receive a deduction in Trailer Concours

"Undercoating: No undercoating allowed in Trailered Class."

   was the car painted  prior to outer wheelwells given the sound deadener application? or was deadener applied after car was painted.

No it was painted after the sound deadener was applied to the rear wheelwells


 

    page 10 mca 2010 judging sheet  wheel wells section states : rear well housing- blacked out with s/deadener . body color OR blk overspray over sound deadener- 

Its been requested that "Blacked out with sound deadener. " be removed from the 2012 version (was recommended 5/11)

my question is could i just have body color paint over deadener-  grabber blue in my case. or should it be blacked out because it's a lighter color car .  i have a pail of that spectrum to slap on.  thanks again for the help

If you do not want any deductions then you will need the body color over the sound deadener> this is even if you apply (ok in up coming rules) black over the body color since originally (if and when rarely done) there was no attempt to cover all the body color in the wheelwell, frame rails and floor panels near by

[1970shelbyguy]

thankyou jeff-   this helps a lot-   BTW-  i have a gt500 sportsroof ( wish it was a convert!) .  dead ringer for a bill collins car ( # 3130) posted a few yrs ago.  just came across the pics last nite.  only difference i can see is that mine was california dso'd hence the scramble to search for correct fuel tank  vapor stuff.

[J_Speegle]

thankyou jeff-   this helps a lot-   BTW-  i have a gt500 sportsroof ( wish it was a convert!) .  dead ringer for a bill collins car ( # 3130) posted a few yrs ago.  just came across the pics last nite.  only difference i can see is that mine was california dso'd hence the scramble to search for correct fuel tank  vapor stuff.

Thanks fro setting me straight. BTW you car would have sound deadener applied to the floor (pretty much contained to the area below the seats and front floor board. Not real heavy (like the dealer undercoating) Typically three quick passes with the wand - one down the center (end of trans backwards) and one each side before driveline and exhaust was installed

[1970shelbyguy]

allright jeff-   i'll have to spray some stuff on my beautifull  gray floors after all-   so the end of antenna tube gets cut a bit i see. thanks ED! 

[Bob Gaines]

allright jeff-   i'll have to spray some stuff on my beautifull  gray floors after all-   so the end of antenna tube gets cut a bit i see. thanks ED!

To cut the tube you can use a tube cutter for cutting copper pipe and such . You can recrimp the bottom by first supporting the outside tube and then folding in the two sides like the factory . By supporting the outside of the round tube it keeps the sides from distorting when folding in the crimp. Bob