ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Body, Paint & Sealers => Topic started by: preaction on October 22, 2022, 04:26:23 PM
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Many threads about black paint not many about the rear axle housing I did one its been some time I have PPG DP90LF and Im not sure if this passes as a finish color or used just as a primer and then a top coat of SG black is used ?
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I had my housing powder coated in SG black and I am very happy both with the appearance and durability.
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I've never used a primer or power coating on such parts since I didn't want to add thickness to the piece and diminish the details many of us want to see such as clamping and the welds.
Ford didn't need it so use that as a guide. As an improvement I might consider a two part paint rather than the original lacquer since its more difficult to find today. Also as has mentioned in other threads. If you use a contrasting color primer or lay a matching color primer when you tighten down the clamps they can often damage and crack the paint in the housing tubes.
Have tubes that were painted 30 years ago and have had no issues with the paint nor durability. Just my experience
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I have thought about powder coating as its very durable I have a housing thats in very good condition as far as corrosion goes so paint seems to be a good option. Jeff, I have PPG DDL9423 low gloss black Lacquer would this fit the use and can this type of product be applied to bare metal ? Mixing and applying is one thing proper application is another.
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I have thought about powder coating as its very durable I have a housing thats in very good condition as far as corrosion goes so paint seems to be a good option. Jeff, I have PPG DDL9423 low gloss black Lacquer would this fit the use and can this type of product be applied to bare metal ? Mixing and applying is one thing proper application is another.
Have not used that formula in the past but can't see an issue if the surface is prepped and you don't coat it with a heavy coat. Lots of angles and niches to try and get paint in all the little spaces so do them first then coat the larger areas. Not sure how they did this originally since I don't recall ever finding bare areas in the shadows of the perches like you find, for example, under the hood bumper supports on the radiator support. Must just have taken more care and possibly their inspectors at Sterling caring more about these details.
Of course as mentioned there are better ways that will make for a superior final finish but the focus is to not make a better car when we look at these details but to replicate the original look and finish
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Better not use Dot 3 or you will have original damage if it gets to the paint.
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Better not use Dot 3 or you will have original damage if it gets to the paint.
Agreed. Got to make sure that you use long tubes and a catch can/jar to reduce the chances. Would guess the workers on the line used something similar since you rarely if ever see any damage on a well preserved original car in collections
Always can go with other options of course for the brake fluid - following the instructions
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Stupid question - so SG black in this era of Fords on components like this was lacquer? I only worried about using lacquer on interior paint.
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Better not use Dot 3 or you will have original damage if it gets to the paint.
Yes this is a very good point Dot3 doesnt affect powder coat.
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Yes this is a very good point Dot3 doesnt affect powder coat.
fwiw, I shot the PPG Epoxy Primer as a base coat on my mostly rust-free housing and it was too flat in general appearance. I then masked off some of the details Jeff mentioned and applied a contrasting color filler-primer (light grey) and filled some of the minor pitting found, carefully stopping the sanding process at the epoxy level. Ultimately, I top-coated in the same lacquer that I used in the engine bay.
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Looks nice, whether accurate or not I cannot say, but also accept yours as a good finish.
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I am going to do mine in cerakote. Extremely thin and impervious to chemicals and Extremely scratch resistant and heat resistant. Only issue is nothing sticks to it, ie paint markings, unless you sand it. Going to us dp 90 as one application base coat the cerakote semi gloss black. That should leave all factory metal striations visible. Going to do all semi gloss black parts that way. Just what I'm doing, doesn't make it gospel. Going to do some parts in steel color as well.
Dan in kansas.