ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1964 1/2 - 1965 => Topic started by: 65fastbk on January 20, 2018, 02:34:16 AM
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Hi,
Looking for some quality upper and lower control arms for a driver. I saw some rare parts ones, the scott drake ones. Not sure if its better to buy one of these or find someone to rebuild my originals. What is everyone using?
Thx!
Mark
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I had Anghel Restorations redo mine. Turned out great.
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The RP ones that I have seen were for a 67-68 and the shape on the sides was incorrect. I used an original control arm to mark out the correct side dimensions and ground the RP ones down. They actually came out really nice. The ball joint was a cheap replacement, bought some MOOG ones and used correct boots and had Marcus rivet them on. The only benefit of the RP ones is that you start with clean, pit-free metal, they will require additional work to make them look decent.
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The RP ones that I have seen were for a 67-68 and the shape on the sides was incorrect. I used an original control arm to mark out the correct side dimensions and ground the RP ones down. They actually came out really nice. The ball joint was a cheap replacement, bought some MOOG ones and used correct boots and had Marcus rivet them on. The only benefit of the RP ones is that you start with clean, pit-free metal, they will require additional work to make them look decent.
Wonder what they would want for just the bare a arms. For the guys that can't find nice unrusty originals. I liked the that they had the stretch and holder (when shaping) marks that go away when some blast or clean their originals
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The RP ones that I have seen were for a 67-68 and the shape on the sides was incorrect. I used an original control arm to mark out the correct side dimensions and ground the RP ones down. They actually came out really nice. The ball joint was a cheap replacement, bought some MOOG ones and used correct boots and had Marcus rivet them on. The only benefit of the RP ones is that you start with clean, pit-free metal, they will require additional work to make them look decent.
What is RP for the uninitiated (like dumb ol' me...)?
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What is RP for the uninitiated (like dumb ol' me...)?
I suspect they are talking about "Rare Parts" the supplier.
-Scott
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I had Anghel Restorations redo mine. Turned out great.
+1 Marcus does nice work.
-Scott
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I suspect they are talking about "Rare Parts" the supplier.
+1 Originally a company that started making niche parts that were out of production for allot of odd brands, they started doing the rivets and stamping for a few of us, then moved into wider markets selling directly then on to and including reproduction parts for other vendors. Owners have been the same since they left their earlier job and set up the shop next the the alignment shop they started with and the rest is history. Guys running the shop and the engineers have changed over the years.
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I had Anghel Restorations redo mine. Turned out great.
What price did you get for the rebuild on your upper and lower control arms? I was just quoted at $800 for the upper and $800 for the lower by Anghel Restorations.
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That's about right. Take a look at what he was able to do to mine. He even got the jacking tabs back up after being crushed
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=15308.15
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So the Scott Drake upper and lower control arms are not completely correct (pics attached)?
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nope. rivits, paint line among other things.
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I’m replacing mine but can’t afford the restoration route ($800 each). So the rivits are the incorect style? Are they supposed to be the waffle pattern? Any more specifics on the issues with the Scott Drakes? I’ve not seen anything closer to originals.
I’m replacing my control arms and tie rods. My steering is sloppy and the car has the squeeks, tired of spraying everything with lithium grease:).
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I’m replacing mine but can’t afford the restoration route ($800 each). So the rivits are the incorect style? Are they supposed to be the waffle pattern? Any more specifics on the issues with the Scott Drakes? I’ve not seen anything closer to originals.
I’m replacing my control arms and tie rods. My steering is sloppy and the car has the squeeks, tired of spraying everything with lithium grease:).
A small book could be written on the differences. If you are going the economy route the Drake would be a good compromise IMO . There is a lot worse out there on the market. However do not have any illusion that the Drake parts are very much like assemblyline. They will only fool the uninformed. They have a lot of "tells" as mentioned before.
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What would be a good quality aftermarket upper and lower control arm to get if one had to. I know the Rare parts one do not look factory, but they are made in the US i thing, not sure of the Scott drake ones?
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What would be a good quality aftermarket upper and lower control arm to get if one had to. I know the Rare parts one do not look factory, but they are made in the US i thing, not sure of the Scott drake ones?
Might check out Moog at the local parts store. IMHO they have generally been quality providers and the suppliers at time for Ford
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Might check out Moog at the local parts store. IMHO they have generally been quality providers and the suppliers at time for Ford
Moog used to be the way to go but I am afraid that they have changed too. They will be a compromise also. You will be trading one compromise (Scott Drake )for another. Not a bolt on if you want a original look.
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Moog used to be the way to go but I am afraid that they have changed too. They will be a compromise also. You will be trading one compromise (Scott Drake )for another. Not a bolt on if you want a original look.
Agreed - took his "good quality" as a deviation from correct and original since that had clearly been addressed
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Agreed - took his "good quality" as a deviation from correct and original since that had clearly been addressed
Understood. Not really any easy button for this situation. Only different levels of compromise to choose from . The ones already mentioned are the main ones.
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This reproduction is available online, has correct waffle style rivets. Seems if you apply correct paint and boot it would serve as a pretty close example to use.
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This reproduction is available online, has correct waffle style rivets. Seems if you apply correct paint and boot it would serve as a pretty close example to use.
You will have to strip the black oxide coating off which is there to act as a rust inhibitor over the bare metal with something first. It is like a gun blueing process but is too dark for a correct bare metal look. I have used a mild acid like wire wheel cleaner when dealing with service replacement parts that had the same finish . If you don't you will be wasting your time because they will not have the correct look even after dipping up to the ball joint in black paint.
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You will have to strip the black oxide coating off which is there to act as a rust inhibitor over the bare metal with something first. It is like a gun blueing process but is too dark for a correct bare metal look. I have used a mild acid like wire wheel cleaner when dealing with service replacement parts that had the same finish . If you don't you will be wasting your time because they will not have the correct look even after dipping up to the ball joint in black paint.
BoB,
What product did you use for the "mild acid like wire wheel cleaner"?
Thank you!
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BoB,
What product did you use for the "mild acid like wire wheel cleaner"?
Thank you!
Eagle one chrome and wire wheel cleaner is what I use there are other wire wheel cleaners that use mild acid in their formula.