ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Misc Items => Topic started by: 67gtasanjose on April 23, 2016, 01:11:59 PM
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My original, date correct blower motor is functioning fine and while the heating/AC system is out of the car I wondered if I shouldn't take the motor apart to inspect, repair and lubricate as needed.
I believe these to have contact brushes in them, possibly a good time to replace them (if they are available) but I do not want also to destroy a good running motor either.
Has anyone been dow this road before? If I had a spare, I'd just dive into it and learn by mistake is needed.
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Take a look in the Library.
Jim
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Richard, I took apart my w/s washer motor to clean it out. Moved the lube around to where it would be useful (looks like extra product when built gets pushed out). I cleaned the brushes, a lot of life yet.
I think I have a couple extra blower motors and can send one your way if needed.
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The larger concern I had was breaking something and not being able to repair the damage.
I
After posting this, I found the entry in the Library but haven't yet studied it.
Thanks guys
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Nothing comes up when I search. What the hell is it labeled?
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Nothing comes up when I search. What the hell is it labeled?
It's under "ConcoursMustang.com Official 66 Mustang Article List" - "Heater Motor Feed Cable, Parts 1 and 2".
Jim
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It's under "ConcoursMustang.com Official 66 Mustang Article List" - "Heater Motor Feed Cable, Parts 1 and 2".
Jim
And under 65, 67, 68 and Shelby sections ;)
Tried to cover all the bases
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It was my choice of words in the search criteria. "Blower Motor Restoration" yields zilch!
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I probably sped past the article in the Library section in previous viewings since I wasn't interested in "changing the wiring" on my blower motor ever (AC cars, everything is safe under the dash). I didn't initially see anything about "restoring" one either so I went with all years from "home" screen and just searched "blower motor" and filtered the results. I first read a reference to the Library article within another thread when Jeff directed another member to it about an issue they were having with the motor. Anyways, thanks for the directions. They helped a lot. I also found some help in another forum by people who have found help outside this forum too. It seems nothing really new under the sun (well, except the unique way I used to remove the squirrel cage without destroying it ;) )
Last question: Has anyone found replacement brush kits for these?(if needed) ...or do we dissect other originals or purchase a new one for parts?
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The only problem I've ever seen with blower motors is the bearings have gone bad, either freezing up the shaft or causing the motor to whine.
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The only problem I've ever seen with blower motors is the bearings have gone bad, either freezing up the shaft or causing the motor to whine.
Though I had no noise the other day when I hot-wired the motor to machine the squirrel cage hub (in order to use my PS pulley removing tool to press the wheel off), with the reassurance of you all who have gone before me and knowing there may be replacement parts (whole other motors available) I took it apart this morning. The motor housing is completely different than the one in the Library article but the internals look much the same.
I am very happy I took it apart. Is is very dirty inside from living in the So. California Dessert areas it's whole "driven" life (Barstow & Palm Springs). Amazing that the brushes survived very well.
Attached are a few pictures I took for reference:
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And under 65, 67, 68 and Shelby sections ;)
Tried to cover all the bases
And he did.
Jim
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Last question: Has anyone found replacement brush kits for these?(if needed) ...or do we dissect other originals or purchase a new one for parts?
I got a second motor from the local junk yard and "stripped it".
The only problem I've ever seen with blower motors is the bearings have gone bad, either freezing up the shaft or causing the motor to whine.
The feed leads are the most common problem. The insulation cracks which exposes the wires which may short out. The other problem it cutting and splicing the blower hot lead to get switched 12vdc for an electric choke. It's sometimes a messy modification.
If you think you need to lubricate the bushings, use 3 in 1 20W oil, not the sewing machine variety.
Jim
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I got a second motor from the local junk yard and "stripped it".The feed leads are the most common problem. The insulation cracks which exposes the wires which may short out. The other problem it cutting and splicing the blower hot lead to get switched 12vdc for an electric choke. It's sometimes a messy modification.
It took me a minute to figure out this part of your comment...You were referring to another reason a person might find damaged wires on the 64-1/2 thru 68 "heater only" type motors where the motor body & wiring would be mounted through the cowl, into the engine compartment. Got it. On Select-Aire type systems like my 67, this wouldn't likely have occurred since the blower motor wires are under the dash near the fuse panel area...fairly safe from a "butcher" or "hack job" type technician having spliced into them ;) This is one reason (as mentioned in previous comment) I didn't initially ever click on the Library Article...My WIRES are perfect...my concern was to prevent any future issues that might occur with the motor since it is so much more miserable to remove than the "heater only" system type. (and those are not fun either)
If you think you need to lubricate the bushings, use 3 in 1 20W oil, not the sewing machine variety.
Jim
Yes, this is my plan, thank you for the suggestion. I like all of the other recommendations in the Article on cleaning & painting. I plan on following most every suggestion. About the only item I will not follow closely is the restamping process. I will refresh & mask off my original stamp. I did this on my wiper motor & am happy with how it turned out.
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One item I keep forgetting - there's a retainer on the shaft that the fan goes on. Don't break it. The retainer looks like an internal tooth lock washer. I have not found a replacement yet. There is a very thin "thrust washer" under the retainer - DON"T LOSE IT. I haven't found a replacement yet either. I think the retainer is used to keep the rotor shaft from bottoming out at the brush end. The trust washer is used as a simple bearing.
To remove the retainer, use a Xacto type knife and gently pry the retainer up the shaft a 1/64 inch at a time. There is no grove for it to get stuck in. After you've moved it up a 1/4 inch, a small screw driver should be able to move it high enough to slide off the shaft with your fingers. DON'T LOSE THE THRUST WASHER.
When I did the blower motor wire replacement article, I used a motor from a friends heater and took one of mine off the shelf for the pictures. Neither had the retainer or thrust washer. I don't know if this retainer was installed plant peculiar or not installed by design. Another friend came over with his motor and that's when I "discovered" the retainer. Looking at the other heater blower motors I have on the shelf, all but one have the retainer.
Jim