ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Processes, Products & Techniques => Topic started by: suskeenwiske on May 15, 2015, 08:53:54 PM
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What is used or how can I reproduce the Translucent Gold finish found on the exposed outer portion of the Alternator Stator?
Thanks
Ray
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Its an insulator coating from my understanding. Some mix clear with a little coloration to get an acceptable finish unless your rebuilding and tearing it apart.
Can be tough to get behind the three bolts that hold the haves together but they can be carefully removed one at a time (you'll want to replate them anyway) or all at once (be very careful to not pull the halves apart unless that is part of your plan)
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An insulating varnish is commonly used on wound coils and in other electrical applications such as this. Typical varnish is red or reddish orange, but the color varies. There might be a "red" out there that matches the orangish/gold color you're looking for. Yellow is also available - you may be able to mix red & yellow to get the right color.
There are lots of sources for insulating varnish. Here are a couple to get you started:
Red: http://anchor-electronics.com/product/mgchemicals-4228-insulating-varnish/ (http://anchor-electronics.com/product/mgchemicals-4228-insulating-varnish/)
Yellow: http://anchor-electronics.com/product/mgchemicals-4226-corona-dope/ (http://anchor-electronics.com/product/mgchemicals-4226-corona-dope/)
I like Jeff's suggestion of only having one bolt out at any time to access underneath.
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Unrelated, except it might help someone working on their alternator. Personally, I would simply take the whole thing apart and replace brushes and install a kit. It isn't that difficult on these old style alternators.
FRONT CASE REMOVAL OR RE-CLOCKING without disturbing the back of the alternator (brushes) This procedure also helps for cleaning and/or front bearing replacement.
Using a 1/2"impact wrench, holding the fan and pulley with one hand (I suggest a glove or a thick rag if your hands are tender, though I often do it bare handed), spin off the pulley nut, lift the pulley, spacer and fan out. Mark clock rotation of rear housing to front housing (felt tip marker or simply take notes), remove three bolts that hold the case halves together being careful to NOT ALLOW THE HALVES TO SEPERATE, and this is where you want to be careful:
Watching out that the center windings stay against the rear outer case housing and simultaneously pressing (or tapping with a soft, brass hammer) down on the front shaft while slipping ONLY the front case upwards. Now be very careful, the back will try to separate too but unless you want to fiddle around with the brushes, keep that from happening.
I've done this many, many times, usually clocking the alternators on mid-80's GM cars but it work well on these early Ford alternators too. Hope it helps somebody in their detailing efforts.
Richard
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Thank you everyone and for the Links. I already have it disassembled with the intent to restore it, hence the question about how to reproduce the finish.
I found some NOS Brushes and NOS Bearings, both front and rear and discovered that mixing Medium Ground Glass with Aluminum Oxide, in equal parts, at 70-80psi, perfectly restores the finish of the Casing Halves; tried it on a broken Case first. Soda Blasting was recommended but I was disappointed with the results; had a tendency to give the Aluminum somewhat of a polished appearance.
So far I've resurfaced the Slip Rings and cleaned the heavy grime off of the Casing. Once I have the Varnish, I'll continue with the restoration.
Thanks again
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The varnish is very volatile as it has to set quickly so be careful with any open flame or heat source. Used the varnish years back making components for sonar equipment.
Jim
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The varnish is very volatile as it has to set quickly so be careful with any open flame or heat source. Used the varnish years back making components for sonar equipment.
Jim
Thanks for the warning...I'm all too familiar with the flash point of these products having both finished furniture and built model airplanes. I won't even work with the stuff if I have so much as the slightest hint of a fever.
Ray