ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Processes, Products & Techniques => Topic started by: wunderwerks on December 17, 2015, 10:41:37 PM
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I had one that had four small cracks and a piece missing. I blasted it clean, cut and shaped heavy steel tin to reinforce a couple of the cracks and the missing section and then used JB Weld to put it together. After it dried I used a Dremel grinder to shape everything visible from the back side as close to factory appearance as possible. I sold it at a swap meet unpainted for $80 and the guy that bought it thought he made the buy of the century. Don't know if this is the professional expert fix for these extensions but this method has worked for me on my own cars and has held for years.
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Thanks, I was thinking JBWeld for the cracked pieces, but I like the added reinforcement. Gives me more confidence when I fix this one up.
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http://muggyweld.com/pot-metal-headlight-bucket-repair (http://muggyweld.com/pot-metal-headlight-bucket-repair)
Be sure to check out the many videos of pot metal repair on their site.
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Has anyone tried this on pot metal using the Muggy Weld solder? What was your experience?
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Has anyone tried this on pot metal using the Muggy Weld solder? What was your experience?
Sitting on the edge of my seat: :o
My interests are different than how the thread is running, but seriously interested in the results! I have my original 67's that need some help, I have another replacement set that are not #'s matching...I'm willing to try this if it works out as good as the link images indicate.
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Has anyone tried this on pot metal using the Muggy Weld solder? What was your experience?
I haven't tried it myself (yet - I plan to next spring), but I have watched demos in person and the results were exactly as shown in the videos on their site.
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That Muggy weld looks very interesting. If anyone here trys it, please post!
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Split the topic off, easier to discuss and search going forward.
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I'm a believer!
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Realizing that my example isn't a 64.5 Mustang headlight housing but the principles are the same...this Muggy Weld REALLY WORKS!!!
Much like soldering, you need a low heat and just watch the videos online to get a little reassurance before you tackle it. I would suggest starting on a project that does not require perfection, for me it was a crack on a rear fender extension. This gave me a little practice to go ahead and try the bigger repair...that repair is the one pictured here. (and a few more shots posted earlier in this thread) You can see the broken out, missing area below the headlight housing where the valance attaches (with a J-clip). I simply filled the whole area using wood as a backer, then I flipped everything over and did the same thing on the other side. Some of the pictures I previously posted in this thread, demonstrate a little bit of what I am talking about. "Black (burned) Flux" is NOT what you "want to see" as a few of my shots show...Root Beer Brown is best ;)
I would say this stuff, structurally speaking, is stronger than the pot metal itself. When sanding it into shape, you will notice it is a bit "harder" than the pot metal. This essentially translates as (IMHO) a much stronger repair than any other product anybody has mentioned so far for doing such repairs. I would say for the 64 .5 cars, all of the issues that are notorious with them, would easily be tackled by using this product.
All you need is a little practice. If you find yourself struggling with getting the job you want, go back and watch more of the MuggyWeld videos, There are many to watch. I am pretty sure that one of them will show you what you might be doing wrong if you are having such troubles.
For the pot metal repairs you only have to buy the "Alloy 1" product. I bought the "MuggyWeld Combo 4" but have not tried the "Alloy 5" yet.