ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Processes, Products & Techniques => Topic started by: C5ZZKGT on January 07, 2013, 03:29:37 AM
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In reading about this companion product to Boesheild would this be the best thing to use on some small areas that are on an assembled car to remove flash rust? followed, of course by Boesheild?
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It will help protect bare steel and other natural parts, but surface preparation is important. Need to try and remove as much moisture as possible from the surface. This can be done with a heat gun.
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Gotcha, Thanks Charles!
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Guys, Evedentally the RUST FREE stuff is harder to find than I thought. I found some at Sears locally and by the time I got there someone else bought the last they had.
Is there anything else I can use in its place to remove some flash rust from chassis parts already installed on the car?
I've got plenty of Boesheild itself, trying to get my car ready for a show this weekend.
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I haven't tried it myself, but apparently Evapo Rust can be sprayed onto large parts (like the chassis - http://www.evaporust.com/chassis.html) to remove rust, so I assume you could probably do something similar for parts that are still on the car - taking precautions to limit the amount overspray of course...
I can usually find Evapo Rust in stock at the local Harbor Freight store...
Good Luck!
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According to the label on evaporust containers, you can dip the parts back into the solution after they have been cleaned and it will leave a protective coating. Unfortunately, evaporust is very sticky when it dries, so I would not recommend doing this as a finish coat.
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I haven't tried it myself, but apparently Evapo Rust can be sprayed onto large parts (like the chassis - http://www.evaporust.com/chassis.html) to remove rust, so I assume you could probably do something similar for parts that are still on the car - taking precautions to limit the amount overspray of course...
I can usually find Evapo Rust in stock at the local Harbor Freight store...
Harbor freight is great but (at least in this region) they raised their prices on Evapo Rust by about 30% ($28-29 a gal) from where it was last year. Mought some today from Tractor Supply locally at $21. Guess I could always order and ship a 5 gal order ;)
As for on the car spots some have found success with wetting a rag with the stuff and draping it over the effected area and let it set. Works fine as long as its not a hot summer day
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The Rust Free product is in the NPD catalog, FYI.
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Thanks Everyone. It has also been suggested to me to use something like PB Blaster/Liquid wrench.....everyone fels that WD-40 is not good for this type of cleaning that I'm trying to do....
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Thanks Everyone. It has also been suggested to me to use something like PB Blaster/Liquid wrench.....everyone fels that WD-40 is not good for this type of cleaning that I'm trying to do....
Depending on what parts have flash-rusted, you can use pb-blaster or something like that with some 0000 steel wool. If that doesn't work, as Jeff suggested, dip a rag in evaporust, wrap around the parts and then wrap saran wrap around the rag to keep everything wet. Let it sit for a few hours and check. Rinse with water, dry and then use a protectant to seal it up.
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I used this technique on a NOS exhaust on the curved parts that I couldn't submerge and it worked great. I had much better results with this method (wrapping) with fresh solution.
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Just a quick addition to this thread. I removed surface rust from the axle housing on my 06 Hertz (not removed from car).... Evaporust soaked rags covered by Saran wrap left overnight, then sprayed with Boeshield...worked great. (Thanks Jake Jarell)
Fred
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Thanks for the great tip. (evaporust rags & saran wrap). Opens up many more options for use.
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I've even used a small waterfall pump and a tub to flow the stuff over the surface (in this case the inner fender panel and the lapped and spot welded edges) for a continuous flow on the Boss
Problem was the results of a cooked battery from a bad voltage regulator :(
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Now I'm thinking about maybe setting up a seperate "Evaporust parts cleaner w/pump" (Tractor Supply) & filling it with Evaporust instead of solvent. What doesn't "dunk", will get it by pump. I imagine a person could, using the same tub, (I like this set up because of the lid) set the pump up feeding it through a drain hole instead of the filter inlet that comes on those parts solvent tanks...just an idea. Maybe could get by with only a few gallons instead of 5-10 gallons.
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Not sure if the product works better when allowed to sit still and react with the surface problem or flowing would hel pr lengthen the process time
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I have a friend that has been using KRUD KUTTER MR32 The Must For Rust, 32-Ounce Trigger Spray . It removes flash rust & leaves a protective coating. It is sold through Amazon. Going to order & try myself.