Topic: 68 Brake Distribution Block Rebuild

[Sunlitgold68]

What does "rebuilding" the brake distribution block consist of? This would be for a manual 4 wheel drum brake Mustang.

[CharlesTurner]

Basically just consists of disassembling, cleaning and inspecting the internal parts and doing a cosmetic restoration of the outer surfaces.

[Sunlitgold68]

Disassembling a standard drum one like mine would consist of unscrewing the front nut looking part and something inside comes out? Not sure about this, I know there's a plastic switch or something on top that comes off easily. Maybe I can just clean it up and Pete can do the internal part?

[T Lea]

Never done a drum brake one but the disc ones involve o rings and cleaning with brass gun brushes. Here a link that shows whats in the disc one, keep scrolling down and you should get an idea

http://www.cougarpartscatalog.com/propvlvkit.html

[sah62]

I've got rebuild instructions posted here:

http://www.musclecarresearch.com/valve-rebuild-wagner-drum

I also sell the rebuild kit if you need one:

http://www.musclecarresearch.com/valve-kit-wagner-drum

I haven't yet confirmed that my kit will work for a 1968 valve, but I'm reasonably certain that it will.  If you can measure the diameter of the piston in the two places where the seals fit (you'll need a caliper) you can confirm if my kit will work or not.  The measurements are included on the page the describes the kit.

[Sunlitgold68]

Thanks for the article, I took mine apart last night, looks exactly like the one pictured. I found the C8ZA number but the word "wagner" was not present on mine.

[sah62]

I found the C8ZA number but the word "wagner" was not present on mine.

Did you see a "W" with an arrow through it?  I'm pretty sure that's a Wagner logo.

[Sunlitgold68]

I'll look closer for the "W" and arrow..... it's soaking in ammonia right now.

I didn't remove the internal part, does it just pull out and push back in?

Charles said to just inspect the inside parts, maybe I don't need a rebuild kit?

[sah62]

Yes, the piston can be pulled out and pushed back in. Pulling it out might be hard if the insides are cruddy, but needle nose pliers will usually do the trick.

If it wasn't leaking from the port for the electrical switch your seals were probably OK prior to being soaked.  I don't know if that'll be the case after exposure to ammonia, but if you've got it out it just seems like a good preventive maintenance idea to replace 40+ year old rubber seals with new ones because they shrink over time.  I'd get a rebuild kit, but that's just me and I'm biased.

[sah62]

Did you see a "W" with an arrow through it?  I'm pretty sure that's a Wagner logo.

Correction - that's a Weatherhead logo.

[chockostang]

Correction - that's a Weatherhead logo.

Right.

The shuttle in the block can be a bit onry to remove.  Diligence, time, you'll get the shuttle out.

Clean throughly,  Hone the bore with rolled up 180 paper.

Reassemble with Scotts parts,  all will be well.

Dan @ Chockostang