Topic: Alternator Ink Stamp Discussion

[J_Speegle]

Prices are pretty healthy also if you consider the shipping also

[66TotalPerf]

I built a '66 GT350 clone so my understanding is that I'm looking for an Autolite stamp with C6AF-10300-D; however, I'd be willing to settle for any stamp/decal that's correct in appearance and begins with C6AF-10300. The last letter designating which engine doesn't matter as much to me.

[J_Speegle]

Since your not concerned about being original nor correct looks like the close enough ebay one will meet your expectations.

[66TotalPerf]

I do care about the appearance of the stamp as that's the most noticeable aspect. I'd like to find the most accurate '66 alternator stamp I can, including the last letter. However, I was trying to be as open as I could to see what options I had. So I'll pickup the eBay stamp if that's all that's available but if anyone has the stamp with the correct font/design as the original, I'd love to buy/borrow it from you.

Thanks!
Brent

[66TotalPerf]

I made this comparison picture. The top photo is the stamp commonly being sold on eBay whereas the bottom picture is from DeadNutsOn. The differences side-by-side are very noticeable.

[J_Speegle]

I do care about the appearance of the stamp as that's the most noticeable aspect. I'd like to find the most accurate '66 alternator stamp I can, including the last letter. However, I was trying to be as open as I could to see what options I had. So I'll pickup the eBay stamp if that's all that's available but if anyone has the stamp with the correct font/design as the original, I'd love to buy/borrow it from you.

You mentioned that you had a "modern"  alternator. If the case (front or back half) are different from original I would think those are nor noticeable than the stamp since it was typically applied to the bottom out of view

[66TotalPerf]

I should've been more specific. I have a correct appearing '66 alternator but with modern internal components.

Any chance anyone could recommend the proper paint/ink to match the original stamping color? Thanks again!

[66TotalPerf]

You mentioned that you had a "modern"  alternator. If the case (front or back half) are different from original I would think those are nor noticeable than the stamp since it was typically applied to the bottom out of view

Just to clarify, are the stampings DeadNutsOn uses correct? Because their alternators appear to have two Autolite stamps, which make it very visible from above.

[J_Speegle]

IMHO dual stamping was an oddity found on a few originals. I think that often owners want to show off and since they are spending allot of money to have one restored and stamped they want others to see the stamping. I've never stamped or had stamped on on the top since since it just has not matched with all the originals I've seen and have pictures of so I go with one stamp only - on the bottom of the back case. I've never found one with a double stamp though I have been shown a picture once.

My school of thought is that if you can document an oddity or non-typical detail on your car then you may choose to reproduce it. If your car didn't or you have no documentation of the detail,  then it is best for you and the hobby to reproduce what was typically practiced for cars like yours since repeating oddities make them appear more predominate than they were

Have used a Kryon spray paint product but can't recall the specific color this moment or have a can on the shelf to get the color or code from

[CharlesTurner]

+1 on double stamp.  Even if I have one rebuilt and it comes with the stamp on top, I wipe it off with lacquer thinner.

[Bob Gaines]

IMHO dual stamping was an oddity found on a few originals. I think that often owners want to show off and since they are spending allot of money to have one restored and stamped they want others to see the stamping. I've never stamped or had stamped on on the top since since it just has not matched with all the originals I've seen and have pictures of so I go with one stamp only - on the bottom of the back case. I've never found one with a double stamp though I have been shown a picture once.

My school of thought is that if you can document an oddity or non-typical detail on your car then you may choose to reproduce it. If your car didn't or you have no documentation of the detail,  then it is best for you and the hobby to reproduce what was typically practiced for cars like yours since repeating oddities make them appear more predominate than they were

Have used a Kryon spray paint product but can't recall the specific color this moment or have a can on the shelf to get the color or code from

Safety orange works well.

[Ralf]

1967 Alternator.

- was only ink stamped (different colour depending version)?
(in my case red and 42 or 55, AC and power steering)
- ink stamped AND engineering number casted?

Thank you for clarification.

[J_Speegle]

1967 Alternator.

- was only ink stamped (different colour depending version)?
(in my case red and 42 or 55, AC and power steering)
- ink stamped AND engineering number casted?

Ink stamp was the only form of identification for the application in 67.  The aluminum halves may have had casting numbers that identified the maker and the mold numbers but those don't help identify the application.

[Ralf]

Thx Jeff.

Is there an inked stamped date code been used that time as well?

[J_Speegle]

Is there an inked stamped date code been used that time as well?

Have seen them stamped with one or even two different date stamps during 67 and 68 production. One on the c and one on the rear case during this period. Ink is a dark color for both

Often an inspector or assemblers mark is also found

Going to separate this last few post to a new thread