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1964 1/2 - 1965 / Re: Found my original fender Emblem-Differences vs NOS (Pictures)

« Last post by Bob Gaines on Today at 02:40:12 AM »

I?ve seen some used C4 versions on EBAY but no NOS ones.

If I picked up used and they?re not pitted, can they be rechromed without losing the subtle details?

I?m not familiar with the rechrome process (obviously).

NOS C4 thin pin ones come up for sale from time to time on ebay. If one isn't on there now then I suppose you will just have to wait until one shows up if you want NOS C4 emblems. To recap with a short answer to what I already have previously posted is that you will not get good results rechroming the emblem. Unless you can find a used emblem good enough to use as is with the exception of having to repaint (which is difficult ) don't buy used.   

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1970 Mustang / 1970 Mach 1 with white hood, shaker and decklid stripes.

« Last post by HDAshmore on Today at 01:29:06 AM »

Team,

Good evening.  What is the paint code and texture for 1970 Mach 1s with the white hood stripes, shaker and rear panel white markings?  Is there a paint code?  Is it textured like the black or what sheen?

Thanks Dan in Kansas

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1970 Mustang / Re: What is the correct paint for Mach 1 rocker moundings?

« Last post by J_Speegle on May 11, 2024, 10:29:13 PM »

A good IMHO way to compare or comment on how dark a Charcoal may be would be to compare the color to the interior "black"/dark charcoal metallic since that is a fairly standard color. Just a thought. 

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1964 1/2 - 1965 / Re: Found my original fender Emblem-Differences vs NOS (Pictures)

« Last post by RoyceP on May 11, 2024, 08:49:42 PM »

The problem with re - chroming is the factory used a special die when chroming the emblems that the re - chromers do not have. As a result re - chroming the emblem will not be satisfactory.   

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1964 1/2 - 1965 / Re: Found my original fender Emblem-Differences vs NOS (Pictures)

« Last post by jtfx6552 on May 11, 2024, 07:42:59 PM »

From your picture one is a C4 assemblyline part with the thin pins and the other a C8 service part with the thicker pins.They are two different parts. The NOS service C4 marked emblems and the assemblyline versions are the same part with the same definition typically. The C8 marked service part is a completely different part ,mold etc.  First off it will be expensive to have rechromed .I'm guessing 200-300.00 for the emblem. The pins will be very a problematic effort to fix. You can find used C4 emblems with pins intact but then you still have the re chrome price to contend with.
 On top of that when chrome plating old diecast many times but not always pits bubble up to the surface as a result of the process and you would be stuck with a less then perfect part at the end of the day. That is besides losing definition from the polishing process prior to plating.  NOS C4 versions are still out there and command 250-400.00 price tag each. I thought I would give you some observations for you to consider .

I?ve seen some used C4 versions on EBAY but no NOS ones.

If I picked up used and they?re not pitted, can they be rechromed without losing the subtle details?

I?m not familiar with the rechrome process (obviously).

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1970 Mustang / Re: Still looking for correct textured hood stripe paint for ?70 Mach 1

« Last post by ExportMach on May 11, 2024, 06:29:33 PM »

I am getting ready to have my hood repainted. I have the stencil for it, but I am having trouble finding the correct, textured matte black paint to do the hood stripes. Thanks

I puchased 1 quart of textured low gloss black from TCP Global in 2021, cost $97 but the end result is fantastic. Instructions say to apply two wet coats. I used the stencil too.

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1970 Mustang / Re: What is the correct paint for Mach 1 rocker moundings?

« Last post by ExportMach on May 11, 2024, 06:23:39 PM »

Recently, I bought some paint from NPD. It is a very dark charcoal grey that is almost black. The color of my rocker molding is a much lighter gray. Could someone give me an indication of which one is right, or where I might find the right shade of grey?

Recently I purchased and used the paint from NPD and it closely matched the OE paint on my OE rocker trim panels. It was dark charcoal but by no means was it almost black.

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1966 Mustang / Re: Differential ID 1966 K code.

« Last post by RoyceP on May 11, 2024, 05:50:40 PM »

Typically on a 55 + year old car the differential is shot. At a minimum you usually have to replace all the bearings and clutches. Not everyone knows that you must also use Ford Friction Modifier with the conventional oil - do not use synthetic gear oil or the clutches will be toast.


If you are lucky the differential can be saved using the above but often the differential is cracked, gears are worn etc. Have someone rebuild it properly and you will not have to worry about it in the future. New axle bearings and gaskets are needed too.

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1966 Mustang / Re: Fastback Rear Folding Seat

« Last post by jwc66k on May 11, 2024, 04:52:07 PM »

the other side of my rear panel does have the triangular cutouts for the 2 Catch plates. Additionally, I have everything stripped off the units as I plan to paint and install new carpet; I only installed the chrome trim to confirm screw holes match.

That last photo solves a lot (yes boys and girls, it is two words) of problems and questions.
Locate the rear panel retainer first (view DD, item C, C5ZB-63115A60) and get it installed. Make sure screws "D" and "K" (view DD) work
The location of the front holes are, measured with chrome installed (I'm not removing my chrome to measure):
From the side edge - 3 inches; from the front edge - 2 3/4 inches (a sanity check - 10 3/4 from the rear curve in edge). I would use a 1/4 inch dia bit. It looks like you have about 1/4 inch "play" with the washer to cover the hole. The carpet will help.
Back to your reply #2, view FF. Note the welded in "bracket" that the screw, item "B", goes into. You probably need to dill a pilot hole for the 10-24 X 1 1/2 tapping screw into "that bracket". Put a piece of masking tape over "that bracket", both sides. To get the location of the "tap", the rear panel has a 3/8 inch gap between it an the rear folding section in front of it. Cut a couple of pieces of wood 3/8 inch thick (an inch wide, 3 - 4 inches tall) and stick one on each end of the panel to maintain the "gap". Tape them in if necessary. Center the rear panel between the real quarter panels, and align it also with the rear folding section sides. Position the panel as described above and use a "working" ball point pen REFILL (it has a small enough diameter to go thru the hole to mark the location of the hole. Remove the rear panel; use a center pinch to get the "drill spot", drill and tap. Use a no25 drill, 0.149in, and definitely thread the holes with a 10/24 tap. You may have to put some blocks of wood under "that bracket" to keep it flat.
See if it fit. Hoist a beer if it does.
Jim
I added some pictures.
1. The bumper (2 req'd) in the front edge of the folding curved section.
2. The side "thingie" (I didn't remember this guide/bumper at all on my Fastback, but there it is).
3. The rear of the Fastback with everything removed.
4. The upper piece of chrome was very pitted, so I bought a replacement set from NPD. The parts in the replacement set were a lot (see above) nicer but they did "feel thinner". It was about half the cost of getting the original pieces re-chromed, and it is impossible (without a major machine shop at your disposal) to disassemble the long hinge.
5. Same as 4.

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1966 Mustang / Re: Differential ID 1966 K code.

« Last post by Bob Gaines on May 11, 2024, 03:06:09 PM »

Easiest way to ID limited slip on the bench is from Jeff's left 2 photos, the limited slip units have the bolt heads recessed into the casting. However, with the unit removed, wouldn't be a bad idea to at least test breakaway torque and if low replace clutch packs.

-Brent

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