ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Drivetrain => Topic started by: Rocket80501 on July 05, 2019, 12:23:53 PM
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Hi Everyone. I had to replace my ignition switchi because the motor kept running after turning the key off. After I finally got the switch in , and all together, I'm sure I started it, and it ran properly. Then, I put the instrument cluster back in, and got everything back together, and it would crank, but not start. I took my tach out of the circuit, and same problem. I checked, and there is 12 volts to Batt. side of coil. If anyone has suggestions, I would really appreciate them. Ron
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Guess that you got the one issue addressed now you have another :(
If I recall correctly checking in on the last thread your car was running prior to this - would not shut off was the problem
So basics.
1 - When the starter is engaged you have power to "I" post at the solenoid?
2- Do you have spark from the coil wire?
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Classic Case of a Garbage brand Starter solenoid... (Where the Motor keeps running when the car is shut off, or the ignition key is removed)..
Replace the starter solenoid with a Motorcraft, Standard Motor Parts or NOS or Used OEM Ford solenoid and the problem will magically "Disappear"...
By the way, Borg Warner and Repro Solenoids are Garbage too....and are not to be used...
Though really well made Solenoids are getting harder to find these days...
This D2xxxx (1972) type NOS Motorcraft Solenoid from NPD should solve his problem nicely...
https://www.npdlink.com/product/starter-solenoid-motorcraft-exact-replacement-prior-to-about/101233?backurl=search%2Fproducts%3Fsearch_terms%3Dsolenoid%26top_parent%3D1%26year%3D
:o)
Tony K.
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Since you replaced the switch and it started and turned off as expected then only didn't work after your reassembled everything sure sounds like you knocked something loose.
Just thinking out loud - I'm sure you have retraced al the wires, double checked all connections before you posted.
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Yes, I checked all the connections, and even took the tach out of the circuit with the same results. I have 12 volts at the coil both with the key in run, and start. I think my next move is to replace the whole distributor with a new one, and see what happens. The distributor in it now has a Pertronix module in it and the new one is a stock dual point Hipo distributor. Ron
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So you are not receiving a signal and in turn a spark from the coil? Are you using a stock factory coil?
Have had issues with the Pertronix stuff, sometimes they work, then don't work and back and forth
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I have had Pertronix just suddenly quit for no apparent reason. There are troubleshooting methods on the web. https://itstillruns.com/do-test-pertronix-ignition-7993715.html The critical test is looking at the black module to coil (Dist. post) wire while cranking engine - it should switch between battery voltage and zero volts. A constant voltage means it is bad.
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I've had zero luck with Petronix or Mallory.
I think I have the only working Mallory 6A within 25 miles and I have it so I can lend to others who want to test if/when their Mallory box has failed.
I also have a new Mallory Unilite systems still in the box. It will stay in the box. Stranded too many times by those.
Also a fairly new Petronix sitting on the shelf, replaced by points for the same reason.
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I've had zero luck with Petronix -
I've had a Pertronix I in my 66 Hardtop "A" code for well over ten years. It solved a engine dying problem when making a quick turn, aka corners, when the points were in the same distributor (C5GF-12127-A).
You need to make a sacrifice to the right deity -
Jim 8)
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I had Petronix in a 68 fastback that we drove for 38K miles and never had a issue with it.
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I had Petronix in a 68 fastback that we drove for 38K miles and never had a issue with it.
Nothing electronic is bulletproof...everything remains suspect.
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Nothing electronic is bulletproof...everything remains suspect.
The same concept applies to points. The Ford recommended checking of points was every 12,000 miles. Yes, points were reliable, but electronic ignitions have been show to last significantly longer.
Jim
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Before tearing everything apart, have you checked to see if the coil and/or a plug wire is throwing a spark? Jeff asked this in 2nd post but I didn’t see a response.
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Before tearing everything apart, have you checked to see if the coil and/or a plug wire is throwing a spark? Jeff asked this in 2nd post but I didn’t see a response.
I agree. Basics, "start" with the basics...
I am firing up an old dune buggy V.W. Beetle engine that similarly, had been running just fine then Parked for the winter and now will not.
Following the road of basics, establishing a good spark first in this cobbled up wiring mess on this Hill-Jack rendition...I discovered gasoline was getting INTO the carb but not pulling it through the jets (it would fire and die when primed but run as long as I fead it fuel).
The carb is off now and we will take it the rest of the way apart when the carb kit shows up this morning and a backup plan (replacement carb) is available in only a few hours after any failure to repair this non-original contraption.
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I'm having very similar issues as the original post describes. I've been going through it in a different order with the parts involved so far. I'm down to the ignition switch, which I have a new one in supply, and the Pertronix, which I do not. The Pertronix has been in there for at least 15 years and have loved it. What are the symptoms of a Pertronix failure?
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................. What are the symptoms of a Pertronix failure?
For me failure "Car doesn't start" :(
Had another when the car would start back firing after 20 minutes of running. Both were solved by replacing with points
Last attempt was - car starts when cold - would not start a second time after than
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I'll replace the ignition switch because I have on hand, and because it's pretty easy, but I might try putting the points, condenser and rotor back in there and see what happens. Why not, right? Maybe I'll like that better than I remember!
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Got dist. with Pertronix in it, and no start. Trying to put the one with points back in it. Not having any luck getting the oil pump shaft to start into the bottom of the dist. Easy to get down to engage the cam gear and dist. gear, but won't go down further. Ron
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Got dist. with Pertronix in it, and no start. Trying to put the one with points back in it. Not having any luck getting the oil pump shaft to start into the bottom of the dist. Easy to get down to engage the cam gear and dist. gear, but won't go down further. Ron
use a oil pump priming tool to turn the oil pump drive so that it is indexed the same as the bottom of your distributor . Here is one on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/OIL-PUMP-PRIMER-TOOL-1-4-Hex-FORD-Engine-289-302-390-428/372639484467
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Another option is to put some grease down the hole to center the shaft. Shine a light down there to see if the shaft is laying to one side.
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The bottom of the distributor shaft is countersunk so a oil pump shaft to one side or the other in the hole usually gets moved more to the center as the distributor shaft comes down and makes contact. With that said sometimes a tapping with a brass hammer on the top of the distributor shaft will bump the pump shaft towards the center and successfully indexed in the bottom of the distributor shaft. This process is done in conjunction with slightly turning the oil pump shaft with the primer tool or equivalent if it doesn't go in after a few taps. It is not always this much of a pain but sometimes is. That is why (for those reading )I don't remove the distributor unless I have no alternative.
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Just wanted to let everyone know that I finally got the distributor back in the Shelby, and it's running again. Thanks to everyone for the kind words, and support. Ron