ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Interior & Trunk => Topic started by: 68 S Code on June 14, 2011, 12:47:55 AM
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I've purchased a new divider board but then stumbled upon the original. I'm kind of leaning towards using the original because it has a nice curve to it and a lip which is bent correctly to mount it. Kind of beat up finish wise but I'm thinking paint can make it look new again. The repop is flat like glass. No mounting lip bend. What do you guys recommend?
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The ones Jack was making were perfect but it sounds like he may have supplier issues? Don't forget the felt pad
http://www.deadnutson.com/catalog/item/3902236/5276771.htm
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Felt pad? Tim Are you referring to the pad on top of the wheel house? That is the only pad I remember but it was jute material.
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I'm sorry, I meant jute. There is a pad that is made of the same material thats glued to the top of the divider board about 1 1/4" x 4"
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Hmmmm I don't remember that but I will look for signs of glue on the original. Would that be on the trunk side or the well side?
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Does it attach to the lip of the upper gutter? FAM shows clips, never been able to verify if they were used or not, and if so what they looked like. Number not listed in the AMK guide to Ford fasteners...
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Read OZ's question so I went out in the garage to see if there was any sign of fasteners on the top. Nothing. Checked to see if there was any left over glue or traces of jute at the top like Tim mentioned. Nothing. Then I went to the Dead Nuts link to verify something. In the pic he shows that the bent lip at the bottom mounts facing into the trunk. Well if I did that then the visible side in the trunk would be brown board and the black would face in towards the well. Then i looked at the finish on the black and outside of two horizontal lines where the paint came off its not too bad. The lip has indentations from the screw heads at the two screw holes at each end. On one side it almost looks like something black got sprayed. Similar to what was sprayed at the corners of the trunk near the wheelhouse. I'd say its asphalt based but dry at this point. So does the black side face out into the trunk? If so then the screws need to be installed from the interior. Is that possible if the well is in place? Or does the brown side face in towards the trunk making install easy? Either way this is not what appears on the link. The repop I have is black both sides and looks like it will be difficult to make it look original. Anyone recall seeing the brown side facing into the trunk? I'll try taking a pic tomorrow to post.
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Below are three pics. Note that the black side is convex and the brown is concave. That may help determining what side faced into the trunk. The third pic is of the coating sprayed at one corner. If I was to clean and repaint this what paint would you suggest? There is a almost wax like finish on the brown side. I think that was to repel water.
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That black side of your piece should face the trunk. I have seen where the screws get installed from the interior side of the board also.
I'd re-use the original piece if it can be touched up and look ok.
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That black side of your piece should face the trunk. I have seen where the screws get installed from the interior side of the board also.
I'd re-use the original piece if it can be touched up and look ok.
+1 +1. The waxed looking side is water resistant as has been speculated. Also I have seen the board installed directly over the trunk mat and others where the trunk mat has been trimmed back just to the edge of the divider. Just from my own observations I have seen close to equal amounts installed ether way on NJ cars . I don't have a wide experience with other plants. Bob
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In a pinch you have to prime and seal the trunkside of the repro board good so the black paint doesn't soak up. I use a gloss black krylon paint but it dulls down some when applied. Bob
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I just painted my repo and used about 10 light coats of semi gloss before it stopped soaking in.
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I'll try reusing the original after a little clean up and paint. If it doesn't look presentable I can always go repop. Before spending to much time I will have to see how to mount it. Top and well just got installed 2 weeks ago.
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+1 +1. The waxed looking side is water resistant as has been speculated. Also I have seen the board installed directly over the trunk mat and others where the trunk mat has been trimmed back just to the edge of the divider. Just from my own observations I have seen close to equal amounts installed ether way on NJ cars . I don't have a wide experience with other plants. Bob
Here's an example of a Dearborn car. Screws on the interior side, trunk mat trimmed back.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rjyEpL5lpCI/TflpswhH-wI/AAAAAAAADAY/9RE_0tCR2Gs/s640/2011-06-15_8.JPG)
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Thanks for the pic. Interesting side note in that my car has the rubber guard for the torsion bar on the forward rod. A 67 Dearborn car I saw two weeks ago had it that way as well. Your car has it opposite. Did they come both ways? I found out the hard way that the rods are side specific. If installed backwards they do nothing. What tipped me off was the rubber strip. Now installed correctly works fine.
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Ok I've got it cleaned up and the finish seems to be more flat than semi-gloss. I would say 90% is flat black with maybe 10% made up of splotches or streaks kind of semigloss. So do I paint it flat or semigloss? Kind of rough to leave it as is. See pics posted earlier.
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Don't think a 40 year old surface that has seen cleaning products might be the best indicator of the original shine ;)
Just a thought
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So I guess thats why I am asking. I guess with it being locked up in the trunk while the car was on the road it would have pretty much kept its original finish pretty well. Its been stored in the attic of a garage for 25 years with no direct sunlight on it and in my garage for the past month. I would guess that the flat finish which is on the majority would be pretty representative of what it was but the limited areas with a shinier finish have my questioning it.
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Sorry I took from your description that you might have used cleaning products on the surface. I would say that finishes can oxidize even in protected storage but I can not explain how a surface could get glossier over time just sitting. Unless there was something made of fabric that could rub or vibrate on that spot. So I would go with the glossier of the finishes found being closer to the original finish
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Jeff I first wiped off the years of dust with straight water. Then sprayed some simple green and scrubbed with a soft bristle brush and then wiped it down. Surprisingly not glossy where spare tire would have been. More glossier spot areas on drivers side. Tried sanding a small area with 400 grit fine paper very lightly. The flat looking paint still flat. I too thought about something rubbing caused the shinier spots.