ConcoursMustang Forums
General Discussion => General Discussion => Topic started by: Angela on November 13, 2014, 03:11:46 PM
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I need to move one of my prized cars from southern MN to Syracuse NY. My plan was to purchase an enclosed trailer, rent a moving truck and tow my car in the enclosed trailer. Today, however, I learned that it appears Uhaul, Penske and perhaps all moving truck companies will not allow you to tow your own trailer using their truck. Further, even if they did allow it, their trucks do not have brake controllers for electric trailer brakes. I am looking for some advice concerning this situation.
(1) Had anyone been able to tow their enclosed trailer with a rented moving truck and if so, which company did you use?
(2) Can anyone comment on transport companies? I could pay someone to move my mustang, but this makes me VERY nervous. I fear I'll never see the car again. I received a quote from Passport Auto Transport and am wondering if anyone has used them (they're listed on Hagerty's website).
(3) Is anyone aware of honest, reliable transport people who move just one car at a time, in enclosed trailers?
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Have rented Expeditions in the past with towing package that worked fine pulling a 20-24ft enclosed trailer. Technically not supposed to do it, but might be a risk you're willing to take instead of spending big $$ having it moved.
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Response to your questions:
1) I have not found a rental agency that would allow for this.
2) I had 2 cars moved with a work relocation by Passport Transport from Northern IL to West TN. 1 was a non running but rolling car the other was my brand new Grand Cherokee. Both arrived without problems.
3) I do have a party that transported my just completed 72 Mach 1 and my friends original owner 30K mile Boss 302 to Charlotte in April. He has a 2 car trailer that he utilizes to transport high end exotics. He is higher than most would quote you, but I would 100% vouch for his care and attention to our prized possessions.
My only advice is that you definitly get what you pay for in the car transport industry. If you are looking for the lowest quote I would expect the lowest service and attention. Factor in the thousands of dollars you have invested in the car and all of your time and personal investment in the car and then decide if a $600 quote is more appealing than a $1000 quote. It is an important decision to make.
If you would like a referral on a broker I know of or a transporter I would recommend without a question. PM me
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Here is a thought, look for enclosed trailer rentals and see if they would include the tow vehicle.
For transport companies, keep in mind the more flexible the date, the more flexible pricing.
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My late cousin drove for North American VanLines. For awhile he was transporting exotics and special interest cars from the auctions to their new owners. He received hours of training to do this. He had to wear a special coverall, gloves and shoe covers while moving vehicles. Not sure if they still offer the service.
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Have rented Expeditions in the past with towing package that worked fine pulling a 20-24ft enclosed trailer. Technically not supposed to do it, but might be a risk you're willing to take instead of spending big $$ having it moved.
Charles, where on earth did you find a place to rent an expedition? Does Hertz actually rent them with the towing package installed, with electric brake controllers?
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Charles, where on earth did you find a place to rent an expedition? Does Hertz actually rent them with the towing package installed, with electric brake controllers?
Yep, some of the regular rental companies have them.
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I've used Reliable Carriers a few times--EXCELLENT service and drivers that "get it" when it comes to vintage and classic cars.
http://www.reliablecarriers.com/
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Thanks for the comments on "Reliable Transport". I now have seen three positive comments on that company. They are, however, by far the most expensive of the four companies listed on Hagerty's website. I wouldn't want to use the cheapest place, but Reliable is far and away the most expensive. Additionally, it makes me sick to think of allowing someone I don't know to haul away with a car I've been working on for more than a decade. How on earth do I know for sure I'll ever see it again? Further, my car is a 390.... ever try to work with a 390? They aren't exactly a "turn key" engine..... one kinda needs to know how to start it and work with it..... I wonder how in the world a transport company gets her loaded without issue.
I might have found a uhaul place that allows their trucks to tow a trailer they did not provide. It's still not clear to me, however, if their trucks will control a trailer's electric brakes, even though their trucks do have the 7-pin connector. I was told the trailers uhaul rents use surge brakes, thus they wouldn't need to have wired a brake controller. Is a brake controller needed?
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I've used Reliable Carriers a few times--EXCELLENT service and drivers that "get it" when it comes to vintage and classic cars.
http://www.reliablecarriers.com/
+1 on Reliable Carriers. I have used them twice to transport my '65 coupe and have been thoroughly satisfied w/ them, no incidents.
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I might have found a uhaul place that allows their trucks to tow a trailer they did not provide. It's still not clear to me, however, if their trucks will control a trailer's electric brakes, even though their trucks do have the 7-pin connector. I was told the trailers uhaul rents use surge brakes, thus they wouldn't need to have wired a brake controller. Is a brake controller needed?
The U-haul trailers I have seen and used are open trailers. They do not require a brake controller. Actually, the brake controller is not a big deal to install on the Ford the unit plugs in with an adapter (provided by Ford).
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My dad has used Intercity Lines to transport his Mustang from California to Texas. He had his 66 Hertz transported from Cali to TX and then my car was transported from his house in TX to my house here in AZ. Very reliable and take care of the cars. When mine arrived there were 2 Porsche Carrera GT's on the top row and a Formula F1 car and then my car was on the bottom in front of a 67-69 Camaro. I would use them again...
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Angela, whatever carrier you decide to use, take pics of your car as it is being picked up. Make sure the transporter and/or the driver is in the pics. Also be sure to get a "damage sheet" showing what, if any, defects the car may have. The driver should provide this. It is for everyone's protection.
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My concern with the big van lines is that they will often switch up cars during the move. I have read stories of cars being loaded at the front top of the enclosed trailer and when the car was offloaded it was on the bottom. I have also read information that cars have been heldup at maintenance terminals with the trucks having maintenance problems. Here is a website that I reviewed information on before selecting a transporter inthe past.
http://www.transportreviews.com/
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Can anyone offer advice concerning the correct way to secure a vintage mustang into an enclosed trailer? Specifically, I would like to know if it's best to use wheel-nets or traditional ratchet-straps (one at each wheel). I will be strapping down a show car and am concerned about damaging paint, stressing components or damaging brake lines if I strap against the rear axle and front lower control arms. I'm looking for feedback.
I was told that these traditional straps were a good choice: http://www.ebay.com/itm/390966364311
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Angela, You'll get a variety of answers, but here's my 2 cents. The straps you've shown a link to are an excellent choice (especially on the rear) as they have the "loop" built into them. The type with just a hook, and then use a separate loop, also work well and are sometimes more versatile. I prefer to "let the suspension work" while a vehicle is tied down. In other words I don't pull the car down against it's springs. I hook to the rear end itself and somewhere on the front that still allows the cars suspension to work. After you strap it down have someone push up and down on the car while you check for any possible contact with the strap. Even slight contact with movement will wear/cut a strap. At the rear you will also get varying opinions on whether to "cross" the straps or not. I have found that if you have a slick floor in the trailer then definitely cross the straps. If not (my trailers have a non-skid floor coating) then I prefer to pull straight back. If crossed and one strap fails then the other one will tend to pull it in that direction. I personally pull/tie down straight both front and back. Wheel nets work great if the trailer is set up for them. I'm just not a big fan due to the limited flexibility of properly tying down a variety of different length cars. Tie it down and above all check your load at every stop! You might also check out these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cmb-29-0012 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cmb-29-0012)
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Angela, You'll get a variety of answers, but here's my 2 cents. The straps you've shown a link to are an excellent choice (especially on the rear) as they have the "loop" built into them. The type with just a hook, and then use a separate loop, also work well and are sometimes more versatile. I prefer to "let the suspension work" while a vehicle is tied down. In other words I don't pull the car down against it's springs. I hook to the rear end itself and somewhere on the front that still allows the cars suspension to work. After you strap it down have someone push up and down on the car while you check for any possible contact with the strap. Even slight contact with movement will wear/cut a strap. At the rear you will also get varying opinions on whether to "cross" the straps or not. I have found that if you have a slick floor in the trailer then definitely cross the straps. If not (my trailers have a non-skid floor coating) then I prefer to pull straight back. If crossed and one strap fails then the other one will tend to pull it in that direction. I personally pull/tie down straight both front and back. Wheel nets work great if the trailer is set up for them. I'm just not a big fan due to the limited flexibility of properly tying down a variety of different length cars. Tie it down and above all check your load at every stop! You might also check out these http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cmb-29-0012 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cmb-29-0012)
+1 and to add I have tied down both ways but have noticed the if tied down compressing the springs you never can eliminate the up and down movement completely resulting in the straps working themselves loose and even more quickly on rough roads. I check at every stop but find tying down by way of frame rail "j" hooks in front and factory tiedown bracket in rear they work loose to the point of a couple to several clicks on the ratchet strap when I check every single time at the next stop. That is just me and the reason why I choose to do it the axle tube way.
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FWIW - I've trailered my fair share of things with suspensions. The best way is to keep the tires planted in one spot. I've been behind trailers where they were fastened at points other than the axles its unnerving how much they can slide. I suspect this is why they've developed rear shock plates and lower a-arm brackets with convienent strap accomodations. Of course they're not concours.
Funny story / cautionary tale...- I had delivered my 200cid engine to my father for rebuilding (in the back of my subaru outback). When the engine was done he sent a buddy with a car carrier to get my car (the driver was going to a big car auction here in VA). Learned alot the day the 40' car carrier showed up on my street! I learned just how heavy a mustang without an engine is. I learned that car carrier ramps are steep. I also learned that a 40' car carrier does not have some magical winch to drag a car up on it. And that drivers don't carry come-a-longs and really don't want to help push.
I ended up using 2 neighbors, a chainfall, and some heavy straps. We got the car all the way up to the back of the cab. When the car arrived to my father in CT it looked like it had been through a poop storm after it's 600 mile journey from VA to CT... yes... it would have been easier for me to go get the engine. My mom & dad had fun driving the car back to me in VA when it was reassembled though.
-Perry
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Hmmm,,,,If this Mustang is your prized posession and on top of that a 390 BB and you've been working on it for over a decade, what does it matter what it's going cost to have it hauled by a well known transport company? I know your distance is approximately 1100 miles. THAT'S a long way. Skyway65 said that Reliable is EXCELLENT, and drivers that "get it" when it comes to classic and vintage cars. I'd say that these professional know how to "start-up" any classic muscle car with a little instruction from the owner. And on top of all this, I'd say MOST, if not all, well known haulers have excellent insurance.
So you ask yourself, do I want to take the risk of pulling my "prized possession" 1100 miles, with a vehicle I've never drove before and towing a trailer I've never towed before and risk something happening and just HOPE your insurance covers any/all the damages?
To me, it's a no-brainer". I would spend extra and let the Professional do the hauling of my "prized possession", JMO. :D
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Thanks to all three people who responded (above) concerning tie-down straps. I have a couple follow-up questions:
(1) What's the difference between the MAC (brand) and SUMMIT strap kits (see links above)? Is the difference merely the brand and hence price?
(2) Where are you guys connecting the straps up front? A picture would be worth a 1000 words. :-)
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Hmmm,,,,If this Mustang is your prized posession and on top of that a 390 BB and you've been working on it for over a decade, what does it matter what it's going cost to have it hauled by a well known transport company? I know your distance is approximately 1100 miles. THAT'S a long way. Skyway65 said that Reliable is EXCELLENT, and drivers that "get it" when it comes to classic and vintage cars. I'd say that these professional know how to "start-up" any classic muscle car with a little instruction from the owner. And on top of all this, I'd say MOST, if not all, well known haulers have excellent insurance.
So you ask yourself, do I want to take the risk of pulling my "prized possession" 1100 miles, with a vehicle I've never drove before and towing a trailer I've never towed before and risk something happening and just HOPE your insurance covers any/all the damages?
To me, it's a no-brainer". I would spend extra and let the Professional do the hauling of my "prized possession", JMO. :D
Thanks "priceless".... good input. It's precisely that since the vehicle is so important to me, I don't like the idea of tossing the keys to some transport co that I don't know and letting them load/unload and haul it who knows where/how.... Ugh, I cannot stomach that. Just my $0.02.
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/\/\/\ That's why you hire a professional that has good references. As I stated, my cousin who did his had special training and a structured way of doing things.
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Where are you guys connecting the straps up front? A picture would be worth a 1000 words.
If I had one loaded now I shoot some pictures. Sorry. Everything is unloaded and garaged for the winter.
If it is a car with a good front sway bar solidly mounted I will attach my front straps around the bar close to the horseshoe frame mounts. That is assuming your front tie downs are far enough forward where you are pulling forward on the car and not much downward. A lot of folks will loop around the lower control arm. I'm not a fan of that method as a lot of lower arms are rough enough to cut straps with movement. A lot depends on the front valance or front spoiler interference.
Attaching at the "round" of the rear axle and the "round" of the front sway bar make it much less likely cut your straps. I actually make sleeves out of bath towel thickness material to go around my axle straps where the webbing of the tie down doesn't make contact with the vehicle. Acts a cushion where it's more difficult to damage my straps. If I see any wear on the towel sleeve then I replace it before anything can damage/cut my straps. A piece of towel is much cheaper that a new set of tie down straps.
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I picked up a set of axle straps that were 'wrapped'.
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I picked up a set of axle straps that were 'wrapped'.
I got my wrapped ones from Mac.
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I have moved a few cars long distance inside the box of moving trucks. This allows for a 1 way rental and the box height is compatible with a low bed for loading and unloading. I loop the straps under 2x4's and screw them to the floor. This one was transporting a 68.5 project from Florida back to California. The contents never shifted one bit and never even had to tighten the straps. It is simple with a running car on all 4's. Cordless drill some good wood screws and a couple of 2x4's with your set of straps. Upon arrival call a low bed, remove the evidence, sweep it out and return to the rental counter ;D
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Yea, but you're hauling a Mustang minus the complete drivetrain. Looks like no interior either. You've just subtracted probably 1/2 the total weight of the car!!
I don't think I'd want to haul a 3400# Mustang, strapped to 4x4's and the boards screwed to the floor. Remember, she has a complete Mustang WITH a BB 390. One hard hit on the brakes and......You guess what happens!!!
I wouldn't do it, JMO.
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Yea, but you're hauling a Mustang minus the complete drivetrain. Looks like no interior either. You've just subtracted probably 1/2 the total weight of the car!!
I don't think I'd want to haul a 3400# Mustang, strapped to 4x4's and the boards screwed to the floor. Remember, she has a complete Mustang WITH a BB 390. One hard hit on the brakes and......You guess what happens!!!
I wouldn't do it, JMO.
I wouldn't do it either! Across town to the body shop for paint, stripped down like that...maybe but again, loading and unloading that thing is a real Bother! My parents once had a '89 Crown Victory puke-out in Georgia while pulling a light trailer from Florida to Ohio, rented a U-Haul and put the Vickey inside and pulled the trailer back behind...worked out very nicely...But it wasn't a pride & joy ++++$45K Mustang either!
No!, absolutely NO!!!!!!
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The entire car contents was in the box. The 428 CJ engine is clearly visible in the pic. In fact it weighed more because the dolly was very heavy
You are entitled to your opinion. The difference is you are speculating an outcome and I have actually done it..several times. Correct wood screws (many of them) are holding the boards in place. Have you ever actually inspected the commercial grade wood floor in a professionally build moving truck? These things ride rough bumpity bump and upon checking the straps every time I got gas was amazed nothing had moved and never even had to click the ratchets one single time. Of course I would do it again having proven success in doing so in the past. I also have my own trailer but for a long haul for a car in parts this penciled out. Have likely more tow miles than most on these forums so not just floating facts here and was just trying to help. This was a very rare, valuable freshly painted car as well
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The entire car contents was in the box.......
Yes, but the ENTIRE contents of the complete car wasn't on the rolling 4 tires, the weight was spaced throughout the whole van. One severe stab on the brakes and that 3400# probably would triple with the G forces !!!
LOL, Yea, you're exactly right, we're all entitled to our opinions.
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Have likely more tow miles than most on these forums......
Well, I've been towing for 20 years commercially (with a CDL class "A" license) and my own Mustangs in a 24' enclosed. Probably logged well over 150,000+ miles.
I'm just saying this is my opinion....I personally wouldn't haul a complete 3400# Mustang in a box truck with 2X4's attached to the floor with wood screws....JMO
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Have the A license with Cat for 20 yrs
This type of haul is not allowed by the rental co so likely should have refrained from sharing. It is very popular with auction cars going to Mexico and our local offroaders do it with their Jeeps to save fuel going to the desert. That is where I got the idea initially. It could be easily done wrong as well. Lots of tricks to securing a safe load and I know them as proven.
Point was not to convince anyone but to show an alternative that does in fact work if properly executed.
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Point was not to convince anyone but to show an alternative that does in fact work if properly executed.
Point taken, and as mentioned, I know of family who has done this before too. The big problem would always be IF...IF something went wrong. Insurance will not cover your cargo if it is outside the guidelines of the carrier. That can be a huge risk. When my parents did this years ago in Georgia, it was because their backs were against the wall. It was the right answer to the dilemma they were in. I wouldn't ever say I would NEVER try it if I were attempting to haul one home from afar, while working at keeping expenses down (say I flew in somewhere and HAD to do the once in a lifetime deals "right now".)
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I'm still looking for advice concerning where, precisely, do folks locate the tie-down straps at the front end of a '67? It looks like I can use the cross-brace on the passenger side of the (front) car, but the radiator hose prohibits me from doing the same on the driver's side. I don't like the thought of wrapping the strap around the lower control arm, because the strap is just going to try and pull the control arm forward at an angle (D-rings are located just ahead of and outward of each front tire).
Help?
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I'm still looking for advice concerning where, precisely, do folks locate the tie-down straps at the front end of a '67? It looks like I can use the cross-brace on the passenger side of the (front) car, but the radiator hose prohibits me from doing the same on the driver's side. I don't like the thought of wrapping the strap around the lower control arm, because the strap is just going to try and pull the control arm forward at an angle (D-rings are located just ahead of and outward of each front tire).
Help?
The lowers are supported forward with the strut rods so not much you can do to harm them by pulling forward wrapped around them like many do myself included. I have a padded wrap that goes around the strap so as not to mar anything. I like the angle that particular tie point provides. Alternate points are strut rods, or "J" hooks in frame rail key way made for the special tow "J" hook. I hope this helps.
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............ I don't like the thought of wrapping the strap around the lower control arm, because the strap is just going to try and pull the control arm forward at an angle (D-rings are located just ahead of and outward of each front tire).
I've often just crossed the front (and even the rear) straps so that it centers and reduces the side movement the car might make during the trip and if using the lowers pulls in s similar direction as the struts. Also often its a short distance to the front anchors and crossing them allows me a better fit and ability to access and apply the tightening devices