Topic: Firewall pad repair

[Oz390]

You can re-back them with jute or even thin carpet padding contact cemented to the back (I guess you could even use burlap in a pinch).  Trim it back from the edge a bit and no one will ever see it installed and it can help hold the frail OEM padding together.

I am tinkering with fixing one, but a Dearborn.  As noted the spatter pattern makes it easier.  Found a product called Shoe-Goo a black mastic that seems to be doing an OK job of patching cracks and piecing the torn pad back together.  A spray of black Plasti-dip over the top and I'll see how the finish looks.  It builds a little more than paint/dye, and if the color is not to my liking I'll look into to dye over the top.  I doubt the patches will look factory if someone really sticks their head under the dash and looks, but as a lot of it is hard to see if the damage is not in an obvious place it may pass muster.  At least its a OEM (finding an original here in Oz would be tough).   To me more of an experiment to just try to fix it than make it 100% "correct".

On the deduction noted, one point for a repro, so what about a OEM that is repaired and may not look "perfect" but be solid and not show any major damage?  If some split padding shows the patches on close inspection, same deduction?

[67gta289]

Any update on firewall repairs methods and results?  I just cleaned mine up - pretty nice overall but a few things I would like to touch up before putting it in.  Thanks.

[J_Speegle]

Any update on firewall repairs methods and results?  I just cleaned mine up - pretty nice overall but a few things I would like to touch up before putting it in.  Thanks.

You can glue and patch but returning the texture and pattern for a San Jose pad is very difficult and time consuming

Glue what rips you can and hopefully not disturb any of the "dots"

[67gtasanjose]

Any update on firewall repairs methods and results?  I just cleaned mine up - pretty nice overall but a few things I would like to touch up before putting it in.  Thanks.

Mine was torn up around the column badly enough to not try and fix it. If I had another donor SJ pad, there might be some hope to glue in pieces and patch it back together. No decision has been made on what I will use at this time but if anybody has a damaged SJ pad that isn't hurt too bad around the column area, PM me and maybe there is hope.

Richard

[ruppstang]

Last weekend I took on a firewall pad restoration project. Subject 1 is a San Jose pad that the mice had eaten large sections of but other wise was in good condition. I found a rough donor pad to replace the missing pieces. I cut the padding back about 1 1/2 inches from the cut on the face and used a spray adhesive on both pieces then I carefully aliened them. After it dried I carefully cleaned it with a spray window cleaner then scrubbed with a soft brush and blotted it dry with a towel. When it had completely dried I sealed the cut with some Evercoat undercoating with a artist brush.
When that was dry I treated the entire pad with Maguire's 40 to bring up the luster. It is not perfect but a lot better than a repop.

Subject 2 is a Dearborn pad that was badly cracked and dried out. I first cleaned it wit air and a soft brush. Then I used some contact cement on a brush to glue the cracks and separations. I then used a sponge brush to apply two coats of the Evercoat undercoating over the entire pad. It now is useable but is a bit too shiny. It may dull down in time.   
Marty

[Bob Gaines]

Marty ,I like what you accomplished . I wonder if one of the artist flattening spray clear might dull down the shine on the mat to a more desirable level.

[67gtasanjose]

Last weekend I took on a firewall pad restoration project. Subject 1 is a San Jose pad that the mice had eaten large sections of but other wise was in good condition. I found a rough donor pad to replace the missing pieces. I cut the padding back about 1 1/2 inches from the cut on the face and used a spray adhesive on both pieces then I carefully aliened them. After it dried I carefully cleaned it with a spray window cleaner then scrubbed with a soft brush and blotted it dry with a towel. When it had completely dried I sealed the cut with some Evercoat undercoating with a artist brush.
When that was dry I treated the entire pad with Maguire's 40 to bring up the luster. It is not perfect but a lot better than a repop.

Subject 2 is a Dearborn pad that was badly cracked and dried out. I first cleaned it wit air and a soft brush. Then I used some contact cement on a brush to glue the cracks and separations. I then used a sponge brush to apply two coats of the Evercoat undercoating over the entire pad. It now is useable but is a bit too shiny. It may dull down in time.   
Marty

Marty, would you have any remnants from a San Jose pad that I could possibly section out some of the dotted material from? After looking at my pad, I see only a few square inches of the textured material is gone, the backing I can figure something out with.

Richard

[ruppstang]

Richard PM sent.
Marty

[67gtasanjose]

I have been working tirelessly on repairing my original pad (previously pictured in earlier comment)
Today, I feel I have made marked progress on the section to the Left of the steering Column. I will be uploading more images of the other side as I get further along with those repairs. THIS particular task has not been very simple to do. It really is unfortunate that the aftermarkets fail so miserably.

What I have done so far is I have removed the outer "skin" of my San Jose firewall pad and I have also purchased a "cheapie" firewall pad to obtain a rough-cut of the jute backing to use. I used a vinyl repair adhesive by Permatex (#81786) and fiberglass cloth as reinforcement for the repairs. (one repair pictured below) Scraping down the "skin" without damaging it more is the hardest part of this process. I feel the mouse urine soaked jute backing was not what I wished to have inside of my restoration project yet I wanted an original-looking firewall pad. I suggest mechanics gloves and at least a dust mask! (nasty!)

I could use ideas on what to use to fill in the cracks or holes behind the washer pump. I have some ideas, but curious if others have things used proven good. For example, I sectioned in the V-shaped end under the steering column. I used some paintable undercoating on the visable seam but noticed it still a bit "tacky" to the touch several days later. It looks good though, but will it dry?

Here are the pictures of the LEFT section to illustrate the process I followed so far:

[ruppstang]

Yes the brush able undercoating works well but does stay a bit tacky and is a bit shiny. A light mist of semi gloss clear lacquer will cure both problems.
It is looking good so far. These project take a lot of time and will keep you out of the bars or drive you there.
Marty

[67gtasanjose]

OK, a couple days ago while looking for the right stuff to fill cracks/blemishes in my attempts to restore my original pad, I made a discovery of sorts. My goal was to find a rubbery substance (like the previously mentioned "Shoe-Goo") that would bond to the rubber-like material that the "skin" of the San Jose pad is made from, something black, and something "dull", or not shiney... but thick enough to shape and use as a filler of sorts. Local hardware store was no help, I had tried the Evercoat idea but was not satisfied in the fact it remained "tacky" to the touch even days later.

The idea of the right stuff to use came to me when I asked that very question. "What is the right stuff? The answer: "The Right Stuff"!!! I'll post more images when I finish the job. In the image below, can you spot where I sectioned in a 6 inch long area a couple inches each side of the "knock-out" for the AC evaporator drain hose? (section I used was out of a '68 SJ without AC). It is IMHO, very difficult to see! (well pleased) What do you all think?

Now, to finish the job, I could use some more images of the visable area of a 67 San Jose pad, preferably of pictures of pads for SJ '67 cars with AC but I'll look at any 67-68 SJ cars, with or without AC. Pictures of the steering column area in particular would be great. That area was missing on my car and I spliced in another piece there. I am trying to see where any of the edges were covered with the black rubbery surface and what edges were simply the bare die-cut "Jute". I noticed that the '68 SJ pad that Marty worked on (previously pictured in this thread) was slightly different than my '67.

[gtamustang]

I think you have found a suitable product for the pad repair! How is it once it dries? Is it tacky like Evercoat?

You might want to add an arrow to your picture to show where you made the repair. 

Regards,
Pete Morgan

[67gtasanjose]

I think you have found a suitable product for the pad repair! How is it once it dries? Is it tacky like Evercoat?

No, it is firm and shapable, not tacky when cured overnight. I used a single edge razor blade as a putty knife to press it in, once it gets tacky (5-10 minutes) I use a red shop rag to texture the slight semi-gloss down a bit and let it dry. Fills cracks very well this way.  When extensive repairs are needed to be done, and I had a few, it might take a few fills with it to get it right. For example, there is a round hole where the gas pedal passes through the pad. I made a patch right through the middle of the hole because that area was totally missing on my original pad. I used the fiberglass cloth and clear vinyl adhesive last week to section in the missing "skin". After the new jute backing was glued in place, the hole was oblonged and jagged in spots. I have spread this "Right Stuff" directly onto the jute within the sides of the opening (somewhat like it was originally in some areas) Once it cured overnight, I used a slightly worn down cut-off wheel (a little smaller than what the hole ought to be) on a rotary grinder, I was able to grind the hole perfectly round and then added another layer of "The Stuff". Like frosting a cake, you just need patience and practice. I practiced in areas NOT SEEN first to get the hang of it.

You might want to add an arrow to your picture to show where you made the repair. 

I'm not sure how to do that, I've never tried before.  I would say if I have to TELL YOU WHERE I sectioned it in, it passes muster. I replaced the whole piece that measures roughly 6 inches long by 3-1/3" wide, the whole section just in front of the can pictured in my previous post. Below is a cropped, close up picture of the complete "sectioned in" repair. The right side of the screen, you should see a trace visable of the seam running vertically, top to bottom of the screenshot. The LEFT seam is diagonal, towards the top left of the screen and runs from the center transmission tunnel hump diagonally to the opening where the can was pictured before in my previous image. Best I can do to show and tell.
Richard

[67gtasanjose]

I just realized I never uploaded my FINISHED San Jose Firewall Pad! Sorry, I thought I had! I did this months ago now.
Helps to have a BEFORE/AFTER set! To summarize, First, Using a very soft bristle brush, (I used one from a vacuum cleaner attachment) I scrubbed the hell out of this thing! Wash, dry, repeat till it looks clean. (then let dry completely in the sun) I then very carefully "skinned" the old facing from the rodent urine-soaked jute backing. (gloves and a mask) Take your time, this "skin" tears very easily, you can make more work if you hurry. I repaired all of the tears and rips with the fiberglass mesh and adhesive. This seemed to take forever because I would fix ONE place and wait 1 day to move on. I sectioned in any missing areas with a donor San Jose pad, making every attempt to align the pattern wherever possible. I then bought a reproduction "cheapie" pad from either NPD or Virginia Classic (I could look into that and edit~ not sure it matters) and also skinned the rubber facing from the new pad. The jute fit really good from the section to the LEFT of the steering column with minimal effort. The section on the other side failed miserably. I needed to stretch it to fit the contours of the cowl panel and yet reach all the way across. Then, while holding the jute against the firewall, slowly 3M spray adhesive the jute and repaired "skin" together, all the while forcing as much contour into the new jute. (very tricky~ helps that the car is on a rotisserie and I stood the car on it's drivers side) After the old skin was glued to the new jute, I had some filler work on the jute to fill in where it came up short in spots. That is when I was able to see it beginning to take shape.

Some other pointers:
1.) I used long lag screws coming from the engine bay through the firewall where the fuse panel screwed in to keep that aligned before gluing the two halves together.
2.) Similarly, for the factory holes where the push-pins hold the firewall pad in, I used inch and a half by 1/4" bolts with nuts on them, tightened in before hanging the jute and before gluing the halves together, this kept the holes lined up as I moved along.
3.) As I said, I worked SLOWLY to bring the skin to the jute. After an initial test fit DRY (no glue) I glued ONLY THE AREA BEHIND THE FUSE PANEL AREA FIRST, leaving the rest seperated (unglued) and took the partially glued section inside of the car (still on the rotisserie) and hung it on all of those screws and bolts.I began by spraying both sides (backside of skin, face of jute) with the 3M spray adhesive.  Once I felt it looked like it would take shape, I seperated the skin down, leaving the jute hanging from the screws and bolts and going about 6 inches at a time till I got to where the heater hoses went through. At that point, I just shot the glue the rest of the way and went for broke.
4.) Once the glue had set up a day, I cleaned the now refurbished old skin surface one last time. (toothbrush & mild soap, blotting with a rag) and let dry in the sun.
5.) NOW is when I began using the "Right Stuff" to fill cracks and remaining "issues"
6.) NOTHING was used afterwards, the "satin-shine look" is natural after the extensive cleaning along the way

[Bossbill]

I finally got the firewall pad out of my 67 SJ parts car.

However, this pad has much less detail in the area that I think judges look (under the heater).
One might think that perhaps someone messed with it, but this thing also shows signs of imperfect molding elsewhere.

The bottom has very few dots and some areas show a spider web effect where much less product was used. See the area straight up (3" actual) from the firewall pin hole.

At this point I'm tempted to create a large mold (cut the firewall out of the parts car to start) and repop this thing.