Author Topic: Metal prepping small parts  (Read 879 times)

Offline ruger

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Metal prepping small parts
« on: December 31, 2019, 02:04:48 PM »
I tested a few small nuts, washers and bolts with the gun bluing solution.   I tested the first bolt in a container full strength.  Then tested another diluted half strength with water.  The results were exactly the same color wise.  Went ahead and put another bolt in the diluted solution and got the same color result.  I think I am happy with the outcome but I do not know about how this color would wear.   Any ideas on longevity ? 
Once installed I doubt it will ever come off of the car again.   
1969 Sportsroof Mustang E'
63D
250 six cyl.
C4 trans.
Dearborn build Nov. 1968

Offline jwc66k

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Re: Metal prepping small parts
« Reply #1 on: December 31, 2019, 02:57:31 PM »
Read "Phosphating 101" in the "Processes, Products & Techniques" section of this forum.
Jim
I promise to be politically correct in all my posts to keep the BBBB from vociferating.

Offline ruger

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Re: Metal prepping small parts
« Reply #2 on: December 31, 2019, 03:40:12 PM »
Thanks Jim,  I did read that and some other places also.  Trying to find a way to get the same accomplishments without the cooking process. 
1969 Sportsroof Mustang E'
63D
250 six cyl.
C4 trans.
Dearborn build Nov. 1968

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Metal prepping small parts
« Reply #3 on: December 31, 2019, 04:31:26 PM »
I tested a few small nuts, washers and bolts with the gun bluing solution.   I tested the first bolt in a container full strength.  Then tested another diluted half strength with water.  The results were exactly the same color wise.  Went ahead and put another bolt in the diluted solution and got the same color result.  I think I am happy with the outcome but I do not know about how this color would wear.   Any ideas on longevity ?


Longevity will be about the same if you keep the items oiled. If there is an issue the gun bluing is something you can use to refinish or touch up with many items just left on the car. As mentioned in a couple of other threads I've used the gun repair fluid on items that were originally phosphate  and no one noticed any slight different in the finish one oiled since there is a range of acceptable colors, tints and look since each batch can be slightly different. Would use the dipped or brushed method of application for faking phosphate with the fluid and then rinse to stop the effect and remove any remaining solution, heat to get any moisture out of the metal (not real hot just so its hot to the touch) then quench or add protectant oil/wax

Another solution for small missed items is to purchase an old microwave from a second hand store find a save container that holds a cup of the phosphate solution. Heat it then soak the nut and or bolt in that. Then finish as you normally would

Give it a try. Worst thing that can happen is that it doesn't turn out like you want so you strip it back to bare untreated steel and try again. Happens
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline ruger

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Re: Metal prepping small parts
« Reply #4 on: December 31, 2019, 07:56:55 PM »
Thank you all for the info.  I appreciate it very much.
I have til April / May to get this done.  Hoping I get this technique correctly done. 
1969 Sportsroof Mustang E'
63D
250 six cyl.
C4 trans.
Dearborn build Nov. 1968

Offline ruger

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Re: Metal prepping small parts
« Reply #5 on: January 11, 2020, 10:05:22 PM »
I played around a bit today with some metal hardware.  I prepped just as though I was gonna phosphate bath them but instead immersed them in plain ole white vinegar. I wire wheeled them to shiny metal.    Left them in about an half hour.  They turned medium to dark grey quickly.   I immersed them for another treatment.  Did not get any darker. 
I am sure it's been tried by others on here, so has anyone got longevity reports using this method?    I also immersed them into motor oil for a bit.   
1969 Sportsroof Mustang E'
63D
250 six cyl.
C4 trans.
Dearborn build Nov. 1968

Offline J_Speegle

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Re: Metal prepping small parts
« Reply #6 on: January 11, 2020, 10:27:29 PM »
I played around a bit today with some metal hardware.  I prepped just as though I was gonna phosphate bath them but instead immersed them in plain ole white vinegar. I wire wheeled them to shiny metal.    Left them in about an half hour.  They turned medium to dark grey quickly.   I immersed them for another treatment.  Did not get any darker. 
I am sure it's been tried by others on here, so has anyone got longevity reports using this method?    I also immersed them into motor oil for a bit.

Longevity? As always depends on your local conditions (humidity) the cars use and exposure. Also how often your re-oil pieces. I've had some parts on one of my cars that started showing a little rust in a couple of areas after letting the car sit for 5 to 8 years in storage. A little steel wool, a touch of the gun bluing repair fluid and a protective coat of oil and they were back to looking nice again. Or you can remove the piece and just redo it - depends on the part. Larger items with that you want completely dark should likely be redone completely to produce a consistent look across the whole surface.

I heat of the parts (not enough to produce any issues with the coloring or metal) before I quench them in oil. May help the metal release any water from the process, open pores in the metal and allow for better retention of the oil over time.

As for the comment about it not getting darker. Guess your dipping or applying directly (one of the two styles that produce different looks) with brush or rag. The colorization takes place almost instantaneously and will not change with multiple applications

 
« Last Edit: January 11, 2020, 10:29:35 PM by J_Speegle »
Jeff Speegle

Anything worth doing is worth doing concours ;)

Offline ruger

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Re: Metal prepping small parts
« Reply #7 on: January 11, 2020, 10:45:54 PM »
Thanks Jeff,  I did dip them into a cup.  This is my first attempt at darkening steel.  I also don't want all of the hardware I will do to get the exact same coloring and look.  Planning on doing all pieces that need to be darkened.  I am planning on also getting the Klean Strip  "Etch and Prep" phosphate solution. 
1969 Sportsroof Mustang E'
63D
250 six cyl.
C4 trans.
Dearborn build Nov. 1968