Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models > Drivetrain

Original 65-66 HP chrome valve covers or wrong gaskets?

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Scott302:
There are 3 major 289 steel valve cover styles in 65-66.  The first 2 are known as the round style and the last is the square style. The square style was introduced around May 66.  The valve cover lower (exhaust) side was taller making the profile of the cover more "square" looking.  The two earlier styles had the same rounded profile but the lower valve cover gasket locating tab positions were different.  The 65 cover had 8.78" on center between the tabs and the 66 (both round and square styles) were 6.58" on center.  The 66's also had an extra notch next to the lower tab cutouts for clearance of the air log fittings and the reason for the revised locating tab position.  So in your photo 6449 the lower cover is 65 and upper cover is a 66. 

The valve cover gaskets also had to change to accommodate the different locations of the locating tabs.  The C2OZ gasket was used through 65 and the new C6OZ gasket was used from 66 on.  On 2/25/69 a revised gasket with no lower locating tabs was also approved for production.  The 2/15/69 date is the date the blueprint change was signed off on approving the new design.  I have the blueprints for these gaskets.  Most aftermarket gasket manufacturers make the later style gaskets either with the narrow lower locating tab position or no lower tabs. 

I have made stamping dies for both styles of gaskets (C2OZ and C6OZ) and I am waiting on the cork material to run these.  They are correct to the Ford blueprints including the shape of the tabs which drove the die maker nuts.

As a side note, Ford valve cover gaskets for 170-200, 260-351W and 352-428 all have notes that the cork material be coated with a black neoprene coating .001-.005" thick.  The 352-428 gaskets also had a silver coating on top of the black neoprene.  I have located a black coating that appears to work very well.  The trouble is that the 16 oz bottle is around $70-$80!  I am looking into separating this into 1 oz. bottles which is more than enough for a pair of gaskets.

Regards,
Scott

Bob Gaines:
 I very much appreciate Scotts effort to make repro parts better but wonder in this case if he is making things harder then they need to be . The proper tabs in proper locations on cork gaskets is the most important thing IMO. Given only a few if any modern enthusiasts put on the gaskets dry without a additional adhesive/sealer I am not sure a black neoprene specific material is needed other then something that looks the part (black) for exposed areas on the small block gaskets. Certainly not the FE gaskets that have silver over the neoprene. I tell people to spray the otherwise plain cork FE gaskets with aluminum paint before sealing . Of course in the interest of historical look I caution people to not use too much sealer and to remove any that squeezes out and visible .You can take a pick tool,solvent ,rag etc. to remove excess before it sets up.Just some of my thoughts . Go Scott. :D

Scott302:
I'm not going to paint them. Only considering to make the black urethane product available in a 1 oz container.
Scott

J_Speegle:
Thanks Scott for sharing your findings and what your attempting do do behind the scenes  :)

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