ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Misc Items => Topic started by: 66SevenLitre on March 12, 2018, 07:28:05 PM
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I didn't see anything on this already, so I thought I'd start a thread on Ford wire terminals and connectors. I'll start with the different connectors as listed by the 1965-72 Ford MPC. I've attached pictures which show Types 1-64.
Idea is to help fellow Ford friends identify the proper terminals and in time, identify which are being reproduced as well as techniques to restore current ones.
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There are others that are not listed, for example the brake switch connector and pins. Type 64 is a real bear to remove pins (1970 ignition switch).
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Thanks for the input. If you have more info on the connector types, please share. Idea is to document for everyone and make this something of a reference thread.
Here are pictures of single wire connectors taken from a 1966 Galaxie harness. Ford used the same connectors all cars.
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Here are some more ...
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Yet more ...
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Here are single-wire connectors from wire harnesses
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Midlife is correct, there are a lot more common male and female plugs and connectors not shown.
My company lists scores of used wiring pigtails and wiring plug connectors with specific plug and wire colors. Our listings are geared towards specific Cougar harness repairs, but they are just OEM factory Ford plugs and wires.
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Thanks for the input. If you want to share more about them, please post up. Trying to create something of a repository here.
Meanwhile, here are pictures of three different types of terminals.
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Never seen heat shrinking at connectors from Ford; doesn't mean they don't exist, but they are certainly not common.
Some observations: most ring connectors without molding on them are ground connectors. Any spade connector that has exposed metal is a grounding connector.
There are at least 2 sizes of bullet connectors: one of which is very common and is compatible with standard trailer connectors. Somewhat smaller sized female and male bullet connectors seem to be associated with the green/yellow fused power and blue/black courtesy light power lines, particularly in the door jamb areas.
Most pins are still available; I've yet to find a good source for the larger ignition plug pins (70 and up), the 90* female spade pins (e.g. the brake switch pins), and there's no source for the 3 pin left side door jamb socket (70 on up). I finally found a source for the dash cluster pins (69 on up). Single molded bullet plugs with correct wire colors and molding can only be harvested from OEM harnesses.
It would take me a good week to catalog and picture every type of pin and socket I've run across...
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.............Ford used the same connectors all cars.
Would not assume that as a fact. Plus your statement covers allot of years ;)
You'll find is exacting and specific here.... because we have to be :)
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Never seen heat shrinking at connectors from Ford; doesn't mean they don't exist, but they are certainly not common.
Agree. I think shrink tubing appeared in 1962, 63 or 64. It was too new to be adopted by Ford in that time frame.
Any spade connector that has exposed metal is a grounding connector.
I cannot remember any 65 or 66 Mustang with a spade lug. There are ring lugs with internal teeth used as grounds, the dash comes to mind.
There are at least 2 sizes of bullet connectors: one of which is very common and is compatible with standard trailer connectors.
The two common sizes are 0.156 in dia and 0.187 in dia, the latter being very common on 65 and 66 Mustangs, and thru 73 on most connectors. It seems that the Ford standard was the 0.187 in dia, GM and Mopar cars of the era used the 0.156 dia pins. I base that on a GM heater blower motor that "appeared" in my junk pile.
A smaller pin, I estimate it at 0.050 in dia and being solid, seems to have been used on door jam switches after 1967.
Multi-pin connectors are an entirely different story. A smaller pin/socket was used to make the connector blocks themselves smaller.
Jim
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Jeff - agree wholeheartedly on the mission here about being exact and specific. Fully support that and hoping to add more knowledge and info. :D
Assumptions are risky, I try to avoid those ... but it still happens. In any case, here I was going off the Ford `65-72 MPC.
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Agree. I think shrink tubing appeared in 1962, 63 or 64. It was too new to be adopted by Ford in that time frame.I cannot remember any 65 or 66 Mustang with a spade lug.
Jim & MidLife - if it helps, the picture above with the shrink tube ring connector is from a 1966 Galaxie dash wiring harness. I restored one of these cars (`66 7-Litre) from the ground up, nut & bolt and ran into a few of them. In case it matters, the car placed 2nd in class at the 2017 Hillsborough Concours.
But among the few details I didn't have right were the hard-shield terminals at the solenoid. By chance, would either of you know if reproductions are available ... and/or a process to make those so that they look similar to the picture above? I have good quality IWISS crimping tools but obviously they don't apply here.
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Assumptions are risky, I try to avoid those ... but it still happens. In any case, here I was going off the Ford `65-72 MPC.
Since your new would like to offer that we often are careful when using or posting info from the later MPCs since we realize that they normally were designed to represent what Ford had in inventory at the time of the printing not always what was used on the assembly lines. Single or production year MPC are a better source when available as well as unrestored cars and assembly manuals though each bring with it issues and possibilities of non-correct or matching.
When all of the resources come to the same conclusion its great :D
Carry on
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Jeff - good point. I've run into exactly that. Part numbers in the `65-72 MPC either didn't exist or had changed. It was the same conclusion - get the current year MPC.
I haven't found much documentation or the like out there on the wire terminals/connectors etc Ford was using back then ... so thought maybe this was a good place to start.
Whatever else I find I'll post up here. Idea is to help the community. ;)
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I cannot remember any 65 or 66 Mustang with a spade lug.
Used on 65/66 grounds for instrument cluster CVR's. Sometimes a bullet connector connecting to a metal grounding tab was also used.
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Used on 65/66 grounds for instrument cluster CVR's.
The same name, "spade", describes two similar electrical connections.
Pic 1 - a spade lug. There are a few variations to this, "snap" spade; "bent tip" spade; both designed for better retention. It uses a screw for a positive connection. Not used on Mustangs thru at least 1969.
Pic 2 - a spade terminal. This style is what you are referring to. It is a push on, in this case a female terminal on a wire onto a male terminal used for a better ground.
Note: Spade lugs were not approved for Military or NASA applications at least thru the 80's.
Jim
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jwc66K / MidLife / Jim - have you or anyone else ever heard of a source and/or method to recreate the rubber block terminals used in `66 Fords (and/or other years)?
Referring to the picture below, I'm looking to create a factory-type black terminal (preferably rubber block/yoke type, somewhat similar to the dual black/yellow lead) for the heavy red lead on the power side of the solenoid. Currently it has a modern yellow jacket. Please disregard the black wire with yellow jacket which has since been removed.
This heavy red wire goes from the solenoid around the fenderwell along the top of the firewall through to the junction block inside the passenger compartment.
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The same name, "spade", describes two similar electrical connections.
Pic 1 - a spade lug. There are a few variations to this, "snap" spade; "bent tip" spade; both designed for better retention. It uses a screw for a positive connection. Not used on Mustangs thru at least 1969.
Pic 2 - a spade terminal. This style is what you are referring to. It is a push on, in this case a female terminal on a wire onto a male terminal used for a better ground.
Note: Spade lugs were not approved for Military or NASA applications at least thru the 80's.
Jim
Picture number is what I would call a Fork lug.
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jwc66K / MidLife / Jim - have you or anyone else ever heard of a source and/or method to recreate the rubber block terminals used in `66 Fords (and/or other years)?
Referring to the picture below, I'm looking to create a factory-type black terminal (preferably rubber block/yoke type, somewhat similar to the dual black/yellow lead) for the heavy red lead on the power side of the solenoid. Currently it has a modern yellow jacket. Please disregard the black wire with yellow jacket which has since been removed.
This heavy red wire goes from the solenoid around the fenderwell along the top of the firewall through to the junction block inside the passenger compartment.
Not I, as I have not seen that type of molded connector on any Ford product that has come across my workbench. I cannot create or fabricate any molded connectors, as the machines to do so are fairly large in size, but can be obtained for a reasonable amount of money used. That capability is something I would love to have, but it simply would not be cost-effective for my business.
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Picture number is what I would call a Fork lug.
I almost always use Military Item Identification per the H6 Handbook for item descriptions. To me, it's a spade lug. I spent a lot of years in Military Logistics so it comes natural.
Jim
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Not I, as I have not seen that type of molded connector on any Ford product that has come across my workbench. I cannot create or fabricate any molded connectors, as the machines to do so are fairly large in size, but can be obtained for a reasonable amount of money used. That capability is something I would love to have, but it simply would not be cost-effective for my business.
Midlife - thanks for your feedback. I was wondering if that was the case. It's not hard to see how these rubber block terminals we made using some kind of special process. A machine makes perfect sense. For folks like us there's no east way to separate the end or cut it open and re-use.
Understand your point about cost effectiveness, especially if those machines are big. I will continue digging around to see if there's some kind of alternative process. I've been amazed at how much technology has opened new doors while restoring my car ... stuff like 3D printers, vinyl overlays, new coatings, etc. Not saying I'll find anything but if I do, I'll share it here. Anyhow thanks again for your input.
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For Midlife and anyone else ... just thought I'd share this.
It's from SpliSeal and a way to make hard rubber molded insulators/terminals that are somewhat similar to what Ford made on wire harnesses.
If you look at the picture, it's a double mold. On the top is mold for a hanger connection and the bottom for a ring terminal. The first step is to put your wire in the mold. For instance, if you want a hard rubber block around your ring terminal, you put the bottom half of the terminal, where the wire is crimped, in the mold. Second step is to fill the mold with 'sealant' using a heated glue gun. Then last you open the mold and cut off residue.
Here is a video. Skip ahead to the 30-second mark - https://youtu.be/JbOkVJMPDEU
Of course these molds have the brand name "SpliSeal" embedded in them. Obviously that doesn't appeal to us Concours folks. But it does raise a few thoughts. For instance, what if the original rubber block molded terminals could be copied by a 3D printer? That could be done cheap. If so, new molds similar to could be created which follow the same approach as SpliSeal. All you do is inject the rubber 'sealant'.
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. . what if the original rubber block molded terminals could be copied by a 3D printer?
My neighbor has a 3D printer (actually two - hey, it is Silicon Valley) and so far all the printed stuff is plastic, as in the same type plastic used in plastic forks and spoons (ok, similar - reference only). But I will ask.
Jim
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. . what if the original rubber block molded terminals could be copied by a 3D printer?
Yes and no.
Scanning will not get the internal details, plus the external tolerances are not that good. The item dimensions would have to be manually entered into a CAD system.
Current methods do not exist to insert a wired contact into a flexible rubber insulated boot (see pic 1). The sample shown has the wires and connectors injected molded in place. The "rubber like" material exists but the liquid 3D printing does not allow an object to be inserted during printing.
Current materials may not withstand high temperatures (see pic 2. This is the connector for the headlight switch). Headlight switches generate a lot of heat.
Current materials may not be able to duplicate Bakelite's ability to bend and latch (see pics 3 and 4).
In other words, wait a couple of years.
Jim
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I had someone try to 3-D print the 3 pin door jamb connector for 70-73 driver's side. He had access to the latest printers and materials at his place of work (he did this on the side to see what could be done for us hobbyists), and the result was very disappointing. The tolerance was off, the finish was too rough, and it simply did not fit. Injection molding is THE way to go for these types of things. It's been around for 50+ years and is very good for its application. I was told that the machines to do this can be bought used for reasonable prices (I suspect < $10k), but they are large. With the various colored injection plastics and such, one has to run an awful lot of parts to recoup your investment.
I do like the previous post about hand injecting the molding over a splice (www.spliseal.com). They only make molds for butt splices and ring connectors, not for bullet connectors. That raises the question: I've never seen the guts of the bullet connectors (prior to molding) available on any electronics site. Somebody must make them, as trailer connectors are still being manufactured using the same technology.
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It seems as this thread I covering a multitude of wiring related items, and may end up being split up in order to cover each more in depth. For now, I will address a solution to the question in regard to connectors, terminal ends, etc. ; where to get, or how to make. For quite a few years, I have used an individual from Bend, OR, for many of my wiring needs on my Retractables, 57 T-Bird, and most recently for my 1967 Mustang. His name is Chris Olsen. Chris owns a large Electrical Supply/Contracting Company (Bauer Electric) in Bend, and thus has access to major equipment used to make molded connectors. Of course the Electric Company is his main business, but luckily he is also a hobbyist, and as such has a smaller company, Class Tech Wire. Of course, being his "minor" company, sometimes it takes several weeks to get what you need. However, the quality and price make it worth the wait. While Chris does have some harnesses in stock, or drawings with which to make them, it seems that I always need something that hasn't been reproduced by Chris, or others. In a case like this, it's best to send an original sample (even if you have to borrow an original from a friend). The last two items I had Chris make for my '67 fell into this category. First was the wire from the Distributor to the coil for early 67's. At the time, and possibly still, only the later type that attaches to the coil with a nut, was available. I sent along my brittle original as a sample (pictures attached). The second was a little tougher ; it was the light socket harness for a non-console Safety Convenience system. For this. I borrowed an original harness and sent Chris also 3 sets of colored light sockets that I had picked up over the years, and had him make me 3 "Repo" sets with connectors (pictures attached). As you can see by these examples, the quality is excellent. With product like this available, who would want to try to "make something close" ?
Bob
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Very nice!!!
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...The last two items I had Chris make for my '67 fell into this category. First was the wire from the Distributor to the coil for early 67's. At the time, and possibly still, only the later type that attaches to the coil with a nut, was available. I sent along my brittle original as a sample (pictures attached). The second was a little tougher ; it was the light socket harness for a non-console Safety Convenience system. For this. I borrowed an original harness and sent Chris also 3 sets of colored light sockets that I had picked up over the years, and had him make me 3 "Repo" sets with connectors (pictures attached). As you can see by these examples, the quality is excellent. With product like this available, who would want to try to "make something close" ...
I think I may need to talk with this guy "Chris"!
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To Bob - thanks for providing the info and pictures. Chris Olsen does outstanding work. It's hard to find sources which can do this level of work and for it to be factory correct. Tip my hat to Chris.
One area I'm still curious about is if there's a way to come up with rubber block-type terminals which can be applied to harnesses already installed in the car. For instance, let's say someone added a non-factory connector (which is necessary), or a repair was done and non-standard terminals were used. In this case, the incorrect terminals/connectors need to be replaced with factory correct ones. However, removing the entire harness isn't practical.
The SpliSeal approach is pretty interesting because you simply buy the mold, then lay your wire down before closing the mold and injecting hot sealant with a glue gun. This enables you to make rubber blocks around ring, spade and other terminals, barrels, etc. However, the SpliSeal mold has a logo embedded into it which we don't want. So it got me wondering about alternatives ....
One possibility is Versimold. https://www.versimold.com/
Basically this stuff is soft rubber which you mold into the shape you want before heating it cure (250 degrees). Once cured, it becomes firm hardened rubber. Heating can be done with a heat gun, hair dryer or by placing in boiling water. Challenge here is that molding these terminals/connectors by hand isn't practical. They'll never come out perfect. What's needed is a mold of the rubber block connector/terminal you're trying to re-create the shape.
There are ways to make molds with Polyurethane which is really quite fascinating. Basically you can make just about anything. Take a look at the videos below (I'm in no way associated with BJB, they just have good comprehensive videos which explain):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_KMWhJyYLE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRj6xzNx7P4&t=1s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tnY86LIHf_I&t=10s
Still, the problem here is you need a good vacuum system (28-29Hg pull/ 5-6cfm flow) to remove the air bubbles from the material. But understandably that cost less than the injection molding machine Midlife mentioned. Still, doesn't look practical for a few home uses.
That led me to look at other ways to make a mold. One option is air-dry clay. Clay can be formed by hand, molded, shaped, imprinted or what not, then it air dries to hardness. Seems like a good solution. So I'm thinking of experimenting with Versimold and air-dry clay.
What I would do is form a block of clay, set the terminal (wire and all) on top and press halfway in. Then I'll then flatten the surface around the edges. Idea will be to make the first half of the mold. After removing the terminal from the clay, I'll inspect for imperfections. I'll have to be sure the mold takes into account where the ring or spade terminal, if applicable, will protrude from the rubber block.
Once the first half of the mold is dry, I'll make the second half starting with setting the the terminal back into the mold and adding more clay on top. Then I'll shape into a block to match the bottom half. After removing the top half carefully, again I'll inspect for imperfections and account for the terminal end.
After the two molds are dry, I can shape some Versimold around the ring/spade/whatever terminal before setting into one half of the mold. I would need to be sure there is enough Versimold to fill the mold completely. Then I'd put the second half of the mold on top and press. Next I'd take the top half off and remove any excess material. If all looks well, I'll remove the terminal from the bottom mold and then heat it with a hair dryer or heat gun.
If I've done everything carefully, including covering/protecting the car and all surfaces, I will have been able to recreate the molded terminals right on the car, without removing the harness.
I have the Versimold, next I'm going to get the air dry clay (or whatever is best), then experiment on an old harness. I'll let everyone know how it works out.
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Hello fellow Ford friends ... I am wondering if any of you may have a source for open-ended flag-type spade connectors and black/white striped 10G wire?
Let me explain my application. First, I am fixing a few incorrect details after a body-off restoration. One of them is the power window circuit. While my car is a 7-Litre, many facets of the design and application are similar. The challenge I have is that there simply isn't the wealth of knowledge and information about 7-Litres as there is for Mustangs. So I'm hoping some of you may have input which may steer me in the right direction.
To start, as you know, Ford added a 20A breaker at the solenoid then ran a heavy gauge wire to a "power window safety relay". In my application, the wire is a black/white striped 10G and the relay is located on the firewall to the left of the wiper motor. From the relay, a blue wire goes to the PW lockout switch and a red wire goes to the accessory post on the ignition switch (both travel through the firewall and a junction block).
If you look at the diagram which shows the solenoid, you'll see there are two (double-crimp) flag connectors for the blue/red wires on each side and an open-end spade for the heavy black/white wire which screws into the center connector. Where I need help is on sources for 10G black/white striped wire and the open-end flag-type spade for the center connector on the relay. So far I've found open-end flag-type spade connectors, but they aren't double-crimp. Instead they look like the one in the picture.
Anyone have suggestions?
So far I have checked Vintage Ford but didn't have luck. http://www.vintageford.com/sect_search.cfm?Line=Wiring%20Shop&Category=Wire-%20PVC%20Insulation%2010ga
Bob (196667Bob) had mentioned Chris Olsen, perhaps he might be able to help?
Many thanks in advance.