ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1966 Mustang => Topic started by: evantugby on May 17, 2020, 11:59:33 PM
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Gents,
My 66 kar is going through a concourse restoration. Part of that included a new floor pan. What I need to do now is install the exhaust reinforcement plates and the muffler bracket hanger plates underneath the rear seat since all K-codes and GTs had these.
Question: How were the exhaust reinforcement plates installed at the factory? Were they spot welded, or were they fixed to the floor pan with an adhesive or something else? I've attached a photo of someone's I found online. I circled what appears to be spot welds to hold it in place. Please verify.
In addition, at what point during the mustang assembly process would these have been installed?
Thanks!
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Gents,
My 66 kar is going through a concourse restoration. Part of that included a new floor pan. What I need to do now is install the exhaust reinforcement plates and the muffler bracket hanger plates underneath the rear seat since all K-codes and GTs had these.
Question: How were the exhaust reinforcement plates installed at the factory? Were they spot welded, or were they fixed to the floor pan with an adhesive or something else? I've attached a photo of someone's I found online. I circled what appears to be spot welds to hold it in place. Please verify.
In addition, at what point during the mustang assembly process would these have been installed?
Thanks!
They were spot welded on. You can see other spot welds in your picture that are not in the circles .There are many more probably covered with paint ,grudge etc. The most important thing for you to know as it relates to a "concours restoration" is that it was installed before any painting was done anywhere.
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If that pic is of the originals from your car, it's too bad that area was replaced. On a factory K code, this is an area that you'd typically not want to disturb.
Was the snubber plate area also replaced?
Regarding Bob's reply, those spot welds would be visible from under the car.
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If that pic is of the originals from your car, it's too bad that area was replaced. On a factory K code, this is an area that you'd typically not want to disturb.
Was the snubber plate area also replaced?
Regarding Bob's reply, those spot welds would be visible from under the car.
Charles,
I am a bit confused by your reply. What do you mean the exhaust reinforcement plate spot welds would be visible from under the car?
The picture I added to my first post is not from my car. As for the snubber plate...I will have to check. Right now my car is in Boise and I am in Cheyenne.
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Charles,
I am a bit confused by your reply. What do you mean the exhaust reinforcement plate spot welds would be visible from under the car?
The picture I added to my first post is not from my car. As for the snubber plate...I will have to check. Right now my car is in Boise and I am in Cheyenne.
When looking under the car on the opposite side of where the plates attach, the spot weld indentations should be visible. Since a lot of this type of repair is done with mig welding, it's easy to notice replacement... and in the case of a K code, would raise issues with the legitimacy of the car.
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the spot welds sort of leave a burn mark on the opposite side which is visible as charles says. examine some of the spot welds in other places on the car and see what we are referring to.
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Your image shows what appear to be tack welds that are circled. I agree with Charles that unless there is no other option, I wouldn’t touch these if replacing the floor.
Here’s an image from mine showing one of the spot welds and looks like it may in your image also.
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Your image shows what appear to be tack welds that are circled. I agree with Charles that unless there is no other option, I wouldn’t touch these if replacing the floor.
Here’s an image from mine showing one of the spot welds and looks like it may in your image also.
My floor pan has been replaced already. I have a new one sitting in my kar now. I need to add these exhaust reinforcement brackets. How many spot welds do these reinforcement plates have?
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If that pic is of the originals from your car, it's too bad that area was replaced. On a factory K code, this is an area that you'd typically not want to disturb.
Was the snubber plate area also replaced?
Regarding Bob's reply, those spot welds would be visible from under the car.
Charles,
Looks like the snubber plate is in place. If I remember right we didn't replace the floor pan that far back. Does the cut out in the snubber plate take a rubber bumper? I can't remember. I know there is a rubber bumper on my pinion snubber bracket. Here is a picture.
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Charles,
Looks like the snubber plate is in place. If I remember right we didn't replace the floor pan that far back. Does the cut out in the snubber plate take a rubber bumper? I can't remember. I know there is a rubber bumper on my pinion snubber bracket. Here is a picture.
Question ,is the the picture of the floor of a K code / Shelby?
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Question ,is the the picture of the floor of a K code / Shelby?
My A-code GT had a very similar snubber plate as seen 2 posts above...
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My A-code GT had a very similar snubber plate as seen 2 posts above...
That is because your A code has a 8 inch rear end .
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Question ,is the the picture of the floor of a K code / Shelby?
Bob,
Yes sir. With your question I now realize my new floor pan must be for an 8” rear end. Note, my floor pan was switched out. Looks like I need to add this 9” snubber plate in the photo. SMH. Now I need to figure out how to take the 8” snubber plate of and replace it with the one in this photo.
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That is because your A code has a 8 inch rear end .
A code GT's had the same snubber plate as a K code, guess it was easier to use the same build-up for dual exhaust reinforcements.
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Bob,
Yes sir. With your question I now realize my new floor pan must be for an 8” rear end. Note, my floor pan was switched out. Looks like I need to add this 9” snubber plate in the photo. SMH. Now I need to figure out how to take the 8” snubber plate of and replace it with the one in this photo.
If this is an original K code, I'd hate to say it, but this is going to throw into doubt the legitimacy of the car now. The shop working on it should have known better.
Is the original floor totally gone? If not, hopefully the original snubber plate can be removed and welded on.
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Bob,
Yes sir. With your question I now realize my new floor pan must be for an 8” rear end. Note, my floor pan was switched out. Looks like I need to add this 9” snubber plate in the photo. SMH. Now I need to figure out how to take the 8” snubber plate of and replace it with the one in this photo.
The snubber plate is spot welded on . The car must have been very rusty for that transition section to need to be replaced along with the entire floor pan .I can only imagine what else . FYI a concours restoration as you previously mentioned you were having done would typically mean all of the plug welds would need to be disguised as factory spot welds .From the pictures of the metal in red oxide primer this apparently has not been done. On a K code this much metal replacement raises obvious questions.
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Gents,
I am doing a concours-level restoration as much as possible but that doesn’t mean all my welds were made to look factory. A man has his limits. In addition, It will be obvious the floor pan was changed out. There are many other indicators to prove the kar is a legitimate k-code. Let’s not get hasty about it’s authenticity. These are things that occur when restorations happen. These issues will be fixed and I’ll have a much better end product with your continued guidance. :)