ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Processes, Products & Techniques => Topic started by: craig429 on January 16, 2013, 02:50:04 PM
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After replacing fender aprons, or floors, what tricks have you found to replicate a factory spot weld? Pictures of your results would be great.
Craig
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Other than using an actual spot welder, some have used pencil eraser's and pressed them in a skim coat of body filler while still wet. Flat tip drills or something of that nature might also work.
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There are a couple of alternative methods to replicate a spot weld. Both are similar and are available from Eastwood http://www.eastwood.com One uses a MIG welder with a special attacing nozzle http://www.eastwood.com/spot-weld-nozzle.html the other an arc welder, also called a "stitch welder". Here's the link for the stitch welder http://www.eastwood.com/stitch-welder-welding-rods-not-included-1.html
No matter what method you chose, it is labor intensive. I've used the arc welder stitch welder and it works. You get better after the first 20 or so. Drilling a 1/16 to 1/8 inch dia hole first at the spot you want to make a "spot" weld is one trick. Very tight clamping is a must.
Jim
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Allot depends on where the panels are.
If on an edge (like the inner fender panels) you can make a small press, use a real spot welder or I use a modified set of vise grips.
If there is an access problem then you might have to rely on the filler and pencil trick (can use a sanding disc, paper hole punch and attach it to the pencil also)
Make sure to add some deflection in the metal - too telling (that its been faked or added) when the panels are all smooth and flat. Normally th ewelder was ripping the big heavy tool away from the panel heading to the next one before it released or rested the machine on the car.
Have some pictures but will have to wait until I can get at them
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A method I've seen demonstrated by Kevin Tezt was to use a round drift punch the same diameter as a weld mark. A couple of strikes on it with a hammer leaves a small round dent which resembles a spot weld.
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I did a tutorial on the Boss 302 site. Have a look.
http://www.boss302.com/smf/index.php?topic=60651.msg397750#msg397750
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Thank you for the tutorial. It is very helpful. Some panels have already be replaced so I may have to use one of the other mentioned methods but it will come in handy for other panels to be replaced.
I did try a drift punch, but I couldn't get very good penetration and it was tough keeping it in the same location. The problem could be is that I was punching at a plug weld.
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I bought a Lenco Spot-Welder off Ebay, used it, and then sold it for $100 more than I gave for it when I was done.
This spot welder doesn't pinch. It just has 2 pistols, one with a trigger. PUSH down pull the trigger and make 2 spot welds from 1 side.
(http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad350/bryancobb/DSCN0842-1.jpg)
(http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad350/bryancobb/DSCN1192.jpg)
(http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad350/bryancobb/el6.jpg)
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I bought a Lenco Spot-Welder off Ebay, used it, and then sold it for $100 more than I gave for it when I was done.
Bryan, how much did you give for it, if you don't mind me asking?
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Bought-- $250
Sold to a local body shop -- $350
Price now new @ $2500.
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Bought-- $250
Sold to a local body shop -- $350
Price now new @ $2500.
Wish I could find one for $250!