Topic: Seat side molding

[sparky65]

Anyone seen or used the reproduction side moldings for the front seats of a 67?  How do they compare to originals?  Are they made out of the same gauge metal?  How do they hold up?  My originals are a bit beat up and scratched.  I think they could probably be salvaged but I want to know if its worth spending the time on.

[kutzoh]

I'm interested in the answers you get Steve as I'm in the same boat with mine. I'd like to use my originals if possible - can anyone comment on how these are "restored".  Are they stainless that can be buffed to take care of scratches?

Thanks,

Greg

[dave6768]

I bought a repo pair about 12 years ago for my 67 and was relatively happy with them.  However, I'm unable to comment on what is currnetly available.

Dave

[C5ZZKGT]

3 years ago when my '65 was restored the seat trim was a problem. the common cheap repro was very bad and my restorer recommended agaist them.
I believe we ended up with Ford originals obtained from NPD, there might be some better ones on the market now, such as a Ford tooling, or quality reproduction fro Scott Drake.......

[sparky65]

So I bought the side moldings from CJ pony parts.  Its actually a Scott Drake product C7ZZ-6561616-AR. 
Here are my thoughts compared to the ones I have ( I believe, but cant confirm they are original):
1.  Finish seems wrong.  Mine have a shiny, mirror finish but the repro is more of a satin finish.
2.  Some issues with the stamping at the edges.  You can see in the pictures the top two outer corners are very sharp.  There is a ripple on the inside bend.
If it wasn't for the finish I think I could live with it.  The rest of the stamping seems good and the holes line up.  I guess I will send these back and try to repair mine unless some one tells me the finish should be satin.

[CharlesTurner]

Now you know why the NOS ones go for $75-100 ea.

[sparky65]

I imagine this pieces is anodized as well.  Any idea how easy they are to repair.  Mine just have a few scratches and small dings.  I was going to try to repair them.  I am kind of disappointed they went this far to get them right but then skimped on the finish.

[J_Speegle]

I imagine this pieces is anodized as well.  Any idea how easy they are to repair.  Mine just have a few scratches and small dings.  I was going to try to repair them.  I am kind of disappointed they went this far to get them right but then skimped on the finish.

Repairing them will mean taping out the dings (you will likely not get the flat that way) and sanding out the scratches or high spots. This will remove the anodizing in that area making it noticeable

Just did this on the window trim on the Cougar I'm playing with. Since it will not be restored I'll live with polished rather than anodized trim.  Just not the same

[sparky65]

I understand anodizing as a clear chemical conversion process so that the aluminum doesn't oxidize.  This is kind of the same discussion as the rocker moldings.  Cant the trim be polished and then use a clear coating for protection.  Looking at mine the anodizing is almost perfectly clear I would think you could get the same effect with a clear coat.  You would have to remove all the anodizing but I see there are chemicals available for that.

[Bob Gaines]

I imagine this pieces is anodized as well.  Any idea how easy they are to repair.  Mine just have a few scratches and small dings.  I was going to try to repair them.  I am kind of disappointed they went this far to get them right but then skimped on the finish.

I just wonder if they didn't know any better and instead of brite dip anodizing (like we were discussing on the other thread) went the regular (cheaper)route which left the finish duller. That is what a shiny 66 Shelby quarter window trim looked like after regular anodizing-dull . The restorer striped off the anodizing re polished and left it bare.   I wouldn't be surprised that if the anodizing was chemically striped off the repro seat trim and then the trim brite dip anodized that it wouldn't look like the OEM trim. A lot of trouble just to get it to look right and it may cost more then just buying a NOS service piece. Bob

[sparky65]

I just wonder if they didn't know any better and instead of brite dip anodizing (like we were discussing on the other thread) went the regular (cheaper)route which left the finish duller. That is what a shiny 66 Shelby quarter window trim looked like after regular anodizing-dull . The restorer striped off the anodizing re polished and left it bare.   I wouldn't be surprised that if the anodizing was chemically striped off the repro seat trim and then the trim brite dip anodized that it wouldn't look like the OEM trim. A lot of trouble just to get it to look right and it may cost more then just buying a NOS service piece. Bob

I called Drake and at first they said they should be highly polished.  Then they called me back and said no that's the way they are made and it sounds like it was a cost decision.  Although the person I talked to wasn't sure they were even anodized.  Your guess on no bright dip is probably correct.  So far Ive not found anyone in the north east that can do bright dip.  I stripped the anodizing on the back side of my original and tried polishing it.  This is going to take more practice.  Aluminum is way to soft and very easy to scratch.

[Bob Gaines]

I called Drake and at first they said they should be highly polished.  Then they called me back and said no that's the way they are made and it sounds like it was a cost decision.  Although the person I talked to wasn't sure they were even anodized.  Your guess on no bright dip is probably correct.  So far Ive not found anyone in the north east that can do bright dip.  I stripped the anodizing on the back side of my original and tried polishing it.  This is going to take more practice.  Aluminum is way to soft and very easy to scratch.

There are a number of places that can chemically strip the anodizing off. I would recommend that opposed to sanding especially on aluminum. You can always find some one advertising in the Hemmings "services offered "section that will do brite dip. That is a shame that they didn't do it the right way to begin with. The stamping look very comparable. Keep us posted. Bob

[sparky65]

There are a number of places that can chemically strip the anodizing off. I would recommend that opposed to sanding especially on aluminum.

I tried easy off oven cleaner.  Worked well.  Sprayed it on let it sit maybe 5-10 mins and then wiped it off.  The anodizing came right off.

You can always find some one advertising in the Hemmings "services offered "section that will do brite dip.

I'll take a look.

[Bob Gaines]

I tried easy off oven cleaner.  Worked well.  Sprayed it on let it sit maybe 5-10 mins and then wiped it off.  The anodizing came right off.

I'll take a look.

Thanks. I never would have thought it was that easy or to use that product. I will try that .Bob

[J_Speegle]

I tried easy off oven cleaner.  Worked well.  Sprayed it on let it sit maybe 5-10 mins and then wiped it off.  The anodizing came right off.

Yes it seems to work fine - had to sand some trim pieces the other day since I didn't have any oven cleaner at the shop The spray is allot easier