Topic: 1969 deluxe 4 spd console finish

[bbs428]

Hey all,

Had to get a reproduction center insert section for my 4 spd console, the one where the seatbelts plug into after UPS destroyed my restored original.    
But anyway, I noticed that the black portion of the new piece is darker and a bit more glossy black than the console itself, which I have cleaned and repainted with the accumatch # 384  67-73 Scott Drake black die paint.  It's quite noticable.

Question is - do I leave it alone or reshoot the reproduction center section to match the rest of the console?

Any info is appreciated,

Brett

[bbs428]

Answered my own question...

Looks like I was wrong.  Not the first time... 

Accumatch  #384  67-73 Scott Drake black interior die is used for vinyl seats and such.

Accumatch #L-4464  67-73 Ford black charcoal - Metallic interior paint is for the plastic/fiberglass trim pieces such as the center console.

Can anyone verify this is correct or can add their 2c worth?

Thought I was done with this job but now it looks like I got a bit more painting to do.   

Thanks,

Brett

[7Lscjracer]

I hope the adhesion is ok with that vinyl paint you used.
Before you repaint with the correct type and color on your good console, try the whole process on the broken part.
Hopefully there's no bad reaction.
I'd say the new top piece is glossier and darker because it's new.
After 40 years, an original is going to dull and fade some.
Is that why you painted it in the first place?
I'm just wondering because they're molded in color, so why paint, or did you have to change the color of a replacement?

[bbs428]

I hope the adhesion is OK with that vinyl paint you used.
Before you repaint with the correct type and color on your good console, try the whole process on the broken part.
Hopefully there's no bad reaction.
I'd say the new top piece is glossier and darker because it's new.
After 40 years, an original is going to dull and fade some.
Is that why you painted it in the first place?
I'm just wondering because they're molded in color, so why paint, or did you have to change the color of a replacement?

Stripped the vinyl die off the console parts and interior parts that were mis-painted,  so no reaction to the new paint.

Agreed that the new part is in much better condition paint wise.  That observation was what led me to believe I made a mistake in the fist place.    Yup - I painted all the hard interior pieces in vinyl dye.
Hey - at least I got the right year dye and as a topper - the seats, door panels and dash look marvelous. 

Since this is my first real attempt at anything this grand in scale (and costly) I gotta cut myself a little slack... But I sure wish I could have "discovered this $^&* up before I put everything back together. LOL! sometimes get the feeling that I've restored three vehicles - not just one. 

As to why - The drive train, engine bay, floorboards, trunk and interior was original and showing her age so over the last year we have been working her up to a concours driver standard. I was oil fouling # 4/8 cylinders last year and decided to rebuild the engine which led to all of this...

The busted console piece have been replaced and I want everything to match nicely so they look fresh and consistant with the other interior pieces. So everything possible has to be painted at the same time, under the same conditions.

Been having a horrible time being consistant with the Accumatch Black Charcoal Metallic.  It's a bugger to get a nice result on the bigger pieces. 
So much so that I am experimenting around with a urethane black charcoal metallic -a Porsche black metallic to be exact, that's modified a bit and mixed as a semi gloss.  Playing around with the % of reducer so as not to spoil the grain on the panels.  Should be a lot more "painter friendly".  If I'm successful, I'll post some pics of the results and share the modded paint code.

Thanks for the reply!

Brett

[7Lscjracer]

Been having a horrible time being consistant with the Accumatch Black Charcoal Metallic.  It's a bugger to get a nice result on the bigger pieces.

I always used Krylon semi-flat black for the metal dash and fiberglass rear seat area panels.
It's a forgiving paint, unlike some brands that are fussy about keeping the same distance otherwise the paint lands too dry as overspray instead of as a wet coat.
You had to work hard at getting it to drip too, and going over painted areas again as you worked on coating the part wasn't an issue.
It looked good, no one ever thought that I had repainted anything in the interior.

[J_Speegle]

Know its been mentioned many times in other threads but many of us lay a coat of semi-gloss black down before with apply the Charcoal. You have to be careful since too much black fills the grain and apply the Charcoal in two full but dry coats  since too many coats or too much paint will also fill the grain and or produce a shinny final finish

Saw a very very low mileage 70 Shelby last weekend - the insert (though different than the Mustang one - wanted to offer the observation) was a very different tone (much darker and more black IMHO) than the plastic black finish of the console body

[bbs428]

Too bad this paint doesn't go on as nice as the Krylon!    But I just can't shoot the interior in the Krylon semi-gloss.  I really want to nail the enterior color as close as I can and I love causing myself a lot of grief!

Nice to know the tone difference on the Shelby Jeff.  Noted.

Yes - I have a base coat of semi gloss black. Where I'm having difficulty is in application of the Accumatch lacquer charcoal black metallic. I get a bit to close and it go's glossy or for the most part it's OK).  Or on the second coat it will go glossy in spots, resulting in an uneven tone that looks amateurish. 

It's got me questioning my piss can paint skills.  Say that fast a few times...

Will lacquer thinner mess up the interior panel grain?  Tested some with a saturated cloth on the back with no visible melting or softning.  Some of the panels have been painted many times in the past.  Been careful up to now using easy off but it's slow to work with.

Thanks, Brett

[J_Speegle]

Will lacquer thinner mess up the interior panel grain?  Tested some with a saturated cloth on the back with no visible melting or softening.  Some of the panels have been painted many times in the past.  Been careful up to now using easy off but it's slow to work with.

Using lacquer thinner on the rear interior panels (plastic) of fastbacks is not something I would recommend - on metal parts no problem, just use a fine brush or steel wool  in a circular pattern to clean out all the grain. That is what has worked for me.

Yes some of its slow work - but being careful takes time, anyone can rush through and run the risk the possibility of destroying/damaging something - Been there

[jwc66k]

One thing to keep in mind, molded plastic items used by Ford in 1969, had the mold release as part of the raw plastic as opposed to a preliminary step of spraying the mold prior to the plastic added. What this means to you is that the plastic items do not accept paint, glue (epoxy) or solvent well. Paint and epoxy may not stick, and solvents react different. I went thru this about 10 years ago with a friend's 69 Sportsroof. I got some special epoxy, solvent and advice from TAP Plastics about this type of process. This mold release process applies to 1969 and on but may also have been used in 67 or 68. Consoles for 1966 and earlier use the spray in mold release process so epoxy, paint, solvent etc will stick.
Jim