Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models > Body, Paint & Sealers
Frame Repairing of Jack or Jackstand Damage
J_Speegle:
--- Quote from: socalgt on May 07, 2017, 08:32:20 PM ---For aesthetic purposes, for dents up to 1/4" or so, you can use the 2 part bonding adhesive for corvettes. .......
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Think the challenge is that so close to the edge of the dolly hole any filler would be easy to pick out since the edge of the hole would be inconsistent.
Just a thought. In other locations it might be an option
67gtasanjose:
Coincidently, I started this thread about 3 years ago and this is the VERY thing I will be working on this week. (Strange the thread took a hit at this time ;)). I have reviewed all of these ideas in my mind but hadn't read this thread since 2014 so I wen through it again, hoping something new will pop out. Still likening John's Angle best at this time. Perhaps this "Corvette" idea as a filler could prevent any breaking of the repaired areas from future lifting. I could consider this once I dolly out the damage.
J_Speegle:
--- Quote from: 67gtasanjose on May 08, 2017, 06:21:29 AM ---Coincidently, I started this thread about 3 years ago and this is the VERY thing I will be working on this week. (Strange the thread took a hit at this time ;)). I have reviewed all of these ideas in my mind but hadn't read this thread since 2014 so I wen through it again, hoping something new will pop out. ...
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If you choose to remove this (I would likely leave it but understand its not pretty) allot have found it easiest to open the top of the floor over the frame rail, heat and fix the dent then close up the floor after all is better
Bob Gaines:
--- Quote from: J_Speegle on May 08, 2017, 05:57:15 AM ---Think the challenge is that so close to the edge of the dolly hole any filler would be easy to pick out since the edge of the hole would be inconsistent.
Just a thought. In other locations it might be an option
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+1 . A up to a 1/4 thick edge around a dolly hole would stand out like a sore thumb to anyone familiar with the thickness of sheetmetal for frame rails IMO.
67gtasanjose:
--- Quote from: J_Speegle on May 08, 2017, 02:19:30 PM ---If you choose to remove this (I would likely leave it but understand its not pretty) allot have found it easiest to open the top of the floor over the frame rail, heat and fix the dent then close up the floor after all is better
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This is what I did. I welded close the flap and afterwards fiberglass mesh & resin over the slightly rusted right hand floor area to fill over some rust-through holes that revealed themselves after media blasting (only the INSIDE of the car was media blasted, the underside I left alone). The driver's side wasn't anywhere near as rusty so I simply coated the floor with resin to fill a few very tiny pin holes and smooth over the welded area and minor rust pitting. The underside of the passenger floor required some body filler to get things right. It all looks pretty good in primer right now so soon the underside will be painted the original salmon color.
As I get the underside of the car painted (maybe this weekend, if I do not get derailed again by 'life'), I should be able to share some images I took a few months back now and the results (if I like how things turned out ;) )
I'll try & update these two threads anyways of my floor repairs.
Link to another thread with more floorpan shots and frame rail shots included: http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=9184.new#new
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