Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models > Body, Paint & Sealers
Frame Repairing of Jack or Jackstand Damage
67gtasanjose:
--- Quote from: krelboyne on June 26, 2014, 03:14:10 PM ---There is another way.
Body shops weld pins to sections of metal and use a slide hammer type of tool to pull the dents out. At the completion of the job, the pins break off nearly flush. It would be a lot less invasive.
--- End quote ---
Probably what I intended on trying, but buying a tool for a few hour work, and then who knows how long before I need it again. (yet I am not sure how good it will pull this gauge of steel) I was thinking this approach could work with several "nails" spotted in and applying heat with a torch, (using the slip-grip attachment to move back and forth between the "nails")
Something like this is available at Harbor Freight. Has anybody bought one?
Richard
Here's a few reviews, anybody else use one for this EXACT task?
http://www.harborfreight.com/stud-welder-dent-repair-kit-98357.html
The car is on it's side on the rotisserie, so it it really easy to get to all sides of this at this time.
67gta289:
I've done AOTA (all of the above) and they all have their place. The stud welder/dent puller works where the dent is "kindler and gentler". If there are particularly hard dents (like those when a car is dropped on a jack stand or hit a curb) the strategically placed hole method or the cut out method Bob mentioned is what is needed because the stud welds won't do the job.
Talking through the cut out method in more detail, I get the thinnest cut off wheel that I can find, removing the least amount of material. Then cut one long and two short sides. Next I fold the metal over on the one long side not cut. This provides full access and you can do the best job over a large area. When done fold the metal back down and weld it up. With the one side uncut it will be perfecly placed, and with a thin cut the job goes easy. The weld clean up really is up to you as to how nice you make it.
I've used 3x3x1/4" angle iron supported by hydraulic jacks to provide something to pound against. Personally I would get to the point where very little filler is required. With proper access, proper back support, and some patience you might be surprised how good of a job can be done.
The hole method to me is ok for one or two dents, but depending on the hole size you could have quite a bit of area to cover. That is why I like the cut and fold method.
If you end up with a rust situation, look out for the replacement rails. Like most repop stuff, they can't seem to make it right. I did a pass side front rail and the replacement was 3/4" long, the sheet metal was thicker than original (obvious to the naked eye), and the dolly hole was off 1/2". Took a lot of prep work to make it look right.
Bob Gaines:
--- Quote from: krelboyne on June 26, 2014, 03:14:10 PM ---There is another way.
Body shops weld pins to sections of metal and use a slide hammer type of tool to pull the dents out. At the completion of the job, the pins break off nearly flush. It would be a lot less invasive. You could probably google it on youtube.
--- End quote ---
The frame rails are much thicker metal then the typical sheet metal this procedure was designed for. You will most likely pop the head off the pins before you pull the dent out of that frame rail metal flat unlike if you go after it from the back side . I have a shop that I work with that repairs frame rails regularly and speak from experience .
67gtasanjose:
--- Quote from: Bob Gaines on June 26, 2014, 05:21:05 PM --- The frame rails are much thicker metal then the typical sheet metal this procedure was designed for. You will most likely pop the head off the pins before you pull the dent out of that frame rail metal flat unlike if you go after it from the back side .
--- End quote ---
That is about what I was thinking too. Thanks Bob.
--- Quote from: 67gta289 on June 26, 2014, 05:14:50 PM ---
The stud welder/dent puller works where the dent is "kindler and gentler"... ;)
...I've used 3x3x1/4" angle iron supported by hydraulic jacks to provide something to pound against. Personally I would get to the point where very little filler is required. With proper access, proper back support, and some patience you might be surprised how good of a job can be done.
--- End quote ---
;D
And then John's idea with the Angle Iron, I like that idea too. The ones I need to work on are not too awfully deep, but since it IS the thicker metal, I had my doubts what was the best tactic. I have a few select other areas around the car that the dent puller discussed would help out on, so I'll likely get it anyways. Maybe give it a try and when (or if) it fails to help on the frame, I'll move swiftly into plan "B" and/or "C".
Thanks everyone for the input. Everybody's ideas closely matched up with what I was thinking but thought I'd ask from those who have gone there before me. Trying to be the least invasive as I can be.
Richard
TLea:
--- Quote from: Bob Gaines on June 26, 2014, 05:21:05 PM --- The frame rails are much thicker metal then the typical sheet metal this procedure was designed for. You will most likely pop the head off the pins before you pull the dent out of that frame rail metal flat unlike if you go after it from the back side . I have a shop that I work with that repairs frame rails regularly and speak from experience .
--- End quote ---
+1. The metal is too thick and studs will break at head
One point to remember, if the metal by dolly holes (#1 and 3 dollies) is bent downward it is most likely from rail ties and IMO considered original
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