ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1964 1/2 - 1965 => Topic started by: ChrisV289 on March 23, 2015, 08:57:38 PM
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So I want to fill out my own decal that sits near the starter solenoid. What would the typical charge reading be for the battery on a car with AC? The ones that come filled out appear to be 1.27 but I don't know if that is correct. Also what would the approximate date stamp be on it? Couple of days after the schedule build date? For instance mine has a build date 10/29/64, and the owner's manual is stamped it was sold new on 11/6/64. Some where in between there?
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Chris your asking about a San Jose built car - correct?
Since the answers are going to be different for some of these things
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Yes, and also forgot to include the engine is a 289 A code...
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Note - fixed the header of the thread ;)
Engine size doesn't have a bearing but thanks for including that
So I want to fill out my own decal that sits near the starter solenoid. What would the typical charge reading be for the battery on a car with AC? The ones that come filled out appear to be 1.27 but I don't know if that is correct.
Depends on what machine and how it was calibrated (what scale) it used. But it appears that on some of the stickers there is a dot indicating that they used the one that (for example) would ahve produced the 1.27 your referring to rather than 12.7 seen when using other tools of the time period. Allot of the stickers I've seen appear that the inspector never took the time to place the "dot" or it has not held up to the test of time and the elements.
Looking at originals, on the ones that are clear enough, it appears the range was between 1.25 and 1.27 normally
Also what would the approximate date stamp be on it? Couple of days after the schedule build date? For instance mine has a build date 10/29/64, and the owner's manual is stamped it was sold new on 11/6/64. Some where in between there?
These would normally IMHO match the date the car was completed on but since its a 65-66 we have not idea when that day really was. Lucky for you that you have at least a date of sale - a solid place to start for a educated guess. I would take the 6th - subtract a day or so for prep at the dealership, Figure out how far it was from the dealership to San Jose and assign hours or days to that purpose. It was pretty common (looking at 67 San Jose information) that a car would sit at San Jose before being released for transportation from one to four days so figure that into the formula. That should give you at least a rough guess and I would say the best guess based on what we have available today. Of course this is without knowing anything about the sale or dealership.
Hope this helps
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Thanks Jeff for the information. The car was sold at Downey Auto Center in Downey, CA. I'm guessing it would take a day or so to get there either by truck or rail.
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Thanks Jeff for the information. The car was sold at Downey Auto Center in Downey, CA. I'm guessing it would take a day or so to get there either by truck or rail.
Yes if by trunk then the driver likely had multiple stops and deliveries. If by rail then you have all the paperwork where they were unloaded, checks and then loading onto local trunks for delivery
Number of possible scenarios all that would add time but I would not worry too much - you'll never get it exactly right on the original date unless its by accident :)
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Depends on what machine and how it was calibrated (what scale) it used. But it appears that on some of the stickers there is a dot indicating that they used the one that (for example) would ahve produced the 1.27 your referring to rather than 12.7 seen when using other tools of the time period. Allot of the stickers I've seen appear that the inspector never took the time to place the "dot" or it has not held up to the test of time and the elements.
Looking at originals, on the ones that are clear enough, it appears the range was between 1.25 and 1.27 normally
Readings around 1.25 are the specific gravity of the battery acid, measured with a hydrometer. For batteries (and for checking coolant in radiators), the syringe-type is used. There are hydrometers that are immersed, but they can't be easily used in a battery or a radiator.
Specific gravity of the acid changes with charge, as does voltage, so they can both be used to check a battery. What's a bit confusing is that with a 12V battery the voltage is numerically about 10x the specific gravity, which makes it look like a misplaced decimal point.
What I don't know is: were batteries always checked for specific gravity, or were some measured with a voltmeter? Were batteries installed at the factory, or at the dealership after delivery? If the battery inspection was performed at the dealerships, was the label applied by the dealer, or at the factory and left blank? Did all dealerships use a standard stamp design to mark the "Badge" column, or did they each use whatever they wanted?
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the battery had to be installed at the plant in order to drive the unit off the line.
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What I don't know is: were batteries always checked for specific gravity, or were some measured with a voltmeter?
Specific gravity - as would be normal practice at the time. Don't recall ever using a volt meter to check a battery with a voltmeter in the 60's or early 70s when working at service stations or repair shops
Were batteries installed at the factory, or at the dealership after delivery? If the battery inspection was performed at the dealerships, ........
It was done at the assembly plant as carlite65 wrote
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ok so thanks for the info on the date. My car was built oct 8 1964. So I will guess a date a few days around there. Also are these stamped for thei nstpection ? I know all plants are different. I could order a completed decal from ESC, but I don't want to spend the money
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My car was built oct 8 1964.
Since that is really the 'scheduled' build date, there is no exact science to this. Looking at the sheet metal dates and component dates throughout the car can give an idea of just how close the actual build date was to the scheduled date.
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I know all plants are different.
And sometimes by year - sticker design changes also ;)
I could order a completed decal from ESC, but I don't want to spend the money
Since you know that they are different from plant to plant you'll know that the filled out on from ESC is not correct for your cars year or plant - think the cost itself is small considering all the more expensive things that have been or will be done on the car
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Since you know that they are different from plant to plant you'll know that the filled out on from ESC is not correct for your cars year or plant - think the cost itself is small considering all the more expensive things that have been or will be done on the car
well if the ESC stickers aren't filled out correctly for the plant, then why pay the money? I would rather scibble some random date and put a happy face stamp on the tag, and save the money
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well if the ESC stickers aren't filled out correctly for the plant, then why pay the money? I would rather scibble some random date and put a happy face stamp on the tag, and save the money
Was looking at it as two individual thoughts as the sentences were structured/written. Looked to be two separate issues
"I know all plants are different. "
"I could order a completed decal from ESC, but I don't want to spend the money"
Also the material they are made from is different from original - like many reproduction. But of course most owners don't want to buy a sticker that will look terrible or at least aged 6-12 months later
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Was looking at it as two individual thoughts as the sentences were structured/written. Looked to be two separate issues
"I know all plants are different. "
"I could order a completed decal from ESC, but I don't want to spend the money"
Also the material they are made from is different from original - like many reproduction. But of course most owners don't want to buy a sticker that will look terrible or at least aged 6-12 months later
oh I see so the info would be correct but the material the sticker is made of is wrong...
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oh I see so the info would be correct but the material the sticker is made of is wrong...
Sorry - no I should have written it clearer :(
1- The info stamped or written on the reproductions is not correct for your year
2- The material its made out of is different from original
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It was done at the assembly plant as carlite65 wrote
Thanks, I got lost in the discussion about delivery timing, etc. I take it that was an exercise to approximate the actual build date?
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Thanks, I got lost in the discussion about delivery timing, etc. I take it that was an exercise to approximate the actual build date?
Yes that was the attempt - Response #3
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Isn't the maximum of specific gravity of a car battery, 1.28 per cell?
Texas Swede
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how is the ecs sticker material different from original?
also, the ecs sticker is stamped 79 for inspector. not every car would have had that inspector so it become kinda cookie cutterish. is it best the buy a blank sticker and pick a random number for the inspector?
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I just took a number stamp, asked my wife what her favorite number was and made that my inspector number.. ;)
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how is the ecs sticker material different from original?
also, the ecs sticker is stamped 79 for inspector. not every car would have had that inspector so it become kinda cookie cutterish. is it best the buy a blank sticker and pick a random number for the inspector?
Yes I think you have discovered what allot of others have - that it appears to be a one size fits all product.
Those (reproductions as well as the ones through most of the mass marketers) are vinyl stickers were the originals were paper with an adhesive backing. Also ECS makes only one version of the stickers rather than all of them, used at other years and plants
ECS reproduction shows the stamping (way it was filled out) that seems to match 69-73 or so Dearborn inspectors not the other plant and years
Inspectors did not always used numbers to identify themselves. Just like paint inspectors (for examples) at San Jose some periods of time it was numbers, other times initials. For paint inspectors during other periods it was even a first or last name. Haven't documented names on inspection stickers as of yet ;)
As far as the rest of the information it again goes back to plant and time period. The CHARGE could be the hydrostatic reading in (if I remember correctly) 100's) or a simple OK. Dates would be hand written in black ink or pencil or stamp with or without a year. Just depends
edwardgt350 PM sent to see if I can help out
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jeff. pm sent