ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1967 Mustang => Topic started by: 1967 eight barrel on March 15, 2016, 01:33:54 PM
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What finish should be the clutch pivot frame bracket, bell crank and clutch pushrod be? The NOS engine pivot I have is zinc.
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bump... Jeff, Bob????
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What finish should be the clutch pivot frame bracket, bell crank and clutch pushrod be? The NOS engine pivot I have is zinc.
Bare steel originally on the assemblyline. Same with the Z bar.
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What would best replicate the finish? Gray, silver, cast metal?
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I would clean it with Evaporust and coat it in T9 to preserve it.
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I would clean it with Evaporust and coat it in T9 to preserve it.
+1 except cleaning it would involve taking the zinc plating off by a acid bath . If blasing i would tumble in a apropriate meda to bring the metal back to proper appearance and then " coat it in T9 to preserve it." I would not paint it because the paint will fail where bolts go through and at pivot points .
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That was my concern, durability long term. It seems all Ford service replacements are zinc plated, as well as the reproductions. Most of the reproductions don't have a welded pivot pin on the frame side either. Thanks for the information.
-Keith
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That was my concern, durability long term. It seems all Ford service replacements are zinc plated, as well as the reproductions. Most of the reproductions don't have a welded pivot pin on the frame side either. Thanks for the information.
-Keith
The Ford service versions changed to zinc plated in 1970 also.The repro market typically wrongly assumes that the last service replacement is good enough .
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1967 eight barrel first I would make sure you have the CORRECT 67-68 vs 69-70 Z-bar brackets as in your first post you said you had a nos zinc frame side bracket & the only zinc plated ones I seen were service replacements from late 70s-80s era as ford sold the 69-70 type to replace the 67-68 type after 69. I have never seen nos 67-68 brackets unless they were ordered back in 67-68. I pointed this out years ago to some 67 Shelby guys & they never noticed the difference & the MPC calls the change out but never changed the # to a c9zz instead still used the (frame side) c7zz-7507-a & changed it to a - b & (block side) c7zz-7a572-a & changed it to a -b also. The brackets are same design but the adjustment holes changed from 67-68 to 69-70 FE engines. The 67-68 had round hole on frame side & slotted adjustment on the block side vs 69-70 frame side slotted adjustment & block side round hole. So you need to pair them up to be correct & the 67-68 versions are harder to find. Marty I agree with you on the evaporust cleaning as you can save original plating & metal finnishs (depending on the condition they are in) by soaking part in older used weaker evaporust & don't let the part soak TOO long & when you remove part wash off with water then dry & oil. When you first remove the part from soaking DONT rub the part with anything as you will remove the plating just water rinse part off & if part isn't clean enough resoak part longer. We use this method when cleaning parts for survivor cars but had some parts clean-up good enough that didn't need replated.
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Well, I definitely have the service replacement, being the adjusting slots are oval, (left to right.) I noted the cheap over seas reproductions coming in are just pressed in and not welded. There is a LOT of pressure on those pivots, and I see the splined pressed in pivot stud wearing quickly on vehicles driven more often.
-Keith
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kieth are you doing a concours resto as I have some 67 brackets in my inventory ?
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Ed, for the most part, yes.
-Keith
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are both of your brackets 69-70 as we know the nos service frame one is?
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Ed,
I don't know the difference on the block side. As a matter of fact I wasn't aware there was any difference until Bob had mentioned it. Pictures would be helpful.
-Keith
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Ed,
I don't know the difference on the block side. As a matter of fact I wasn't aware there was any difference until Bob had mentioned it. Pictures would be helpful.
-Keith
I took a quick picture. Of course the chassis side is not adjustable like the 6970 version.
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I noted the side oiler block in the picture...My bracket is the same.
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I noted the side oiler block in the picture...My bracket is the same.
That is all I had handy to illustrate position. That bracket is the assemblyline unit.
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Bob, No need to explain. I just had sharp eyes and noted the location of the galley plugs. ;D Seeing an original frame bracket would be nice. I know what I have is Ford, it's just the question of if it is a replacement, which based on the description is.
-Keith
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Although this post wandered into the BB linkage, the section in which it's located is just 67 Mustang.
So I'll dive into some 289 SBF stuff (unless we should start another thread)?
In the 60-68 MPC there is a section called "7521 ROD - CLUTCH PEDAL TO EQUALIZER BAR."
On the next page is a section called "7521 ROD - EQUALIZER BAR TO CLUTCH RELEASE LEVER."
Ford decided that the two parts should have the same section number. You might find this confusing -- I did.
If you look for a 67 equalizer bar to clutch release lever in the 60-68 MPC it appears you can only buy it as a two piece unit -- the swivel nut and the adjustment threaded rod as the 7521 illustration points to both pieces.
If you look through the 65-73 MPC there is a new section called "SWIVEL - 7A528 - CLUTCH RELEASE IDLER LEVER ADJUSTMENT" in which the swivel is called out as C8OZ-7A528-A r/b DOZZ-7A528-A.
I have the original worn out swivel and mine is threaded. It appears that the aftermarket (ACP) offers a threaded and non-threaded swivel. I opted for the threaded swivel. I found an original threaded rod as NOS.
Like others all of the above parts are plated, which I will remove to get back to bare metal.
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In the 60-68 MPC there is a section called "7521 ROD - CLUTCH PEDAL TO EQUALIZER BAR."
On the next page is a section called "7521 ROD - EQUALIZER BAR TO CLUTCH RELEASE LEVER."
Bill,
I had this same situation on my (sold) 66 GT Fastback with a 4 speed. This is one of the few instances where the description of the item is more important than the Ford base number. If they had said "upper" and "lower" in the description (in parenthesis) it would have clarified the application just a little bit better.
To make you feel better, and to show your disdain to Ford for this travesty, sell your Ford stock.
Jim
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Don't get me started on the SNAFU of the upper and lower clutch springs in the engine bay. If you go to buy the upper you get a lower.
Anyway, taking stock of my now assembled assembly with a screw type swivel nut: