ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Misc Items => Topic started by: Anghelrestorations on July 10, 2010, 02:12:20 PM
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Some pictures of the rebuild I just finished on this brake assembly done for a 69 Mach 1...with the correct plating on the mounting bracket. The rebuild itself was not that difficult, but taking it apart takes patience since most of these have a good amount of corrosion. First picture shows a comparison with what most of these look like that I have taken off cars.
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z213/azscj/P7100201.jpg)
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z213/azscj/P7100210.jpg)
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z213/azscj/P7100204.jpg)
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Very nice work! How did you do the plating if I may ask?
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For the plating you have to plate the whole assembly and then I went back and removed the plating from everything else except the bracket. The rest of the assembly is simply a brass block. Just takes alot of time.
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Very nice work, I sent mine out to WHITE POST RESTORATIONS who rebuilt my power brake booster, master cylinder and proportioning valve. They came recommenced by a known restorer as they specialize in brake system restorations. I was told the parts would be rebuilt and look new with correct plating. The bill was $750.00 and the I am not positive this is my original master cylinder and the plating on the proportioning valve was sandblast and clearcoat which of course is dead wrong. I should have done this myself as well, however sometimes in a full restoration I would like to send some parts out to people that specialize in the restoration of small parts like brake, A/C and instrumentation. I sent out my A/C heater/evaporator case to CLASSIC AUTO AIR and they sent me back the wrong blower case, the evaporator case came back damaged and was sent back.The original screws that attach parts to the evaporator case were tossed in favor of some hardware store type screws. I sent my gauges and cluster housings to AUTO INSTRUMENTS and they did a nice job on the plastic chrome work and the silk screening of the gauges but the clock was stuck and the mileage was not set to zero as I requested and one of the gauge lenses was crooked, they at least showed a genuine interest in my issues and did make it good. I know I am rambling here but the point I am making is if it's at all possible to do something yourself, that is the best way. unfortunately sometimes this is not possible due to the type of equipment and skills needed to restore these parts. Again, very nice job!
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Nice job Marcus!!
Thanks for sharing
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Adding a picture of the assembly mounted in the car.
As for White Post I have had similiar experience working with them. I think they probably do a good job with rebuilds in general, but either dont understand or care to take the time and effort that you can do on your own when restoring pieces to a correct original fit and finish. So I stopped sending them work.
(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z213/azscj/P7110221.jpg)
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What did you use to get the zinc dichromate plating off the brass? I've had mixed results with some techniques.
Also, I have found that using a small torch on the brass brings gives it a nice patina to make it look freshly made. Of course, it will melt any plating, so be careful if you decide to try it.
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Some of your brake lines look original, are you using a mixture of old and new? Some of those nuts look new with the old lines.
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To take the zinc dichromate off of the brass block I am glass beading (actually use Zinc Oxide media). I tape off the bracket with a special metallic tape that 3M makes...its about $30 per roll but it can stand up to the pressure of the media.
The brake lines are all new. I am using Dot5 brake fluid so there is never any issues with brake fluid ruining the paint, so at that point it is simply easier to change the brake lines themselves as well. These brake lines are as close to original as I could get...paying special attention to color codes of the fittings.