ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1967 Mustang => Topic started by: Angela on February 12, 2017, 05:58:43 PM
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Does anyone have a "how to" article they could share concerning installation of the 67-68 clips & stainless steel glass moldings? I'm not very good at finding the right search strings to find previously discussed topics in this form (I usually use google "glass moldings site:www.concoursmustang.com").
I found a couple you tube videos that were blurry and I couldn't tell how they were installing the clips. It appeared that getting the bottom and top trim pieces was tricky, meaning that once the clips engaged you couldn't slide the trim left or right. I also read that it's very easy to damage paint unless you have someone to help you. I don't have help, so I'm pausing to post this in hopes of learning more before I try it alone.
I have my stainless all polished up and I have new clips from AMK. I just need some advice concerning how to install these pieces. Thanks.
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Angela...I am about to embark on the same task and look forward to any replies that you receive. From watching youtube, I learned that it is a good idea to mark, with tape, where the clips are located so efforts to "clip" the molding are concentrated at the right location. Mustangs to fear suggested that the clips be flattened slightly before installation. He explains that flattening the clips makes it easier to "clip" the molding. I haven't done this yet, so I don't know if flattening is a good suggestion or even necessary.
I also learned to use tape around the perimeter. This makes me nervous as I don't want the tape to peel the paint. Fortunately for me, the car I am working on has a vinyl top, so I only have to be concerned about the paint on one edge. However, I can't help but think the vinyl top will pose its own challenges with the extra thickness.
Again, I look forward to any suggestions the experts can offer.
Mark
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Just put in the back glass and did the windshield a while back. Watched tons of videos and Mustangs to Fear (2 parts) I thought was best. Windshield was a little trickier, but the suggestion to slightly loosen the tension on the clips allowed most of the trim to snap in without extreme potentially damaging pressure. Marking the clip locations with tape is a GOOD idea since you can't always see the exact locations when you are snapping in the trim. Paint shouldn't peel with blue tape. With vinyl you have to be careful with the sharp edges on the trim and if you use a block to tap the trim into place so you don't nick the vinyl. Also had to clear the vinyl a little wider around the clip studs but other than that did not find that the vinyl posed any particular challenges. Here's the link to the MtF video
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vr7Prioj9Xo
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It's a good idea to test fit the moldings on the clips before the glass goes in. There really is no adjustment on the clips, the moldings only fit in one position. This would an opportunity to make sure your clips are nice and tight so there are no surprises when the glass is in.
As others have mentioned, use lots of tape to keep from scratching/chipping paint.
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Thank you....temperatures are supposed to be a little warmer this weekend so I might get to install the glass. Any thoughts on which glass would be easier to start with - front or rear?
I didn't realize the moldings could be test fitted without the rubber/glass in place. Thank you Charles.
Lastly, any advice or recommendation on the size nylon pull rope?
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Wow, thanks a ton for the mustangs-to-fear video link! Very helpful, specifically the part about relieving stress from the molding clips.
At about 1 minute, 45 seconds into the video (link above), the installer discusses bending these clips. He then shows use of a tool to aid installing these clips. Is anyone familiar with this tool and where to purchase one?
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You can probably get it almost anywhere. I made my own out of 3/4: square nylon.
I buy the nylon at a scrap yard and have made a few cool tools.
Chris
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/6/2850-150217145342-6768457.jpeg)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/6/2850-150217145339-67671415.jpeg)
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"You can probably get it almost anywhere. " Um, OK, what's the tool called? I've done some searching but all I find are the clip removal tools, not an installation tool.
I did see a 4-pc kit from Harbor freight, but it's not clear to me if this would work: http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-windshield-door-trim-tool-set-38386.html
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door panel clip tool works perfect
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door panel clip tool works perfect
+1 Even 2 flat tip screwdrivers held together can do the trick.
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You should by the tools from Harbor Freight.
Tool #2 can be used to install the clips and tool #3 is used to remove the molding once installed.
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/6/2850-160217073337.jpeg)
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What ever metal tool you select, wrap electrical tape around the area that comes in contact with the car. You'll thank me later.
Jim
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Lisle door panel tool available at O'Reilly
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/LIS0/35400/N1693.oap?ck=Search_N1693_-1_-1&pt=N1693&ppt=C0063
Perfect fit for the clips
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What ever metal tool you select, wrap electrical tape around the area that comes in contact with the car. You'll thank me later.
Jim
This is why I use the nylon home made tool.
I just installed both front and back windows and moldings. It looks like a big job but don't be intimidated. Take your time and don't be in a rush. If it takes two day then it takes two days. If the moldings don't snap in with ease there is a reason. It could be anything from a bent molding edge to something behind the molding or a clip twisted. Go slow. There is no need to pound on the molding to get it to snap in place.
Keep in mind installing the clips after the window/rubber gasket are in place is much more difficult that installing them before the window goes in.
Chris
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Thank you...excellent advice.
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I started down the path of installing molding clips, hoping to install the molding last weekend. I didn't get very far, yet thought I'd post what I learned.
The MTF video (link above, watch both part I and II) was useful, I followed the advice about relieving a little stress from the clips and I think that will help a lot. The second video discusses use of a urethane sealer between the outside surface of the glass and the rubber seal. I had not sealed this surface and am now wondering if I should. Actually, since I found black sealer underneath both sets of original molding I own, I have a couple questions:
(a) Did the factory apply sealant between the body and the glass rubber (the void where the clips reside) and if so, what are you guys using?
(b) Is it recommended, as in the MTF video, to seal the rubber to the glass on the outside surfaces? If yes, do you agree with the urethane recommendation?
In the meantime, I test fitted all of my polished moldings and found that I had more fitment issues that I recall before I started polishing. The worst fitment issue I found was with the front glass, the bottom molding.... the curvature of the (original Ford, but not original to this car) piece I used isn't even close. I went back to my original lower molding and the curvature much more closely matches the car. That piece had a few dings, but I guess I'll start removing dings and polishing that piece. Ugh.... polishing these things takes forever!
On the rear glass, I also wasted a bunch of time before I realized the *longer* of the two horizontal pieces goes at the BOTTOM. :-) That little tidbit might save someone some time. :-)
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Angela
The AM calls for the same sealant used in the gasket grove to be applied around the gasket after the window and gasket are installed. Its the same soft Butyl sealant.
Urethane was used when the manufacturers started relying on the window glass to be structural. Its the same idea as drywall. The studs by themselves are not as strong as after the sheetrock is installed. Engineers refer to it a tension and compression.
I have read many threads where people are using urethane on a car with a rubber window gasket. I'm not going to entertain the reasons except to say that's not the way it was done from the factory.
I did it the way the AM showed it. Personally I found that it went in easily and cleans up easily with a dry rag, just as the manufacturer recommends.
Chris
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Chris, thanks for the response. I try hard to follow the concours path.... but man is the 3M bedding & glazing compound messy!... I hate that it never dries. Is this the same stuff you used?
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I'm sure its the same stuff. The fact that is takes a long time to dry(years) is why it works so well. Also you have a larger window of opportunity to clean it off. If you see some you missed in a month grab a rag and wipe. Believe me, butyl is far easier to clean up than urethane.
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/6/2850-200217162332-67882460.jpeg)
As indicated on the back use a dry rag to clean up
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/6/2850-200217162333-6789226.jpeg)
I always go around first with a plastic scraper to remove most of the excess compound, then start rubbing off the remaining compound with cotton rags(old shirts cut up). Don't use paper towel. The trick here is LOTS of small rags. ;) Keep the clean part of the rag against the glass. When is stops removing compound, turn the rag over or inside out as needed. I usually tackle an area about 4 inches long with each of these mini rags, then grab a new one and keep going. As I said previously it takes time and patience.
All tolled I spent about three hours installing my back and front windows. I'm not as young as I used to be so laying across the fold down and wiping over my head is slow going at times. As a matter of fact I quit about two weeks ago and I still need to get back in there and do one final wipe. Another hour and I should be done.
If you find it difficult to remove from the rubber gasket you can use a rag dampened with mineral spirits and then wipe with a dry rag.
I used about 100 of these small rags to do both my front and back windows. Special thanks to the little woman for cutting them up although I am missing one of my favorite old shirts. :(
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/6/2850-200217162334-6790316.jpeg)
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Simon, my glass guy, says 3M 08509 is the stuff to use on older Mustangs (he has a few).
Jim
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Thanks for the application techniques for the 3M 08509.
I cannot tell, from the assembly manual, did Ford also apply bedding compound/sealer to (a) the surface between glass rubber seal & the body, specifically where the molding clips reside?
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Best to find out about molding fit issues now before stringing in the glass and mucking up everything with bedding compound.
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Best to find out about molding fit issues now before stringing in the glass and mucking up everything with bedding compound.
(see reply #15)