ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Misc Items => Topic started by: preaction on August 16, 2019, 12:19:03 PM
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I realize this subject is touched on from time to time but invariably it touches on how dangerous these tools can be I've had this spring compressor for about 20 years and as a hobbyist it seemed to fit my needs fairly priced and seemingly well built I used it to disassemble and reassemble two cars just last week I removed a front coil spring and placed it on the ground to unwind the compression and it popped apart to my surprise the 1 1/2" of threads on the bottom of the tool stripped there were no signs of a failure coming.
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Thanks for sharing
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This is my home made coil spring compressor. It uses a 5/8-11 threaded rod with the threads greased. The third picture is the Ford compressor which is the design I copied. The double ended clamp types are dangerous. Their only feature is you "should" be able to remove the spring without removing the upper "A" arm.
In a "practical" demonstration, I had my side off while the clamp type side was still being installed.
Pic 1 - parts.
Pic 2 - assembled
Pic 3 - Ford compressor
Jim
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Jim, I remember about yours and others using a 5/8-11 ATR my tool was also 5/8-11 ATR that was greased.
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Looks like you got your money's worth. Time to buy a new one.
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Working with coil springs has always scared me. When I have to do it I go very carefully.
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Working with coil springs has always scared me. When I have to do it I go very carefully.
FEAR can be subjective.
For example, people who work for the electric company, have to work on "live" wires at times. Safety precautions combined with respect for the power to injure, maim or kill, helps a person to "keep it between the navigational beacons" .
I also would not suggest having Jimmy Buffet help you with your coil springs
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I realize this subject is touched on from time to time but invariably it touches on how dangerous these tools can be I've had this spring compressor for about 20 years and as a hobbyist it seemed to fit my needs fairly priced and seemingly well built I used it to disassemble and reassemble two cars just last week I removed a front coil spring and placed it on the ground to unwind the compression and it popped apart to my surprise the 1 1/2" of threads on the bottom of the tool stripped there were no signs of a failure coming.
You describe the spring as having "popped" apart. I understand you were surprised by this action.
Can I assume that it did not fly across the shop at warp speed?
At anytime were you concerned for you safety?
Just trying to understand why that type compressor is perceived as dangerous.
Chris
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Chris I had just finished compressing the spring and removed it from the car I set it on the ground to put my foot on the spring as I unwound the tension which amounted to about 3 turns when threads on the bottom half of the tool failed and the spring traveled about 3 or 4 feet probably the best place this could have happened, I wont hesitate to replace one of these in the future. I never thought this was a tool that would fail or was dangerous I believe it wasn't designed to be used as many times as I used it which wasn't many.
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Made over seas?
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Is that a square thread? Which part failed male or female? Curious because I have same style.
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It was made in Taiwan and the ATR pulled out the threads in the bottom block.
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Hi Paul, I use this Snap on compressor. I bought it in the 1980's and it's still going strong. you can take the shock out, drop the compressor thru the tower and hook the spring, lay the fork across the top of the tower, and using an impact gun on the compressor, pull the spring up into the tower. You can also slide the fork thru the spring if you want to remove the spring while compressed. I also have the ford compressor, but it's more of a hassle to use. I'm sure you can't get it from ford anymore, but OTC makes a quality copy.
I'd NEVER use a cheap offshore spring compressor, to much stored energy in the spring when compressed, and nothing good happens when the compressor fails .....
https://www.ebay.com/p/Snap-on-WA92-Coil-Spring-Compressor-2-PC/1422975810?iid=173971459077&chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=173971459077&targetid=593772336413&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1025197&poi=&campaignid=1689799129&mkgroupid=66574332395&rlsatarget=pla-593772336413&abcId=1140466&merchantid=6296724&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoLHfk5qN5AIVD1qGCh3stQSSEAQYBCABEgIILfD_BwE
Here's the OTC version of the Ford style tool. Probably offshore, but high quality ....
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7045B-Front-Spring-Compressor/dp/B000GTJ5I8
Hope this helps, John
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Thanks for posting them John I wouldn't have never thought using a tool like this as a hobbyist would have ever turned out like this so posting about what happened to get the word out about a tool of this type. I got one of the Snap-on types very good tool.
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I’ve used this same type also.
Don’t know how many times I’ve used it , but at least 10 different compressions.
I noticed the threads getting “worked “ and became concerned as well. Just purchased another and will watch it also for wear.
The snap on puller looks to be well worth the asking price.
FWIW I just used this same style compressor to pull the coil springs from a ‘70 Cougar Q code.
After 12 and maybe only 250-300 miles I didn’t think the coils were going to “settle in”
I had ordered original spec springs from Detroit Eaton with my exact options.
Needless to say , only real fix was to take springs out and cut them down and reinstall
After much research I ended up cutting 3/4 of a full coil to drop the front about 1 1/2
Crazy how I had to make a wooden wedge to open coils enough to get compressor hook inside, as well as the Scott Drake coil spring perch bushings were TOAST!
SPOOKY Stuff!
The stance now sits much better.
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It was made in Taiwan and the ATR pulled out the threads in the bottom block.
The threads are ACME (square) threads, which is good. Standard 60 degree threads should not be used in a high load/safety application like this. The threads in the nut stripped completely out, indicating that an insufficiently hard grade of steel was used, or possibly the heat from welding the assembly together annealed the nut and thus weakened the threads. I would be wary of any puller with a welded assembly.
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The threads are ACME...
I've watched too many Roadrunner cartoons to trust anything from ACME, sorry.
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That's "ACME Road", the other is "ACME Screw", although they may be one in the same.
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I've built a few spring compressors, but never liked them much. I don't trust the all-thread versions since I have no idea who manufactured it and what grade it might be.
Like the others you can come across the Snap-on versions which are just designed and built so well all the others I built are now in the parts bin.
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The nice part about the Snap On compressor is that you can use it like you did in the picture to remove the spring, or if your just servicing the upper arm / spring saddle you can just take out the shock, drop the hook side thru the shock hole, then slide the fork over the rod and lay it on top of the tower. It will pull the spring up into the tower and you can service the arm. That compressor, coupled with an air gun makes the job a breeze ....