ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1969 Mustang => Topic started by: emptys on October 21, 2014, 04:36:05 PM
-
The images on the this site are great to sort out how the car is painted, but even with all the details, i still have some questions, these all refer to a dearborn 10/11/68 428 GT mustang
I have the dolly spacers ready, but in some of the images it seems as if no grey-slop actually made it onto the rear frame rail. For example in Jeff's article on reproducing dolly marks, on the last page, the rear frame rail looks like it natural, or maybe galvanized, with a hint of body color overspray. I had thought the rear frame rails would be covered with grey-slop, is that not the case?
I'm thinking this car would be one of the cars in the time-range where the front clip would be grey-slop, not red-oxide, under engine black... as i've seen on cobrajetchris' front clip images, would that be correct in for this early 69?
This is an early mustang, i'd like some clarification on the lower windshield black-out. AFAIK, i'm thinking this car would cowl painted body color, but lower windshild would be blacked out. Is this blackout the same as in the engine bay, or is it different?
I've seen several posts mentioning pinch-weld blackout, would there be anywhere on the car where pinch-weld would have been blacked out? I'm thinking no, but better to ask...
Does the front of the transmission tunnel stay natural? If so, where does the grey-slop start?
I've seen picture of the door plates getting painted on the cowl, with the shadows left showing a different color. what should show up in the shadow? is it natural, or something else? Additionally, where on the cowl were these placed when there were painted? The images i've seen don't really give a left/right cowl side location). Finally, the images all show the shadow four small plates, but i'm only aware of two plates at the back of the door which need to be painted. What are the other two plates?
Is there overspray on the inside door sound deadener? Are the passenger wheel wells interior color (red in this case), or body color (white for this car)
in the trunk area, i've seen images of sound deadener applied to the left/right inside quarter panels near the front wheel well. Is this underneath body paint, or on top of body paint?
I've noticed in some images, what seems to be black painted bolts on the shock tower side of the export brace. Should be be some other finish, or are they painted over?
Thanks in advance!
-
I have the dolly spacers ready, but in some of the images it seems as if no grey-slop actually made it onto the rear frame rail. For example in Jeff's article on reproducing dolly marks, on the last page, the rear frame rail looks like it natural, or maybe galvanized, with a hint of body color overspray. I had thought the rear frame rails would be covered with grey-slop, is that not the case?
Normally the rear frame rails and the floor on either side would have been sprayed from below unless the a jet plugged up. With that said the jets normally stopped just before the rear frame rail which would leave a light to heavy overspray from the application from there backwards. With the elements taking their toll over the years it often looks like no paint was applied to the area - but now replaced with surface rust or worst
I'm thinking this car would be one of the cars in the time-range where the front clip would be grey-slop, not red-oxide, under engine black... as I've seen on cobrajetchris' front clip images, would that be correct in for this early 69?
Since we are focusing on Oct only at that plant, yes there is a good chance that yours was painted the same (non- red oxide) on the firewall forward area of the unibody IMHO
This is an early mustang, i'd like some clarification on the lower windshield black-out. AFAIK, i'm thinking this car would cowl painted body color, but lower windshield would be blacked out. Is this blackout the same as in the engine bay, or is it different?
Don't have any cars that early at Dearborn (through at least 9F145xxx at a quick look) with the opening blacked out. Allot of restorers still do it inside the car to eliminate the body color showing around the dash pad
I've seen several posts mentioning pinch-weld blackout, would there be anywhere on the car where pinch-weld would have been blacked out? I'm thinking no, but better to ask...
Normally the pinch weld black out was applied to the pinchweld starting in the front wheelwell (fender not installed yet) to the rear wheelwell opening then starting again after the wheel wells to where the rear valance would be pulled in later in the assembly. There are original cars out there where sometimes behind the wheelwells were missed as well as some where the black out climbed up the outside surface on the quarter panel when a worker possibly slipped with the mask or gun
Does the front of the transmission tunnel stay natural? If so, where does the grey-slop start?
No all bottom surfaces would have gotten sprayed normally - unless a jet got plugged or someone disconnected the trip switch that applied the paint/primer
The floor color starts where the firewall black paint ends since the black was applied over the floor color. The paint can be thin if the painter of the engine compartment didn't bend over much leaving a thin area but would not suggest reproducing this look (surface rust) unless you documented it on your car. Transition was normally somewhere in the area where the firewall goes from vertical to the angle to the floor panel. The black normally fades out somewhere in that short distance
I've seen picture of the door plates getting painted on the cowl, with the shadows left showing a different color.
Most of the time it appears the cowl was the favorite place while on a few occasions they have been found elsewhere on the body. No one will see the area after the car is assembled
what should show up in the shadow? is it natural, or something else? Additionally, where on the cowl were these placed when there were painted? The images I've seen don't really give a left/right cowl side location).
Most of the time it looks like they were placed there after the grey surface coat. On the cowl the thickness of this layer can be thin showing red oxide through at times but that could also be due to some rubbing or cleaning of the surface. I've often found them on the passenger side of the cowl
Finally, the images all show the shadow four small plates, but I'm only aware of two plates at the back of the door which need to be painted. What are the other two plates?
Must be looking at examples from coupes and convertible ;)
Is there overspray on the inside door sound deadener? Are the passenger wheel wells interior color (red in this case), or body color (white for this car)
What interior package did the car have? Body color or interior color overspray?
Not sure what passenger wheel wells are
in the trunk area, I've seen images of sound deadener applied to the left/right inside quarter panels near the front wheel well. Is this underneath body paint, or on top of body paint?
Are you asking about the trunk sound deadener applied in the trunk behind the wheel well? Guessing just a typo
Sound deadener in the trunk like the rear wheel wells was applied before body color was applied over it
'I've noticed in some images, what seems to be black painted bolts on the shock tower side of the export brace. Should be be some other finish, or are they painted over?
No bolts on the front end of the car were installed when the car was being painted - you must be looking at with cars that have been played with or other cars not fully restored
Hope this helps
-
Most of the time it appears the cowl was the favorite place while on a few occasions they have been found elsewhere on the body. No one will see the area after the car is assembled
Most of the time it looks like they were placed there after the grey surface coat. On the cowl the thickness of this layer can be thin showing red oxide through at times but that could also be due to some rubbing or cleaning of the surface. I've often found them on the passenger side of the cowl
Must be looking at examples from coupes and convertible ;)
Ah right, it was a convertible! got it, thanks!
What interior package did the car have? Body color or interior color overspray?
Not sure what passenger wheel wells are
Standard (dark red) interior.
Sorry, oops, i mean the interior area, driver side and passenger side, behind the vent area.
Are you asking about the trunk sound deadener applied in the trunk behind the wheel well? Guessing just a typo
Sound deadener in the trunk like the rear wheel wells was applied before body color was applied over it
yes, the area furthest ahead on the quarter panel, adjacent to the wheel well...
-
Is there overspray on the inside door sound deadener? Are the passenger wheel wells interior color (red in this case), or body color (white for this car)
Standard (dark red) interior.
Sorry, oops, i mean the interior area, driver side and passenger side, behind the vent area.
Interior color would have been applied before exterior paint and then masked on only a couple of surfaces. A pillars and (if standard interior) the bottom of the doors below the door panel area. No interior color is typically found on the A pillar/interior cowl surface below the windshield opening
in the trunk area, I've seen images of sound deadener applied to the left/right inside quarter panels near the front wheel well. Is this underneath body paint, or on top of body paint?
yes, the area furthest ahead on the quarter panel, adjacent to the wheel well...
During your time period and plant it appears that they were still applying sound deadener to the inside surface prior to painting the body color at the rear int he trunk and (on a sportroof) behind the B pillar and below the rear quarter windows to reduce the noise. This forward area rarely sees much paint over it other that some overspray since there are no panels directly in front of it that received direct application of body color
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/2/6-221014203200.jpeg)
-
I noticed the new library article about interior color paint, that's a great addition.
I'm also like to verify what paint was used on other parts of the interior. For example, is the roof of the interior painted exterior color? What about the front floors or passenger area? i seem to recall some controversy about the paint color behind the kick panels -- should this be the exterior color?
-
I noticed the new library article about interior color paint, that's a great addition.
I'm also like to verify what paint was used on other parts of the interior. For example, is the roof of the interior painted exterior color? What about the front floors or passenger area? i seem to recall some controversy about the paint color behind the kick panels -- should this be the exterior color?
No direct application of exterior color in the interior, what ends up there is a result of exterior panel application when resulted normally on more on the lower and floor panels (those surfaces not masked off depending on model and body type.
Over that we do have examples of "black out" depending as usual on plant, body style and model
-
Over that we do have examples of "black out" depending as usual on plant, body style and model
Hi Jeff, any details/images of where the "black out" was applied for an early 10/68 dearborn mustang?
-
I will upload some additional photos that may not be on this forum to assist you as my Mach 1 was built 10/68 in Dearborn. There are many things on this car that was not "typical" to most 69's. I think for one reason it is not only an early car but a model change, so the many later revisions did not apply. I will caution you that if you don't have documentation to back up some of these items you may be docked points at a national show. For example I was deducted points for not enough sound deadener on the firewall however as you can see in my original photos there is little or next to none applied on my car. My car is an A/C car and has no radiator support seal however I took a hit on that too. I was almost deducted for the blue/grey undercarriage color but did remember to bring photos of this so no points deducted there. I am not a certified judge or renown expert but I did restore this car from the ground up and fortunately did take many photos at the teardown stage. I think an important thing to remember is this was a mass produced car mostly put together by humans and to say "ALL" should have or not have a particular detail is just not accurate. Good luck on your restoration and I hope these photos help. Chris
-
Thanks Chris, those do help
Jeff, from Chris's interior picture, it seems like the kick area was painted the car's slop color, is this typical for early dearborn? From your post i'd think it should be natural...
-
Chris, you had mentioned in another post that you identified some red oxide in the interior, do you by chance have a picture of that?
-
Jeff, from Chris's interior picture, it seems like the kick area was painted the car's slop color, is this typical for early dearborn? From your post i'd think it should be natural...
Will admit that I haven't gotten allot of calls for interior finish information over the last 30 years so I don't take as many pictures of these (not seen once the car is together) details
Looking at other "early" 69 Dearborn built examples it appears that the side area (where the kick panels will go) that Chris posted pictures of is pretty typical though later in the year this practice was dropped. You still find that allot of restorers do black out this area just because it looks better on a finished car even if it was not originally done.
The examples I found were built before and after your car so with Chris's example it covers the practice well at this point
Blue exterior car
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/3/6-070115175208.jpeg)
Red oxide and darkened area
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/3/6-070115175136.jpeg)
As for other "black out areas" on a sportroof at Dearborn 69, looking at my pictures it appears that that plant and time they didn't do what other plants and months in relationship to addressing those other areas
So addition interior shots from the first half of 69 production at Dearborn
Matches my description above as far as interior overspray of exterior color. Amount of overspray can differ allot
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/3/6-070115175239.jpeg)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/3/6-070115175353.jpeg)
-
I found some more photos that may help as far as the interior area of the firewall. Like the photos Jeff has it was red oxide. The area around the VIN tag was not originally blacked out as you can see in one of the photos however I did fudge on that a little and blacked it out for appearance reasons like Jeff mentioned. It just looks better especially on a brighter color car contrasting a black dash board. I found a shot of the lt. qtr. panel inside area with the sound deadener applied however the rt. qtr. panel was replaced at one time so not sure if it was applied there but I went ahead and applied it on the rt. side when I restored the car assuming it was there. I guess the thing that surprised me the most was the extent of the coverage of the slop blue metallic undercarriage color. The entire underside and engine bay was painted as you can see in areas the seat bolt access hole covers were removed along with the shock tower cover bolt head areas. The transmission tunnel and rear frame rails had good coverage also with a good amount of body color overspray applied.
-
Thanks Chris,
Jeff, in the interior shot of the images which Chris posted, i'm seeing grey slop painted on the interior kick panels, and it doesn't seem to be overspray, was this typical?
-
.............I guess the thing that surprised me the most was the extent of the coverage of the slop blue metallic undercarriage color. The entire underside and engine bay was painted as you can see............
Yes remember your pictures - yours is one of maybe 4-5 that we've found that had the additional use of the batch color at Dearborn in 69. Something much more typically found on 70's at that plant.
-
I'd like to get some feedback to see if this slop color looks about right, or whether it needs some adjustment --
-
I'd like to get some feedback to see if this slop color looks about right, or whether it needs some adjustment --
A couple of observations
1- Floor plan plugs would not have been in place (nor their sealant) when the car was being painted. so that should be bare galvanized with a black sealant around them. Same goes for the mounting screws
2- The sealant we see in the picture at the rocker to floor seam as well as the inner seat belt anchors would not have been applied before the batch color
Keep up the good work :)
-
Looks good to me as it looks toned downed and not full gloss. As far as the shade I am sure it varied quite a bit since it was coverage they were after. There was no paint code for this so if it looks close to what you had I think you are good to go. It looks very close to mine if you didn't have any examples on your car.
-
Looks good to me as it looks toned downed and not full gloss. .........
The dusting of exterior color and pinch weld black out will also reduce the gloss of the base batch color/paint to the eye once the car is completed
-
More progress, but i've got more questions:
I'm thinking for an early car, the cowl area just left body color, correct?
But i'm not sure about the area wheel well area, here is been pained black, but i'm thinking that's not quite right.
Anything else i've missed?
-
I'm thinking for an early car, the cowl area just left body color, correct?
Given the assembly plant and the date - Correct
But i'm not sure about the area wheel well area, here is been pained black, but i'm thinking that's not quite right.
Your right again. Not even close for that plant and time period.
This might help. If it doesn't explain everything well enough for you to paint the area please ask for more.
Anything else i've missed?
Just checking - you didn't paint the bottom of the frame rails, strut rod brackets, bottom of sway bar mounts ......?
Your getting there
-
Given the assembly plant and the date - Correct
Your right again. Not even close for that plant and time period.
This might help. If it doesn't explain everything well enough for you to paint the area please ask for more.
Hrm, did you intend to leave a link to some other post? maybe even this one:
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=9704.msg57242#msg57242
(its the one i've been reading and re-reading)
Just checking - you didn't paint the bottom of the frame rails, strut rod brackets, bottom of sway bar mounts ......?
I'll get a shot of how that area look: front area under the engine natural with some slop overspray... but posting an image will help me understand what i've missed.
-
Hrm, did you intend to leave a link to some other post? maybe even this one:
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=9704.msg57242#msg57242
(its the one i've been reading and re-reading)
That thread is for the 70 - not one I would have recommended.
Sorry forgot to put a link or two
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=2190.msg11344#msg11344
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=2190.msg11344#msg11344)
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=4348.msg24136#msg24136 (http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=4348.msg24136#msg24136)
And for some additional reading
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=7738.msg44251#msg44251 (http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=7738.msg44251#msg44251)
I'll get a shot of how that area look: front area under the engine natural with some slop overspray... but posting an image will help me understand what i've missed.
Sounds like a plan. Might need to touch up things there also
-
Here's a few shots from underneath,
The color here seems to be stronger than its actually painted around near the front rails, its a light blue-slop color, i'm not sure exactly why its showing up as strong. its misted over a natural color
-
Here's a few shots from underneath,
The color here seems to be stronger than its actually painted around near the front rails, its a light blue-slop color, i'm not sure exactly why its showing up as strong. its misted over a natural color
Is this the same color you used under the car from firewall rearward?
Is that light gray in the shock tower area?
Since you don't have documentation of how your car came not sure if I would have chosen the batch over the red oxide (more common)
Looks like your going to need to reapply the frame color back in the wheel well, then feather the body color and black back over the areas as shown in the attached threads.
-
Is this the same color you used under the car from firewall rearward?
Is that light gray in the shock tower area?
Since you don't have documentation of how your car came not sure if I would have chosen the batch over the red oxide (more common)
Looks like your going to need to reapply the frame color back in the wheel well, then feather the body color and black back over the areas as shown in the attached threads.
I'll get a better shot of the shock tower area.
As for the red-oxide, we used CobraJetChris's picture as a guideline since that was painted one day earlier (10/10) at the factory.
As for the wheel well -- thanks! That's the question is was going to ask to make sure i was reading the other thread correctly.
-
I'll get a better shot of the shock tower area.
As for the red-oxide, we used CobraJetChris's picture as a guideline since that was painted one day earlier (10/10) at the factory.
Make sure you save and print those (taking them with you) if you choose to show the car one day. There will likely be questions so address it with the judging team BEFORE they get started.
-
Make sure you save and print those (taking them with you) if you choose to show the car one day. There will likely be questions so address it with the judging team BEFORE they get started.
Good point.
Since more work needs to be invested for the front wheel wells, its worthwhile to consider red-oxide in the shock tower area. From your POV, if dearborm didn't do red-oxide under the car in this timeframe, would they have done red-oxide in the shock tower area?
While searching for other issues, i noticed: http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=9295.msg54639#msg54639,
that's a convertible, tho. would the wheel well be treated differently in that situation?
-
Here's some pictures of the current underbody, with overspray from body color,
As typical (for a newbie), there's more questions:
- Is the amount of overspray here too much, or typical?
- Would it have covered the seam sealer on the inside of the pinch weld? that would end up being covered by black out in any case, correct?
- did i miss the timing on sound deadener on the pans? Should that be under body color? Sound deadener is always applied (for all restoration/judging classes, or no?)
- What about the transmission tunnel? is that supposed to be natural, or slop?
-
Is the amount of overspray here too much, or typical?
It appears IMHO that you've done a pretty nice job with the amount of coverage. This is normally a challenge for painters today with the sort of guns available = HPLV don't produce the same amount of overspray as the older ones did. It appears that you likely used multiple passes and direct application which reduced some of the shadowing we would see on originals in some areas but it looks fine. It does look like your method of application didn't allow a shadow along the rocker panel to floor to develop as it would had it been sprayed on the rocker from a outside angle. This may cause an issue now as you apply the pinch weld black out.
Since I can't make out the detail in the picture did you apply enough sound deadener to the rear wheel well and allow it to "splash" overspray onto the frame and floor directly behind it. All too often owners/builders get too neat and mask the wheel well at the edge producing the look as if the sound deadener magically and suddenly ends at that edge. Not close to the original look at all - and results in point loss at shows
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/3/6-120315123035.jpeg)
Would it have covered the seam sealer on the inside of the pinch weld? that would end up being covered by black out in any case, correct?
Floor to rocker sealer appears to be applied after all the painting so would not expect to see any exterior color or pinch weld black out
did i miss the timing on sound deadener on the pans? Should that be under body color? Sound deadener is always applied (for all restoration/judging classes, or no?)
Wasn't your car a GT? On Grande's, Mach I's and for some reason Boss 302's received the additional sound deadener on the floor s after the car was partially together - much late so you should be good
What about the transmission tunnel? is that supposed to be natural, or slop?
Trans mission tunnel, part of the floor was painted like the rest of the floor - no special attention or detail there that I've ever seen. At times, it appears, if the firewall to floor junction in that area was a poor match (read gap) a worker would slap on some ugly sealant there.
-
... rear wheel well, side shots...
the white color really covers ... its hard to make out the deadener underneath, i've also got a closer shot to get a better idea of the texture --
-
Wasn't your car a GT? On Grande's, Mach I's and for some reason Boss 302's received the additional sound deadener on the floor s after the car was partially together - much late so you should be good
Yes, that's right, a GT ... ah, i'd not given that too much enough thought. Thanks...
-
Its all about the details - All of them ;)
-
Updated front wheel well....
-
Looks like you've been busy :)
That IMHO looks like it would be in the range/neighborhood of what would have been done typically that plant and time period
Since they would have applied the black last (from engine compartment) you would not have a straight line and some light overspray at the back end of the wheel well. But more of that area will be covered by fender and cowl top panel and later sound deadener
-
Thanks Jeff,
there's still lots more to do. we have a preliminary pinch-weld blackout one, i'll see if i can post that up for comment too,
but we still have some questions...
Where does the engine-bay black end on the side shirts near the cowl near the top of the fenders. Does the metal region which extends out from the cowl to the left and right uppers get engine black, or stay body color?
The batch/slop color for other dearborn parts (from the FAQ http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=4.0): hood latch, license plate bracket, battery tray, etc) which i've seen don't seem to follow the same color group as the blue/green batch color. Should these have the strong blue/green color, or are they more grey? From the shot's i've seen, they don't seem to be as obviously batch color. Are people toning these down to make them less obvious to keep your eye from noticing?
-
Where does the engine-bay black end on the side shirts near the cowl near the top of the fenders. Does the metal region which extends out from the cowl to the left and right uppers get engine black, or stay body color?
The top of the cowl (before the cowl panel is attached) would still be left body color - at the sides the black stops before it reaches the cowl - normally
Some shots that will surely provide a better idea than my words could ;)
On this one the arrow shows the original black/engine compartment paint edge. Ignore the other black - someone with a rattle can :( int he past
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/3/6-260315192500.jpeg)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/3/6-260315192607.jpeg)
The batch/slop color for other dearborn parts (from the FAQ http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=4.0): hood latch, license plate bracket, battery tray, etc) which i've seen don't seem to follow the same color group as the blue/green batch color. Should these have the strong blue/green color, or are they more grey?
IMHO I would describe them as a stronger gray (medium to almost black- very dark). In my experience it looks like allot less influence from the added blues, greens added. Likely a smaller percentage of added other colors (since that plant didn't have the same access to left over exterior paint colors as the car assembly line did. Likely a larger percentage of grays and blacks than the floor batch containers.
-
Thanks Jeff -- got it, so the reason the batch color was different was because these parts were getting painted in a different factory. It was still a batch color, but not 'boty-batch'.
That brings me to the inner fender shock tower cover -- from some of the images i see posted here, its a bit tough to tell how that got painted -- was it 'body-batch' or 'grey-batch'?
-
Thanks Jeff -- got it, so the reason the batch color was different was because these parts were getting painted in a different factory.
That would be a correct statement IMHO
It was still a batch color, but not 'body-batch'.
Yes there are differences as you have discovered - maybe two different terms should be developed
That brings me to the inner fender shock tower cover -- from some of the images i see posted here, its a bit tough to tell how that got painted -- was it 'body-batch' or 'grey-batch'?
Like all of the smaller individually painted parts - more of the grey base. Also most of these parts are heavily painted to the point where you can make out drips. This may because they were dipped in the batch paint or just so much paint that they produced drips often. In either case we don't have to know how they did it just how it ended up looking ;)
-
I was speaking with cobrajetchris, and he mentioned that the underside of his fenders were red oxide before he started into restoration. I'd not thought much about the other less visible parts of the car, and i'm wondering what's right for:
- Underside of the fender
- Underside of the front and rear valence
- Fender side of the headlight buckets[\li]
Any other backsides which i may have missed?
-
Underside of the fender
Underside of the front and rear valence
Fender side of the headlight buckets
Any other backsides which i may have missed?
Originally some of those parts would have been red oxide front and black (other than the head light buckets) The amount of overspray from painting the exterior and mating surfaces would have differed in amount based on the painter. Have examples where the back sides are as nice (fenders) as the out side or just enough to account and reflect what was being painted on the exterior - more around the wheel well and the bottom of the fender directly above the wheel well, back at the door opening, on the front bottom inner surface from painting the face and lower section where the front valance would be attached
As far as rear valance normally not allot of overspray normally since it was difficult for the paint to get there (normally more at the wings) since it was attached at the top to the body when the car was being painted. But after light gray primer surfacer coat ;)
To add to the list you would have the
- cowl cover
- lower panel for the grill opening (you can often make out the paint shadow from the two sections that sort of hang down at the front edge.
Other "back side" would be the quarter extensions but like the rear valance they were sort of on the body come exterior paint application - just spaced out a 1/4" or so
-
Thanks Jeff,
The grey oxide on the rear valence seems a bit odd, did that part come from a different line or supplier who always did those in grey?
Also, i have two original front valences, one in white and one in red. The white one came from
a car which had an accident on the drivers side. There's a square red oxide area, under what
appears to be a paper tag, but that's the only visible red oxide on the back of the valence. It also
has a ford part number stamped on it, which leads me to believe this part was replace and
repainted after the accident.
The 2nd one i have is all red -- no red oxide is visible. Maybe this was repainted, and the
painter painted the back of the valence along with the front?
Is it unusual for no red oxide to be visible on the back side of the front valence?
-
The grey oxide on the rear valence seems a bit odd, did that part come from a different line or supplier who always did those in grey?
Never heard or seen an original body panel that was originally painted grey from any stamping plant. Would expect that this was a result of preparation (primmer) applied by a body shop. Very typically
Is it unusual for no red oxide to be visible on the back side of the front valence?
For a final look, after the car was originally painted it is not unusual IMHO to have the back of the front valance (69-70) with no visible primer. The panel has a greater ability to get overspray and direct spray from painting edges with the pain guns they were originally using at the time due to the design. The greatest area where the paint may be chalky or thin can be behind the flange of the panel would be behind where they attach to the fenders due to the sharp bend there.
Of course the exterior color can also effect how visible (due to contrast) the back side exterior color overspray/application was