Topic: 429cj valve train shots - opinions?

[mac1971]

Hi again, As I progress on the tear down of my J Code 71 convertible, I bring some items forward here for review/opinions. The following three pictures show what I believe to be, a pretty good, clean and still useable valve train. However, I am seeking opinions based on any observations here. I do not know any of the history on the engine, other then that it is the original long block. The car apparently sat for at least the last 14 years, maybe longer. It runs strong, I did a compression test yesterday and all cylinders are close to 135psi with the lowest being 125psi.

As I am doing a rotisserie upgrade on the body, I will be going through the mechanicals and updating only as deemed necessary, due to budgetary issues. The three missing main engine components are being sourced at the moment. I have a lead on an alternator ($850 - exact original for this engine), Carb ($1495 - again the exact original for the engine), distributor So you can see it will add up quickly...

If this engine is shown to be in good shape, I would only look to change the oil pump and other gaskets as may be necessary. I will pull the oil pan to review the bottom end. Normally, I pull the heads and have them done, but I am wondering if that will be necessary based on how clean this top end looks. I know this can be deceiving, but I am trying to cut back where possible, without being sorry afterwards...

This valve train looks extremely good to my untrained eye. There is no sludge build up whatsoever, no pieces of valve seals sitting around etc. Everything is clean, nice surprise. I wish I knew what and when the engine may have been worked on in the past, but no go today. I have to make my decisions based on what I see and believe to be required.

If you were in my shoes, how far would you go with this engine, based on what you see here, overall budget concerns (as the paint and body are already going to be big $$)...

Thanks for constructive opinions gents! Cheers

[nham3407]

Since you commented that you will have the heads redone they will need to come off anyhow.  I think your best call on the engine willbe when you get the heads off and get a chance to look at the cylinder walls and the bottom end.  I am not an engine expert by any stretch of the imagination and know many others on this site are far more knowledgable than I.  I would look for more feedback, but from your pictures the rockers look good and that is all I would make a call on.  I know items will add up fast for this project, but also know do it righ the first time and do not be tempted to cut corners just to get to the end.  The goal is to have a great car when your done.

[Cobrajet428]

I agree that for a car of this rarity and value, a complete rebuild is justified. A rebuild is a significant but not the majority part of the total effort and cost of your restoration. You should also consider how time-consuming and disruptive it will be should you need to pull the engine later to rebuild it.

That said, one way to evaluate the functional condition of the valves is what's known as a "leakdown test". You may want to do an internet search for this to see if it could be useful in helping make your decision how to go forward.

[67gtasanjose]

DISCOVERY is your best answer. I agree with what has been shared thus far. A qualified engine person (with credentials other than internet hype and the builder's own opinion of their self) Inspection will reveal what has been done before and what needs done or done again.
Quality parts are a MUST on engine work, pinching pennies is a very bad idea and trust me, I can pinch a penny hard enough to make it into a nickel!

MINIMUM: HOT TANK the block, install New rings, rod bearings, main bearings cam bearings, plus what you already mentioned, (oil pump, pickup screen and Gaskets) and use EXPERIENCED discretion on everything else to consider if it should be reused or not. Keep EVERYTHING ORGANIZED, to go back in the EXACT PLACE IT WAS REMOVED... is a Very, very difficult task and as simple as it sounds to do, when you remove ANYTHING and EVERYTHING, if it gets reused, it is strongly suggested to put it back exactly where it was removed. Many rebuilders do this and many DO NOT. Build yourself a "clean area" that you place each item into so that it is 100% inventoried where and how it came out of the engine. This is 100% MANDATORY on Pistons, Rods, Rod Caps, Main Caps etc., but it is strongly suggested on all of those valvetrain parts too! Used parts "wear" into their adjoining parts and they don't like to be installed into something else. Be careful if you buy any parts new. Many things nowadays are made in China. I would not trust those parts.

Hope it helps...I've been doing extreme engine work for over 40 years, rebuilding engines since I was 14. I did engine rebuilding professionally, beginning at age 16 and lately not so much (machine shop services is what gets you)

[WT8095]

That's superb advice!

Keep EVERYTHING ORGANIZED, to go back in the EXACT PLACE IT WAS REMOVED...

I've got spreadsheet with a complete BOM listing every single part for my S-code engine, down to the individual fastener. So far I'm at 778 individual pieces (going through it again to make sure I didn't miss something). That doesn't even include all of the individual carburetor, alternator, distributor, etc. components, and cam and main bearings are grouped as sets. So it's over 800 pieces total to track. Organization is the #1 rule!

This is 100% MANDATORY on Pistons, Rods, Rod Caps, Main Caps etc., but it is strongly suggested on all of those valvetrain parts too!

Especially lifters, if you're reusing them and the cam!

[J_Speegle]

Having done this fairly recently let me add the following thoughts to the discussion.

1- Skip the fancy/correct alternator, dist, and carb and spend the only on the engine rebuild.

2- Like a restoration get the foundation right first (body & paint).  Many here have heard me say many times    everything after that is bolt on. So you can easily add all three of those expensive parts at at a later date in under an hour.

3- By waiting to purchase and even find those three hard parts you may find better prices or better replacements rather than forcing yourself to find and buy expensive - buy it now- pieces. Would guess if you have time and get  lucky the alternator might  could be found for $100. Example - I purchased my carb for $100 under the going rate from another owner that was turned off by the high prices and sold it to me just as a statement and to help out.

There you go - my best recommendation based on what you've provided and the current situation