Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models > Processes, Products & Techniques
phosphate and oil
sportyworty:
I use Prep and Etch as well and have for years. Dilute it with Distilled water 50/50 and get it up to 180 degrees and drop a steel wool pad in to agitate the solution. Much has been written here on the subject and peoples processes vary. I buy Manganese and Zinc to alter color on occasion for GM parts which can be purchased at a pottery supply store. Have not needed to use it though last few times for Ford parts by just increasing the time in the solution. Cheap and simple then dump the solution around my fruit trees
bgp429:
In stock at Home Depot, on my way there. Thanks!
J_Speegle:
--- Quote from: 68NordicCat on January 09, 2017, 12:51:18 AM ---. Blasting the parts first cleans them up and creates a nice surface for the treatment.
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Be aware that this often changes (depending on pressure and material used to clean) the surface of the part, altering it from original
bgp429:
--- Quote from: J_Speegle on January 09, 2017, 01:06:40 PM ---
Be aware that this often changes (depending on pressure and material used to clean) the surface of the part, altering it from original
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The latch and hinges were spray bombed, so it's not good paint. Going to try aircraft stripper first. That should remove most of it, then fine glass beads at low 80 psi. Think that will be the least invasive method. Home Depot had the Etch and Prep. Thanks everybody.
jwc66k:
--- Quote from: bgp429 on January 09, 2017, 01:48:34 PM ---The latch and hinges were spray bombed, so it's not good paint. Going to try aircraft stripper first. That should remove most of it, then fine glass beads at low 80 psi. Think that will be the least invasive method.
--- End quote ---
The one area you need to concentrate is the pivot points on hinges and latches. I use TIP http://www.tptools.com/ as a source for glass beads. I like their Scat Magic http://www.tptools.com/Skat-Magic-Abrasive,354.html?b=d*8019 which is made from crushed car window glass, 40-80 grit. When you think you've done a good job, go back and do the pivot points again, there's a lot of residual lubricant and crud in there. When you "cook" the parts in 180F minimum hot water and phosphate mix, some of it will loosen and may flow out. After a cold water rinse and dry cycle, hanging the part over a pan, I flush the pivot point with WD-40 until it runs clear. These are proven and tried methods. The picture of the hood hinge (it's for a 66) is too dark and was redone from scratch to a lighter shade of gray (see the center links). The springs were not redone as they should look like they were heat treated.
Read Phosphating 101 again http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=4624.0 You will be the judge of the finished product, not me.
Jim
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