ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1967 Mustang => Topic started by: ruppstang on August 15, 2015, 08:57:00 AM
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Does any one know of a source for concours 67 rear brake cables? We ordered a concours set from NPD and they came with no rubber protectors on them.
AMK use to have them but does not any more.
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The ones from inline tube are pretty good but order for 68 not 67
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This thread might save a future one for me.
So, does anyone sell just the rubber protectors/wipers where the cable exits the casing? My cables will work out OK, but the rubber tips are cooked/cracked/junk.
67 San Jose, built 11/66 if it matters
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The ones from inline tube are pretty good but order for 68 not 67
Why order a 68?, I need a 67 set with the equal cable length.
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This thread might save a future one for me.
So, does anyone sell just the rubber protectors/wipers where the cable exits the casing? My cables will work out OK, but the rubber tips are cooked/cracked/junk.
67 San Jose, built 11/66 if it matters
I think AMK has the tips, I may have some that I ordered by mistake once. Usually it is the rubber hose on the out side of the hosing that is bad.
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Its my understanding that 67s brake cables did not have a outside rubber casing like the 68s?
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Its my understanding that 67s brake cables did not have a outside rubber casing like the 68s?
Yes ,67 e brake cables should have the outside rubber casing on the backing plate end of both cables.
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I think AMK has the tips, I may have some that I ordered by mistake once. Usually it is the rubber hose on the out side of the hosing that is bad.
OK, I looked at my 67's cables this morning, it wasn't the tips that were cracked, it is the rubber insulators where they go over the springs.
The rubber insulators seem to be positioned directly over the springs, but begin several inches away from the backing plates on my example.
At least they are still here, I suppose maybe I'll try and repair the splits in the rubber.
Hmmm, any ideas what the "Right Stuff" to use might be to fill in the cracks ???
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OK, I looked at my 67's cables this morning, it wasn't the tips that were cracked, it is the rubber insulators where they go over the springs.
The rubber insulators seem to be positioned directly over the springs, but begin several inches away from the backing plates on my example.
At least they are still here, I suppose maybe I'll try and repair the splits in the rubber.
Hmmm, any ideas what the "Right Stuff" to use might be to fill in the cracks ???
Sorry to inform that nothing that looks correct just things that look some what better. Sometimes you can find nice originals . Most have the cracked rubber. Western cars have a better chance of having good metal but cracked rubber. Eastern cars better rubber but worse metal. Fill in cracks put some heat shrink over it and it still doesn't look like it is suppose to. Many years ,many restorers ,many ideas and nothing that will pass muster . Just letting you know that this is a decades old problem that many have tried to tackle. If it doesn't work out then your not the only one.
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...Just letting you know that this is a decades old problem that many have tried to tackle. If it doesn't work out then your not the only one.
The ones from inline tube are pretty good but order for 68 not 67
Why order a 68?, I need a 67 set with the equal cable length.
OK, so let's fast-forward this past the trying to patch my western cables with good, functioning cables and split rubber insulators...
As Marty has asked, why would the 68's be a better choice?
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At least they are still here, I suppose maybe I'll try and repair the splits in the rubber.
Hmmm, any ideas what the "Right Stuff" to use might be to fill in the cracks ???
I am no expert what so ever, but when you want a 'right stuff' to fix cracks in rubber components, I would chose Sikaflex Marine Deck caulk
(link : http://www.sika.com/en/marine-redirect/marine-market/marine/leisure-boats-yachts/01a006sa02400.html)
U need the 290i DC
It is a flexible rubber that is used for filling the linear 'gaps' between teak boards on a yacht.
Therefore, it has the pleasant advantage that you can sand it! :D
It remains very flexible (imagine the temperature differences between sun and no sun, winter/summer, raining and afterwoods sun shine,...)
And, it's only available in black finish ;D
Prepare yourself for a nasty job, but when fully dried/cured you can sand it in any shape.
Again, I am no car mechanic/builder/expert but when a part isn't available anymore, you have to improvise ::)
Just an opinion, naturally.
Kind regards,
Jeroen
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I never thought of verifying if these cables are correct or not for a 67.
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Revisiting this one:
Any new ideas on restoring the hose over the cables or are we still back at ordering NPD cables?
Tim never did explain WHY order 68's not 67's
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I never thought of verifying if these cables are correct or not for a 67.
I just looked at my mostly unmolested 67 SJ car and those look like the cables on my car (see pic). The axle is out of the car and all cables and lines were taped to the axle.
How in the world would one clean up these cables?
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How in the world would one clean up these cables?
Have you considered "Krud Kutter"? It's available at Home Depot.
To clean: remove cables; spray Krud Kutter on cables; use a tooth brush while spraying to clean; rinse with water; preserve clean metals of cable with kerosene; use furniture wax on rubber (beer optional for internal use).
Jim
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The cables can be soaked in evapo-rust. So long as they aren't real rusty/pitted, they will come out looking like new. Dry off with an air blower, then rub out with steel wool and rust inhibitor, wipe clean.
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Revisiting this one:
Any new ideas on restoring the hose over the cables or are we still back at ordering NPD cables?
Tim never did explain WHY order 68's not 67's
Although I have never tried this the long cable side of the 68-70 looks like the 67 cable except the 68 up cable is longer. The outer housing looks the same but the inner cable is longer. You would need the long side from two different separate 68-up sets of E brake cables. I suppose you could source 2 separate long side 68 - up cables and trim off the extra cable then add back the metal ball at the end. This a little harder then it sounds.
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Have you considered "Krud Kutter"? It's available at Home Depot.
To clean: remove cables; spray Krud Kutter on cables; use a tooth brush while spraying to clean; rinse with water; preserve clean metals of cable with kerosene; use furniture wax on rubber (beer optional for internal use).
Jim
I have some commercial degreaser that sounds like a heavy duty version of Krud Kutter.
I just hadn't considered that you could brighten up the metal regardless of how much dirt, grease and grime comes off.
Ok, thanks for the tips.
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My rubber sleeves are toast! I am looking for a way to re-do them. I've been thinking about spiral-slicing a rubber hose and bonding the slice closed again.
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The cables can be soaked in evapo-rust. So long as they aren't real rusty/pitted, they will come out looking like new. Dry off with an air blower, then rub out with steel wool and rust inhibitor, wipe clean.
Will use my commercial version of Krud Kutter followed up with Evapo-rust, if needed.
I used some Evapo-Rust on my starter solenoid (using paper tools soaked in the stuff) and was amazed at how good the metal looked without even re-doing the zinc.
If I wash the rear axle assembly outside right now it will freeze to the ground. But since I have half a dozen things going on at a time, I'll get to it after this weird cold snap goes away.
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... I'll get to it after this weird cold snap goes away.
Enjoying record high temps in the midwest today! 71 degrees, doors of my shop wide open and I am wearing short pants! NE Ohio up by Lake Erie, this is unheard of for mid-February! Been over 60 all night and still is right now at 5:15pm! ...it did rain for a few hours and put a damper on taking the '05 Convertible out for a ride :(
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My rubber sleeves are toast! I am looking for a way to re-do them. I've been thinking about spiral-slicing a rubber hose and bonding the slice closed again.
I too thought about shrink wrap, but it would shrink around the spiral. So then I went the other way -- stretch.
I measured by parts car rubber at 0.5" OD, 0.07 wall (about 1/16) for a ID of .036 or about 3/8" (0.375).
The rubber item that stretches well is latex tubing -- sling shot or hospital turbing.
I'm not sure how well it would stretch over the small end, but with a little lube...
Found it here (the pull down offers black):
http://www.latex-tubing.com/d038116-010.html
For you to experiment!
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Enjoying record high temps in the midwest today! 71 degrees, doors of my shop wide open and I am wearing short pants! NE Ohio up by Lake Erie, this is unheard of for mid-February! Been over 60 all night and still is right now at 5:15pm! ...it did rain for a few hours and put a damper on taking the '05 Convertible out for a ride :(
We even had some snow!
I'm not sure I want to picture the short pants bit, but glad someone got our normally temperate weather!
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I too thought about shrink wrap, but it would shrink around the spiral. So then I went the other way -- stretch.
I measured by parts car rubber at 0.5" OD, 0.07 wall (about 1/16) for a ID of .036 or about 3/8" (0.375).
The rubber item that stretches well is latex tubing -- sling shot or hospital turbing.
I'm not sure how well it would stretch over the small end, but with a little lube...
Found it here (the pull down offers black):
http://www.latex-tubing.com/d038116-010.html
For you to experiment!
I'll give it a try. I ordered 4 feet of it in black 10 feet seemed WAY too much length.
It would be good to hear that the ones NPD sells as "exact repro, 2 reqd." 2A635-2B we're actually just that. For $80 it would be nice to just press the "done" button on these. It has been a few years since this post started, I was hoping a reader had tried them (again) since then.
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I'll give it a try. I ordered 4 feet of it in black 10 feet seemed WAY too much length.
It would be good to hear that the ones NPD sells as "exact repro, 2 reqd." 2A635-2B we're actually just that. For $80 it would be nice to just press the "done" button on these. It has been a few years since this post started, I was hoping a reader had tried them (again) since then.
I will wish you the best of luck with the rubber replacement on the spiral. Maybe you will be the one to figure it out. If not don't feel bad hundreds have tried over the years and as I said before I haven't seen one yet that would pass inspection. The NPD "exact repro "is anything but .
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Buy original cars for dash pads, firewall pads and brake cables!
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I resemble that remark!
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Buy original cars for dash pads, firewall pads and brake cables!
Well, since all you restorers by trade are throwing out your junk cables (rusty, frayed, cut)...maybe somebody has a pair of rubber ends at the backing plates (see pictures).
My cables are ok and I am building an occasionally driven car so I can work with a few items 'less than perfect'.
Whether I find other rubbers or not, I will be using my original cables over.
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Tried to show the OEM rubber hose ribbing. Question on the yellow paint splash, was it applied after it was installed in the brake backing plate?
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Tried to show the OEM rubber hose ribbing. Question on the yellow paint splash, was it applied after it was installed in the brake backing plate?
Before by the supplier. Help workers to see the ends that needed to be inserted quicker IMHO kind of like the yellow ere often see on engine motor mounts.
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Well, since all you restorers by trade are throwing out your junk cables (rusty, frayed, cut)...maybe somebody has a pair of rubber ends at the backing plates (see pictures).
My cables are ok and I am building an occasionally driven car so I can work with a few items 'less than perfect'.
Whether I find other rubbers or not, I will be using my original cables over.
Richard I have bought the back plate rubber seals from AMK before. It is the boots on the other end that are not reproduced.
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Richard I have bought the back plate rubber seals from AMK before. It is the boots on the other end that are not reproduced.
Thanks. I found another reference in a different thread too with an AMK number of F-1791, I saw these in the AMK catalog a while back too but thought they were for the front end of the cable, different than mine at the first-look.
NPD sells them I see now too (2B635-1A), I imagine everyone who carries AMK products has them available.
On my next order sheet now.
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UPDATE ON IDEA TO USE LATEX TUBING:
I stretched/rolled about an inch and a half's worth of the stuff over the end. It is leaving some of the Spiral impressions in the latex. Obviously it does not have the original ribbed look either. Though it would be difficult, I believe I can figure out some way to get about a foot onto this cable.
Any thoughts on how it looks?
Any ideas, such as putting a buildup of RTV onto the cable, let cure, (used underneath of this tubing) before rolling/sliding it over top of it? The tubing rolls over itself as you install it, so there might be quite a fight to slide it on. I did not try any lube yet.
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I've owned my SJ car since 1986. With that said and not being able to vouch for what previous owners have done, here is a pic of what I believe to be a factory brake cable and sleeve.
The rubber does not appear to have any lines or ribs on it, just bumps where it has conformed to the cable underneath. I left a bit of thinner on the cable in order to see the bumps better.
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I've owned my SJ car since 1986. With that said and not being able to vouch for what previous owners have done, here is a pic of what I believe to be a factory brake cable and sleeve.
The rubber does not appear to have any lines or ribs on it, just bumps where it has conformed to the cable underneath. I left a bit of thinner on the cable in order to see the bumps better.
Thanks Bill.
After reviewing other pics, I see the spiral pattern looks to be typical. That aspect makes the job easier IMHO. Regarding the ribs, I just scraped through the crud on my original dry-rotted hose rubber and also see no ribs. Scott's must have come from a different supplier.
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I worked a matching length onto one cable.
It wasn't easy and my fingers will need a break for round 2 but how's this look?
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I took a piece of hose off of my parts car and washed it as good as I could.
I do see a parting line on one portion that looks like an extrusion line.
Look at the top of this pic. This line is not raised, it appears to be indented.
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I do see a parting line on one portion that looks like an extrusion line.
Look at the top of this pic. This line is not raised, it appears to be indented.
Residual manufacturing marks from the die. The tube may be extruded flat, formed into a round and then bonded.
Jim
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This is what mine looked like.
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The rubber protector can have ribs or no ribs. It is typical the see the outline of the spiral in the rubber.
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UPDATE ON IDEA TO USE LATEX TUBING:
SNIP
Any thoughts on how it looks?
Your first picture of the latex replacement is not very good.
Can you clean up your original and then place it next to latex replacement cable so we can see how close they are to each other?
If you didn't tell anyone do you think they could tell that it was latex?
Would Bob Gaines give it a pass? :)
There is a caveat to using latex. It doesn't like light and may degrade over time due to ozone and atmospheric conditions.
But it usually lasts for quite a number of years. Just don't expect it to last as long as the original rubber.
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...Can you clean up your original and then place it next to latex replacement cable so we can see how close they are to each other?
...If you didn't tell anyone do you think they could tell that it was latex?
Cleaned it up and clamped it next to the Latex while on the cable. Close enough for me. As far as clearer images, what else would you like to see? IMHO, it matches my original 99.9% with the only noticeable difference being the material is Latex. After cleaning my original better today, I found no evidence of any seam nor any ribbing in the rubber/plastic it is made from.
Would Bob Gaines give it a pass? :)
Who knows. Chances are he would want to see it in person.
There is a caveat to using latex. It doesn't like light and may degrade over time due to ozone and atmospheric conditions.
But it usually lasts for quite a number of years. Just don't expect it to last as long as the original rubber.
Understood. I do plan to occasionally drive my car (seldom, but occasionally). Chances are I will keep a slit-open rubber hose to slide over the latex to protect it while driving, with plans to remove it for any recognizable judged event.
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Thanks for the better pic!
My order should be here soon as I'm on the coast.
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Cleaned it up and clamped it next to the Latex while on the cable. Close enough for me. As far as clearer images, what else would you like to see? IMHO, it matches my original 99.9% with the only noticeable difference being the material is Latex. After cleaning my original better today, I found no evidence of any seam nor any ribbing in the rubber/plastic it is made from.
Who knows. Chances are he would want to see it in person.
Understood. I do plan to occasionally drive my car (seldom, but occasionally). Chances are I will keep a slit-open rubber hose to slide over the latex to protect it while driving, with plans to remove it for any recognizable judged event.
At least in the pictures it looks better then I thought it would. Bravo.
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Tried to show the OEM rubber hose ribbing. Question on the yellow paint splash, was it applied after it was installed in the brake backing plate?
I think after I first posted about this I threw my cables back onto the rack. While figuring out my specific brake spring colors, the issue of the fingers that hold the PB cable in the brake backing plate came up.
krelboyne posted this pic back on reply 28:
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=11803.0;attach=44659;image)
so that appears to solve my issue of color.
I've attached what mine look like and yellow is not the first thing that came to mind!
However, I found another color on the other end. And it's blue!
Shown here are both of my cables -- left cable dangling and the right shown in normal and closeup view.
Can anyone verify they also have this color?
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However, I found another color on the other end. And it's blue!
Shown here are both of my cables -- left cable dangling and the right shown in normal and closeup view.
Can anyone verify they also have this color?
Yes have found that many times on 67 E brake cable outer jackets at the rear (floor attachment) location. Think it's been mentioned in other threads
Is shown in Late- March 67 GT500 - Unrestored Picture Thread , Reply #9 Picture U-8
Other years can be other colors as shown in other threads and sections. In this case the color identifier is shared with 65 & 66's
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I typically have found the crimped end on a 67 SJ cable a green and not blue.
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May be the lighting and or camera settings. All of the ones I have pictures ( at least two dozen cars) they have always appears ( and in person) a teal greenish blue.
Just what I've found. On my computer screen the picture mentioned in my last post appears a good representation IMHO of the tone, tine and color
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While cleaning up this 67 SJ dirty cable I found an interesting color on the spring (inside the drum).
For lack of a better name, how about light dusty rose?
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I ordered the black tubing that you suggested so I will update when I get these cables restored! Thanks for directing me to this thread!
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These things take a while to clean up. It's like try to scrub a dolphin as it flops around.
Anyway, three different colors on this thing to match what I found on it (except for the yellow, which is most likely the right color).
If I remember right the spring color is Krylon 5521.
Plus, my patent pending (not) black tubing.
Do note that instead of pulling it over the smaller end I did the dishwashing liquid trick, used a small screwdriver to get it over the flange and then pushed it into place.
A rag in the vice to protect and hold it and a rag on my gloved hand to push down the cable. Yes, this takes a lot of lube.
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These things take a while to clean up. It's like try to scrub a dolphin as it flops around.
Anyway, three different colors on this thing to match what I found on it (except for the yellow, which is most likely the right color).
If I remember right the spring color is Krylon 5521.
Plus, my patent pending (not) black tubing.
Do note that instead of pulling it over the smaller end I did the dishwashing liquid trick, used a small screwdriver to get it over the flange and then pushed it into place.
A rag in the vice to protect and hold it and a rag on my gloved hand to push down the cable. Yes, this takes a lot of lube.
Interesting that your cables have these paint details.
It has been a couple years since I did mine but I don't remember any paint used in restoring mine. (also San Jose, built earlier in Nov. 66).
I wonder if this is a Supplier Detail for the earlier time frame.
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While cleaning up this 67 SJ dirty cable I found an interesting color on the spring (inside the drum).
For lack of a better name, how about light dusty rose?
Mine had the same. No picture handy.
However, I found another color on the other end. And it's blue!
Shown here are both of my cables -- left cable dangling and the right shown in normal and closeup view.
Can anyone verify they also have this color?
Mine had the same here as well. Found a pic. Also note FoMoCo stamp.
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I used 1 Shot sign painter's enamel in Salmon Pink for my spring detail.
Danny
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These things take a while to clean up. It's like try to scrub a dolphin as it flops around.
Anyway, three different colors on this thing to match what I found on it (except for the yellow, which is most likely the right color).
If I remember right the spring color is Krylon 5521.
Plus, my patent pending (not) black tubing.
Do note that instead of pulling it over the smaller end I did the dishwashing liquid trick, used a small screwdriver to get it over the flange and then pushed it into place.
A rag in the vice to protect and hold it and a rag on my gloved hand to push down the cable. Yes, this takes a lot of lube.
Typically I see the ends on the 67 cables a dark green . Maybe a MFG thing. Regardless of color the fitting was completely what ever color when it started out in the assembly phase before going through the crimping process. The squeezing crimping process caused scuffs and chips to the paint or dye. If you restore one with perfect paint then it is over restored IMO because it doesn't represent the part as it typically was in the real world.
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Interesting that your cables have these paint details.
It has been a couple years since I did mine but I don't remember any paint used in restoring mine. (also San Jose, built earlier in Nov. 66).
I wonder if this is a Supplier Detail for the earlier time frame.
I reiterate...or perhaps ask this as a question.
Are there other examples WITHOUT these details. I don't recall anybody discussing this before and did not pick up on any paint while doing mine a while back.
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I reiterate...or perhaps ask this as a question.
Are there other examples WITHOUT these details. I don't recall anybody discussing this before and did not pick up on any paint while doing mine a while back.
All that I have acquired have some remains of paint.
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All that I have acquired have some remains of paint.
Great, what I thought was done, ready and boxed (with fully assembled backing plates) has to be dismantled and done over. Good to know now, the diff. would be fully assembled likely in about a month from now.
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I ran out of media. Can't finish the second cable.
Had to order it online, which costs more.
Lots more. Great.
Now I have to remove the T9 from the end.
T9 does not like to come off.
I feel your pain!
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I reiterate...or perhaps ask this as a question.
Are there other examples WITHOUT these details. I don't recall anybody discussing this before and did not pick up on any paint while doing mine a while back.
It is my belief that most likely the paint would flake off the fitting given time and elements. Overwhelming examples I have seen and even NOS examples I have seen and had a thin application of marking paint/dye most likely meant to identify during assembly with no thought or reason to be concerned of it lasting on the car exposed to the environment. Let me be clear this is not just a 67 brake cable thing. Other year brake cables were identified in similar ways .The same is true for the similar conditions they were found in as they survived. Corrosion can help lift a already then surface coating The thin application makes observations of others without as no surprise to me. I too have seen examples without any indication of paint and think that they were the ones that paint flaked off of. If any were assembled with non painted crimped fittings then it would appear to me that it was more the exception then the rule . Just my perception until more compelling evidence suggest otherwise.
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I think the reason I could see the color is that my car was owner or dealer undercoated. Although painful to remove it saved some features -- like the blue/green paint found when I removed the cable and the hardened uncoating fell off.
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It is my belief that most likely the paint would flake off the fitting given time and elements. Overwhelming examples I have seen and even NOS examples I have seen and had a thin application of marking paint/dye most likely meant to identify during assembly with no thought or reason to be concerned of it lasting on the car exposed to the environment. Let me be clear this is not just a 67 brake cable thing. Other year brake cables were identified in similar ways .The same is true for the similar conditions they were found in as they survived. Corrosion can help lift a already then surface coating The thin application makes observations of others without as no surprise to me. I too have seen examples without any indication of paint and think that they were the ones that paint flaked off of. If any were assembled with non painted crimped fittings then it would appear to me that it was more the exception then the rule . Just my perception until more compelling evidence suggest otherwise.
I do recall this color on newer cars in the salvage yard (blue/teal color). I agree that it wasn't really a paint as much as a dye of sorts. It wasn't unique to only Fords as memory also serves seeing at the Dealership on new GM cars of the late 70s and early 80's too. No doubt a makers marking/dye.
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I sent Richard a PM of how I painted mine and decided to start again. Are we having fun yet?
I decided my paint was too thick and the details in it were disappearing.
My wife has an interesting Craft spray that emulates stained glass. I tried out the green and offer it up to see if I'm closer. I also have a blue spray ...
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I sent Richard a PM of how I painted mine and decided to start again. Are we having fun yet?
I decided my paint was too thick and the details in it were disappearing.
My wife has an interesting Craft spray that emulates stained glass. I tried out the green and offer it up to see if I'm closer. I also have a blue spray ...
No it was definitely more opaque.
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I decided my paint was too thick and the details in it were disappearing.
My wife has an interesting Craft spray that emulates stained glass. I tried out the green and offer it up to see if I'm closer. I also have a blue spray ...
Believe that has way too much clear in it. Doesn't appear to me on originals to be like a dye unless it had a fair amount of pigment, but not a heavy paint either. Other years look more like paint but that may be due to the brighter colors used.
Likely applied to all of the ends as used to identify ( for the worker at the suppliers plant) different sizes and styles for quick identification rather than identify the finished assembled cable aseembly
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No it was definitely more opaque.
Was the green applied to 68 cables as well. I did not see any residue of paint on my originals on that end of the cable, only the other end and there was a quite a bit still there to use as reference
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Was the green applied to 68 cables as well. I did not see any residue of paint on my originals on that end of the cable, only the other end and there was a quite a bit still there to use as reference
Not Bob :)
I have examples from 68's and no they are not the teal/blue color as found on the earlier (65-67) cars. Seems to match the 68-70 color - an orange
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I did a color match to what was on both of mine and it turned out to be a Royal Blue.
These are FoMoCo 'A' branded cables.
Every time I try and take a picture it turns out Teal Blue. Darker in person.
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Not Bob :)
I have examples from 68's and no they are not the teal/blue color as found on the earlier (65-67) cars. Seems to match the 68-70 color - an orange
+1 .68-70 typically orange .
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Forgot the pic.
I used fine-line tape to mask off the cable and only do the crimped on piece.
I'll put on scratch or roller marks after this gets really dry.
Color under my led lights is much brighter than when viewed under car.
Royal blue is actually quite dark.
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Not Bob :)
I have examples from 68's and no they are not the teal/blue color as found on the earlier (65-67) cars. Seems to match the 68-70 color - an orange
Thanks Jeff
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+1 .68-70 typically orange .
Great thanks Bob. I take that should also be a fairly opaque color as well. Would it be glossy or flat? I don't have a reference photo as I have never seen the orange paint before.
Thanks
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Great thanks Bob. I take that should also be a fairly opaque color as well. Would it be glossy or flat? Doiea none have a reference photo as I have never seen the orange paint before.
Thanks
Haven't found it to be opaque but instead more of a regular paint. Paint marks IMHO are rarely if ever made with flat paint. More likely than not that is the affect of age and exposure.
Here are four (have more) examples, covering from 68-70, that do show wear and tear from age and use but you can make out the color though originally the coating would have covered more of the surface
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/13/6-210420165530.jpeg)
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Haven't found it to be opaque but instead more of a regular paint. Paint marks IMHO are rarely if ever made with flat paint. More likely than not that is the affect of age and exposure.
Here are four (have more) examples, covering from 68-70, that do show wear and tear from age and use but you can make out the color though originally the coating would have covered more of the surface
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/13/6-210420165530.jpeg)
The bottom left box gets my vote the way it comes across on my monitor.
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The two original sets I have one from a March 68 San Jose 390 GT, and the other from an April 68 Dearborn CJ both have orange paint daubs on them.
Danny
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The two original sets I have one from a March 68 San Jose 390 GT, and the other from an April 68 Dearborn CJ both have orange paint daubs on them.
Danny
They may look like paint daubs now but originally the entire fitting was colored orange when new.I have had NOS ones.
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Thanks Bob, for the clarity!
Danny
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Haven't found it to be opaque but instead more of a regular paint. Paint marks IMHO are rarely if ever made with flat paint. More likely than not that is the affect of age and exposure.
Here are four (have more) examples, covering from 68-70, that do show wear and tear from age and use but you can make out the color though originally the coating would have covered more of the surface
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/13/6-210420165530.jpeg)
Thanks Jeff that is great info a good photos showing where the paint was applied
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I read into the above posts that "the entire fitting" included the spiral portion. After reading Bob's reply in Bullitt68s build thread the spiral part is separate and only the solid part of the fitting is to be painted.
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=19250.msg140539#msg140539
Just to clear up any misunderstanding beforehand, the blue color is for 67 and the yellow/orange color is for 68.
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I read into the above posts that "the entire fitting" included the spiral portion. After reading Bob's reply in Bullitt68s build thread the spiral part is separate and only the solid part of the fitting is to be painted.
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=19250.msg140539#msg140539
Just to clear up any misunderstanding beforehand, the blue color is for 67 and the yellow/orange color is for 68.
I thought I would mention that a green shade was also used in 67 .
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I thought I would mention that a green shade was also used in 67 .
Maybe we're seeing the same thing and describing it using different terms. I've found some to be on the teal side while others on the blue gray. Guess we could all start carrying the standard color charts but after 40 years don't think that is going to happen tomorrow :) Though it would have been a good idea I guess.
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I too thought about shrink wrap, but it would shrink around the spiral. So then I went the other way -- stretch.
I measured by parts car rubber at 0.5" OD, 0.07 wall (about 1/16) for a ID of .036 or about 3/8" (0.375).
The rubber item that stretches well is latex tubing -- sling shot or hospital turbing.
I'm not sure how well it would stretch over the small end, but with a little lube...
Found it here (the pull down offers black):
http://www.latex-tubing.com/d038116-010.html
For you to experiment!
A different idea for covering repaired or cracked rubber sleeves on original parking brake cables?
https://youtu.be/45iLe7wHsiY