ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Drivetrain => Topic started by: bullitt68 on June 27, 2023, 01:43:07 AM
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Looking for some pointers as I have never installed a big block Mustang motor. Planning to install the motor without the transmission attached. First I am concerned about what can be installed in the engine bay and secondly what should be on the motor.
This is a busy area and while I would like to have as much installed as possible before I install the motor, I want to make sure that nothing is in the way. So should I install the clutch rod as well as the booster and column?
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/18/4775-270623003734-187911717.jpeg)
Not sure if the heater box, steering column, brake booster, master cylinder (I think it will), steering box, stering linkage, cross member will be in the way.
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/18/4775-270623004018-187922036.jpeg)
Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
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In my experience, the steering column, heater, M/C and booster can and should all be in the car. You might remove the DS valve cover to improve clearance to the booster.
The bolt in cross member needs to be removed and the idler arm unbolted so you can drop the drag link down. Also, the motor mounts that go on the engine block should be installed there so you are just aligning the long bolt to complete the connection. I like to place the engine as close to the firewall as possible and lower straight down without bell housing or transmission.
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In my experience, the steering column, heater, M/C and booster can and should all be in the car. ..................
+1 Consider that if you don't install these how are you going to apply the sealant to all the attachment points and firewall pass through locations? Especially with a big block.
Never have I removed the #2 cross member. Never considered it but might have helped. Can't think of a couple of tips other than allot depends on the hoist and set up you use, comminication, taking it slowly, watch the exhaust manifold studs and start out with some areas padded and protected.
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get some moving blankets & at least 3-4 helpers. buy 'em a beer or 2 when done.
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+1 on completely installing everything through the firewall as done when the car was built by Ford. It's the only way to get the sealant done properly without the engine in the way. Negative engine to firewall cable is attached to the engine first, so no sealant over-spray on it.
If going in without trans attached, it's an easy drop down as Jim described. Removing crossmember and dropping steering linkage give some extra room and less chance for chipping/scratching up parts.
Ideally, you'll have the trans ready to go in after bolting the engine to the mounts. Without the trans, when taken off the hoist, the engine may lean back and put unnecessary stress on the mounts.
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To add what others have said for a BB I keep the master cylinder loose. This allows some wiggle room when things get close. The master cylinder is what gets close during engine install compared to the booster. There is some evidence that this was also done at least sometimes on the assemblyline for BB.
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To add what others have said for a BB I keep the master cylinder loose. This allows some wiggle room when things get close. The master cylinder is what gets close during engine install compared to the booster. There is some evidence that this was also done at least sometimes on the assemblyline for BB.
Great thanks Bob I was wondering about that as well