Recent Posts

1

1970 Mustang / Re: Roof Side Weatherstrip Clip

« Last post by alanmac on Today at 03:41:25 PM »

As per Jeff's OEM pictures, the front clip in on the outside and the rear clip is on the inside of the weatherstrip.  My car is missing the rear clips.   The ford shop manual doesn't show the front clip assembly, orientation or the location.  From the attached picture from my car, the front clip is on the outside of the weatherstrip and is riveted in place.   Both sides are assembled the same.  Due to patina and vehicle history, I believe these are original from the Metuchen assembly plant.  Note that the shape of the front clip has a formed channel for the outside base of the weatherstrip  to fit in.  I assume the shop manual picture of the clip is the rear clip since its on the inside of the weatherstrip and opposite the drip rail.  Note that the new clip does not have a channel for the base of the weatherstrip to fit but aligns and assembles with the cut out notch and the inside edge of the the stainless retainer.  Do I have this correct?  Alan 

2

1967 Mustang / 67 Fastback Glass

« Last post by orgnl70 on Today at 03:29:33 PM »

67 Fastback glass. Air car. I was told to look at a pc. of white paper thru the glass. If green it's tinted. Well I cannot see any difference. The car-lite logo is there and under it states Tempered,Sun-x. Is this tinted?
Should all the glass be marked like this? One vent window just has Car-Lite Tempered A52

3

1967 Mustang / Re: 1967 Front Bumper Overstamped Factory Codes

« Last post by kkupec02 on Today at 12:29:04 PM »

Here are the best 3 pictures of the 20 or so that I took.

4

1964 1/2 - 1965 / Re: Hole in firewall - what belongs there?

« Last post by cobrapatrol on Today at 11:30:08 AM »

It looks like the impression left from a hole saw with the drill bit hole in the center.

That's an interesting observation and certainly within the realm of possability. The hole edge is very neat and the (presumed original) firewall paint extends into the hole.  It does not appear to be raw cut like with a hole saw but more like a factory die cut.  There's no impression into the insulation pad at the circumference of the hole like a hole saw would make.  The car was certainly hot-rodded in its past and it might have been cut for an oil pressure line or some such added gauge.

I saw one map of early Mustang firewall in a https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/firewall-holes.949033/#lg=thread-949033&slide=0 VMF forum post that was apparently lifted from a Mustang Monthly article.
I cannot vouch for the information but it indicated an oil pressure line hole.  Possibly a Shelby prototype thing?

But the important information from the perspective of Concours Mustang is whether the hole was factory-made.  If the conclusion is no, it is not factory-made, then I will continue to investigate other sites of Mustang lore.

I greatly value your expertise! - Jim

5

1968 Mustang / Re: 1968 Mustang woodgrain inserts

« Last post by ruppstang on Today at 09:26:51 AM »

I purchased the woodgrain from Tony Branda for our GT350, I then cut my own pieces, it is very tedious.

6

1964 1/2 - 1965 / Driveshaft inside snap ring

« Last post by kcodecoupe on Today at 08:39:49 AM »

Looking for info as to when ford started installing the outside snap ring type driveshafts vs the inside type on 64.5-65 assy line mustangs , thanks.

7

1968 Mustang / 1968 Mustang woodgrain inserts

« Last post by nightmist on Today at 07:53:05 AM »

I am restoring a 1968 Mustang fastback GT with decor interior.  What is the best option for the woodgrain door, dash and upper console inserts? 

I have read a lot of complaints online about the aftermarket woodgrain kits not fitting well--shrinking, peeling, bubbling in heat--and the patterns not matching across the various panels.  Is there a more expensive option that looks better and lasts?

8

1970 Mustang / MACH 1 Stripes

« Last post by NPRK on Today at 06:27:33 AM »

HI GUY's ,
Are the Mach 1 stripes painted on or are they stickers?

Cheers Keith

9

Processes, Products & Techniques / Re: Red Dyed Hardware

« Last post by bullitt68 on Today at 12:55:24 AM »

I don't see any reason to reinvent the wheel. Of course it is always good to have a alternative if needed.The Dykem layout dye that I got 1 month ago is transparent and looks the same as always. Besides being the product that AMK used and most likely still uses I am not for sure if the ink would hold up as good as the layout dye. Maybe it does but no good reason for me to change IMO.  Plus it is easily accessible if I run out from Amazon or my local welding supply.

Agreed Bob. I was messing with dye and paint and other products, but ordered the Dykems dye and there is no going back now. It's cheap and far more durable from what I can tell as it is designed to be used on metal. The other methods are good in a pinch, but for the cost my money is on the machinist dye. However it does not work very well on phosphate, but appears that AMK uses a thicker non translucent product on the phosphate fasteners. The master cylinder, steering box bolts, idler arm nuts and bolts as well as the pitman arm nut for example. They appear to be painted. Not sure what they use but it does appear to be non translucent. When I tried the machinist dye on phosphated parts it was very hard to see the dye. I used the Dykems dye on the rear leaf spin/ axel nuts, as well as third member nuts

10

1964 1/2 - 1965 / Re: Hole in firewall - what belongs there?

« Last post by CharlesTurner on Today at 12:28:57 AM »

Maybe the assembly line worker drilled the wrong hole for the choke cable?  An A/C line hole would have been bigger.