ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Misc Items => Topic started by: RoyceP on January 09, 2021, 07:15:45 PM
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So I got the rebuild kit from Dead Nuts On, also the bearing installation tool. I have a hydraulic press and any typical accessories for it including blocks and bearing collars etc.
What I can't seem to figure out is where to start. Any help is very much appreciated! I don't want to start by ruining something. I suspect it is well within my capabilities if I only knew what to do first.
I checked for videos, online instructions, etc and seem to be finding nothing. Here are what I found in the Master Parts catalog and the DNO website:
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So I got the rebuild kit from Dead Nuts On, also the bearing installation tool. I have a hydraulic press and any typical accessories for it including blocks and bearing collars etc.
What I can't seem to figure out is where to start. Any help is very much appreciated! I don't want to start by ruining something. I suspect it is well within my capabilities if I only knew what to do first.
I checked for videos, online instructions, etc and seem to be finding nothing. Here are what I found in the Master Parts catalog and the DNO website:
I know you are more than capable. I can't give where to start direction other then I would try Jack@ Dead Nuts On given they sell the parts and do rebuilds. I would call but no doubt a email will work too. I am sure given they sell the parts that a where to start question would not be a issue to answer.
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I hate to bother Jack because I know he is pretty busy. I might do that if no one here has the process steps to take.
I know you are more than capable. I can't give where to start direction other then I would try Jack@ Dead Nuts On given they sell the parts and do rebuilds. I would call but no doubt a email will work too. I am sure given they sell the parts that a where to start question would not be a issue to answer.
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You might review this video - different pump but the basics should be the same.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1x3-R2l03Q
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I hate to bother Jack because I know he is pretty busy. I might do that if no one here has the process steps to take.
Just blame on me . Tell him Gaines said to call. ;D
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Looks good - thank you!
You might review this video - different pump but the basics should be the same.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1x3-R2l03Q
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After watching that video I decided I knew how it went together, therefore I knew how to take it apart. It went pretty easily coming apart.
First step is to remove the rear cover. I am rebuilding two pumps, one came off easily the other one I broke off two bolts.
Then set the hydraulic press up to support the casting on either side and to press out the bearing cartridge and impeller shaft together. I used a 1/2" Grade 8 bolt about 4 inches long to push the shaft out.
It looks like this:
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I caught the shaft in one hand as I worked the press pump handle with the other hand. After that I opened my bench vise enough so the casting is supported by the machined surface where the access plate goes. I used an 11/16" Power Kraft deep socket and a rubber faced dead blow hammer to knock the seal out.
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With the disassembly complete I was surprised to find two sizes of water pump impellers. One is 3 1/2" diameter, the other is 4 1/2" diameter. Both appear to be OEM. The one from Dead Nuts On is stamped steel - here are Jack's comments:
This is a service stamped steel water pump impeller for the following Ford engines:
352, 360, 390, 410, 427, 428, 428 PI, 428 CJ, 428 SCJ (FE Series engines)
* Ford originally used a larger cast iron impeller (not available) that was more efficient than this generic stamped steel impeller at high RPM's.
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Next step will be to soak the castings in Evaporust overnight. Tomorrow will be re - assembly day.
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Well only one would fit in the plastic tub so I used mechanical means to clean out the bearing and seal bores on the other one.
The tool from Dead Nuts On worked great for installing the bearing / shaft assembly. The side that is not counterbored is used to push the bearing in place flush with the casting. The short shaft goes towards the front of the car. As always parts that are pressed together are greased first. I use Mobil #28 on virtually everything.
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Next the water pump shaft is clamped in the vise with the casting resting on the aluminum jaws. The seal is greased up prior to installation. Then the DNO tool, using the recessed side this time, is used with a plastic faced dead blow mallet to install the seal.
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Next the impeller is greased and installed. There is a rectangular block of steel used to press the impeller on the pump shaft until it is flush. The other end of the shaft is resting on the block of steel on the trunnion of the press.
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The fan / pulley fitting is greased and pressed on next. The rectangular block is used to support the end of the shaft. An 11/16" Harbor Freight impact socket was used to press the flange in place. I used a 5/16" square lathe cutting bit as a go / no go gauge to get the flange exactly where the original had been.
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Form - A - Gasket #2 was used on both sides of the gasket, then the cover plate was installed.
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Last pictures - I smeared gasket sealer on the water nipple, then used the plastic faced hammer to install it. Not shown - I need to wipe the whole thing down with lacquer thinner before priming because I got grease and sealant all over the outside.
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Thank you for your effort of showing your step by step process. I appreciate knowing.
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Nicely done, including the photo documentation!
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Thanks just trying to make it easier on the next guy. I did not find anything specific to rebuilding an FE water pump in several Google searches or from searching here.
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Any reason you chose to not use the original impellers vs the replacements?
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I used the DNO impeller to replace the small OEM one. I rebuilt the second pump using the larger (same diameter as the DNO impeller) OEM impeller.
Any reason you chose to not use the original impellers vs the replacements?
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Thanks for the pictures - I would think one could follow along and do any of our pumps big or small block. How did you go about removing the nipple?
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The nipple came out when I grabbed it with some vice grip pliers. I just squeezed and pulled.
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Interesting read. The photos are great. Thanks.
My tubes were very, very stuck. I used an old non-OEM pump to try out a method for removing them prior to doing the "real" pump.
Find a bolt or other solid steel shaft that fits very tightly inside the tube, but don't insert it yet. Heat up the housing. I had to resort to an Oxy-Acy torch to heat the housing as my tubes would not come out under normal propane torch heat.
Insert the bolt or shaft and then grab the tube and twist it out. The insert prevents the tube from collapsing.
Too much heat could damage the seal/brg so do this on an empty housing or before the rebuild.
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Great write up and photos. Came across this while I am in the middle of rebuilding some water pumps.
Adding some photos here because I think one critical thing is missing. Before you take anything apart you should measure the overall distance from the mounting surface of the pump to the flange where the drive pulley mounts. This is a critical measurement because you want the pulley/fan to be in the same location. You are not limited how far you can press that flange in the place so could be off quite a bit if not careful.
Worth the extra effort to check prior to disassembly.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53323788216_3fcb72a160_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2pf3msU)20231110_212500 (https://flic.kr/p/2pf3msU) by Marcus Anghel (https://www.flickr.com/photos/154714213@N02/), on Flickr
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/53322911297_02f648ebdf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2peXRMB)20231110_212505 (https://flic.kr/p/2peXRMB) by Marcus Anghel (https://www.flickr.com/photos/154714213@N02/), on Flickr