ConcoursMustang Forums
1st Generation 1964 1/2 - 1973 - Questions & general discussions that apply to a specific year => 1967 Mustang => Topic started by: Deuce on January 16, 2015, 09:08:11 AM
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I have a NOS '67 underhood light socket/bracket and the pigtail/fuse that connects to the starter solenoid.
What's left is to splice in the long wire that connects the two. If anyone has the complete underhood light assembly to obtain an accurate measurement of the original wire length, that would insure cutting the correct length.
Thanks,
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By measuring the entire run of the wire from bulb socket to solenoid terminal, 96 in. / 8 ft. of wire will do the job. The original wire, now tattered and with many splices is black with a woven cloth covering. Same type of wire is used for the trunk light.
Any known sources for similar wire?
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By measuring the entire run of the wire from bulb socket to solenoid terminal, 96 in. / 8 ft. of wire will do the job. The original wire, now tattered and with many splices is black with a woven cloth covering. Same type of wire is used for the trunk light.
Any known sources for similar wire?
Would start looking at large Fords, Merc and Lincolns for a donor wire with at least the correct connecting (molded in) plugs and go from there
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Pictures anyone?
I have one of these lights.
I'll post up when I retrieve it from storage facility. I'd like to compare.
TY, Gimpy
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Finally got the NOS hood light made up with the length of wire. Here are a couple of pics.
The close-up photo is a bit fuzzy; stamping on bracket:
FoMoCo
C7ZB-15702-A
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It looks nice.
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That isn't NOS wire. That shield was never used on underhood lamps. There is only one company that I know that does the original wrapped wire with the bullet connector: That is Alloy Metal Products. They restored the lights for my Shelby. They did the underhood lamp and the trunk lamp. The insulator on that wire was used on the door latch control rods and the license plate lamp.
-Keith
P.S. The lamps are now reproduced and sold through NPD. The terminal is crimped. If you want the socket with the part number, they disassemble relatively easy. You could simply take the braided wire from the new lamp and put it on your original.
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Here is a picture of a 67 unrestored wire.
Marty
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P.S. The lamps are now reproduced and sold through NPD. The terminal is crimped. If you want the socket with the part number, they disassemble relatively easy. You could simply take the original braided wire from the new lamp.
LINK TO NPD's repro lamp:
http://www.npdlink.com/store/?p=catalog&mode=newsearch&search_str=15702&parent=0&year=0
1st, I agree that I don't like the job on the wire that was reproduced for the O.P, I thought I was alone so I didn't say anything earlier. I am rather in the same boat as the OP is (or was) I have an original lamp with only about 30 inches of wire before it was cut/spliced.
The mercury switch doesn't seem to work right, but it is possible I am holding it incorrectly when testing it (it seems to work backwards like it would stay on with the hood closed)
(directing towards somebody with an ORIGINAL, uncut wiring & lamp)
When comparing an unrestored wiring, fuse-holder and connector end that connects to the starter solenoid to the NPD unit, 1st question, does the repro even come close since it being sold as "exact repro" (yeah right, we've all heard that before) and...
2nd question, to reuse the original lamp housing and/or just the bracket with the Ford number and FoMoCo logo, how could the lamp be disassembled since there looks to be a "dimple" in the original lamp that secures the mercury switch and innards in place...I don't want to break either the original OR the replacement from NPD (should I go that route).
I ask because my original lamp, though not rusty, looks like a re-plating of the finish needs done to bring it up to concours level, therefore, a final question on "rebuilding" the original, I believe it was zinc plated, but was it BRIGHT or SATIN finish?
Richard
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Richard,
I had Alloy Metal Products restore my lamps. Both trunk and hood. I added them to my Shelby. Not an easy task with a fiberglass hood and deck lid. ( I ran a hidden ground) The hood lamp bulb should face towards the windshield when the hood is open.
My hood is off because I am getting ready to re-install the 427 soon. Here is a picture of both the wire and the lamp placement.
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Richard,
To answer your other question: The only thing missing from the reproduction is the stamped number. Non-existent. The wire and the fuse holder are exactly like the one that came on the factory part. The Ford parts, which I have had for 30 years have a zinc finish that is more on the shiny side. This finish is consistent on both the trunk and hood lamp.
-Keith
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Correct, the braided wire on my recently made up hood light is not NOS braided style, as it didn't seem available from any supplier. Good to know that it might be available now. FYI that braided wire is also used for trunk light.
It wasn't clear to me in the postings, does the NPD part have the original style braided wire?
I like the idea of mating new braided wire to my original mercury socket/switch.
Did I read here that the mercury switches can be repaired?
Thanks,
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Yes, the reproduction does have the original wrapped wire, and you can likely swap internals. I know several have swapped the wire off the reproductions.
-Keith
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I'm not completely sold yet on the notion the wire, fuse holder and the eyelet connection are "identical" without at least somebody with a perfectly good ORIGINAL, unrestored lamp etc. chimimg in. Pictures clear enough to compare would help, we have a picture of the NPD part, I feel we need some pictures of some original ones.
The example pictured at WCCC looks similar, but I do not think it is EXACT, like on the eyelet end for example.
http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/c7zb-15702-a.html?attribs=77
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I have one. The only noted difference would be that the locating clip, part number are not on the reproduction. If you're wanting correct wiring, just buy the repo and put the lamp aside for spares. As stated, when I first commented. I PERSONALLY HAVE BOTH OE FORD.
-Keith
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P.S. Alloy Metal Products is making them. So it's irrelevant who sells it, same maker.
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Working on underhood light details, thought this question might best fit here in this thread.
Marty's 11/4/66 built San Jose example pictured here (early style wiring clips etc, not same as later 67 or 68 models)
1.) Looking for a close-up image of the wiring loop used here, attached with the underhood light. (see picture attached)
2.) Looking for a picture of the LOCATOR at the lower hood edge on a factor original example (similar build date of early November '66 a PLUS)
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Richard,
All I can offer are pictures from 7F01C129187.
A bit different than Marty's. But it is an early Dearborn car.
The starter relay shows the in-line fuse.
John