ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Suspension => Topic started by: 67gtasanjose on January 10, 2016, 10:15:45 AM
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Looking for latest successful ideas on leaf spring disassembly and restoration. I have read through several threads and many good ideas shared are a few years, or more old. Are there are any good updates in processes or techniques available?
Something I did nor see mentioned was a good method of disassembly of the springs, a process of opening the clamp straps without damaging them (breaking off the bent tab).
I have heard that some have used Evaporust to clean the springs but wonder how much the cast iron of the spring material degrades the nature of the Evaporust.
FWIW, my springs would be very lightly rusted & mostly just dirty. They have not been exposed to a harsh environment ever so I want to be delicate as possible to conserve anything and everything that is original including the strap clamps & center bolts.
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I have heard that some have used Evaporust to clean the springs but wonder how much the cast iron of the spring material degrades the nature of the Evaporust.
Firstly, leaf springs are spring steel, not cast iron. Per Ford's AMA specs for 1968, they used 5160, 5147 and 5155 steels in their leaf springs. Regardless, the chelating agent in Evaporust will not react with the iron in spring steel or cast iron, it will only react with iron oxide (I'm simplifying it a bit). It may also react with other materials present on the surface of the part, such as grease, oil, paint, etc.
Chelators are great for this application because you don't have to worry about overexposure affecting the remaining good metal. Same with alkaline solutions - they won't touch the base steel. Acids, on the other hand, may remove rust, but they will also attack the steel itself. Acids can still be useful, it just requires more care and attention to control the process to remove the stuff you don't want, without removing stuff you want to keep. ;)
It's worth mentioning the safety aspect. Acids and alkalines may be faster and more effective than chelators, but they tend to be quite hazardous. Chelators are generally much safer, some are even non-toxic.
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Have not heard anyone with a new product or technique in recent years. Appears people are generally happy and have moved on to focus on other areas. Possibly the "if its not broken...." sort of thing ;) at least intil some of the products are no longer made or legal to use
I still remain trying and testing (will be moving at least that way in the months to come) products to protect the surfaces once their finished Believe that is where there can be more progress made
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Looking for latest successful ideas on leaf spring disassembly and restoration. I have read through several threads and many good ideas shared are a few years, or more old. Are there are any good updates in processes or techniques available?
Something I did nor see mentioned was a good method of disassembly of the springs, a process of opening the clamp straps without damaging them (breaking off the bent tab).
I have heard that some have used Evaporust to clean the springs but wonder how much the cast iron of the spring material degrades the nature of the Evaporust.
FWIW, my springs would be very lightly rusted & mostly just dirty. They have not been exposed to a harsh environment ever so I want to be delicate as possible to conserve anything and everything that is original including the strap clamps & center bolts.
I don't believe that there is a better solution on the spring strap/clamps as the metal is fatigued upon unfolding so once you fold them back you have a high probability of failure (breaking off) . The bad thing is that the failure might not happen immediately but happen some time later. Fortunately both the round hole and square hole straps are now being made. Not a complicated part so it was easy to get them to look correct.
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Thanks for the info guys.
I have built or rebuilt leaf springs multiple times in my lifespan but always as a "functional rebuild".
I guess all that is left is to simply go "Larry, The Cable Guy" on them and "Gitt-er-dunn!" ;)
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Fortunately both the round hole and square hole straps are now being made. Not a complicated part so it was easy to get them to look correct.
Who produces the round hole ones? And is that what San Jose used?
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Who produces the round hole ones? And is that what San Jose used?
it may depend on the year. 65,66,and 67 used the round at SJ . I don't know about other years. Shelby parts and restoration has both style straps.
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I was looking at the new NPD catalog and it says dissembling the leaf springs can be dangerous if taking the centering bolt out which they now reproduce. Is this true? I am contemplating redoing my springs and changing the bushings and pads out and redoing the paint dabs after soaking in evaporust.
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A 6-inch c-clamp securing the springs together someplace close to the old center bolt helps. You could also wrap a leather strap (belt) around the assembly near the center also but they really don't have much "kick".
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A 6-inch c-clamp securing the springs together someplace close to the old center bolt helps. ..............
+1 Sometimes it helps to place a guide through all the holes to keep them aligned during the compression step. Have a large dia phillips screw driver I often use for the task
Have (in a pinch) used a padded vise to do the same task though you need to watch all the leaves as they become loose when using this method to disassemble the stack :o
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Are these round holed clamps? They almost look like a D
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+1 on the c clamp and those are round. Shelby Parts and Restoration in WI is the place to get them.
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2 clamps one for the stack and one to square edges
1 big 1 smaller
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I'm beginning the journey of restoration of my leaf springs. The good news is the front bolts are not frozen to the bushing sleeves. Is there a concensus on the disassembly and reassembly steps? I'm thinking I take the clamps off first. Then the centering bolt using c clamps each step of the way.
Putting them back together should just be the reverse order.
Any advice?
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Are these round holed clamps? They almost look like a D
There were actually round, square, and "D" shaped holes on the clamps. The one pictured does look like a "D" shaped one to me.