ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Processes, Products & Techniques => Topic started by: lightwtjet on January 04, 2024, 12:09:38 AM
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I just replaced mine after reviewing several internet help videos. I am curious how many others have done so and how well it went.
Here is the most comprehensive video that I found.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0RZVQQVMZs In this video he states how the installation of U joints can result in driveline vibration. It is possible in some cases to bend the ears permanently when driving the end caps in. And for the use of aluminum driveshafts the steel bearing caps can result in galvanic corrosion at higher miles.
I will relate later how well it went for me.
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I watched the video you shared...coincidentally, I installed 2 u joints yesterday in a Chevy 4x4...since your everyday garden variety u-joint job doesn't pay the premium for checking the run-out, I simply clean up the cup bores and grooves & just whack them in, keep the needles upright and knock the caps backwards against the clips. If a problem is discovered, I deal with it as needed.
Not rocket science here.
Richard
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Richard - Glad your installation went well.
The video I offered is the general info--Video #6 has the important details on how to insert the cups into the bearing cross- best to run it back to the 27 min point.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fyAJdInryj8
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I worked in driveline engineering at Ford so I know cars can develop driveline vibration due to runout and balance of the driveshaft. There are examples on the internet of mechanics damaging the driveshaft when installing U Joints, so take your time. On my installation I had trouble with the tiny needles falling out of position when I installed the cups. The second video shows how to put the cup on the bottom and push the cup flush before driving in the other one, and how to move the cross back and forth to hold the needles in place. Spicer sells premium joints -the low price ones can have dimensional problems. Let us know your stories.
Here are the results-
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The only problem I've run into is on some replacement U-joints with external clips, it seems like a very tight tolerance. When I get the cups in and go to install the clips, one goes in easy and then I have to push the other end in more to get the 2nd clip on. One clip won't lay flat and when pushing it in, it causes the other clip to flare out, so have to split the difference. The latest ones I installed the clips wouldn't lay completely flat on the cups. These were Ford OEM U-joints also...
The video is useful, thanks for posting.
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Charles- per the Weber video they suggested that when a clip bows out like that the joint is a little too tight. They had undersize clips they got from Spicer to fix that. My spicer joint did not come with thinner clips. If the Ujoint cross is a few thousands wide or the yoke is too narrow you can get this. All one could do is grind a few thousands off each clip. Mustangs are not very sensitive to driveline input as compared to other Ford products - the Fairmont body structure was very sensitive requiring near perfect parts.
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The driveshaft is back in the Mustang. I decided to measure the driveshaft run out because when I had the old u-joints in there was a vibration above 60 mph. I measured the d/s run out then and it was .040 in. (the spec is less than .030 in. ). With the new u joints, it measured a maximum of .013 in. -that is very good.
Here is a good video that goes through the process- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYFs9wYzvjs
The torque on the U bolts is 15 ft/lbs.
And a picture showing the dial indicator at the rear of my d/s. Good luck