ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Misc Items => Topic started by: sparky65 on September 25, 2009, 11:24:04 PM
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I think I may have an original gas tank but it has undercoating on the bottom. I am going to try to clean it up to see how it comes out. But I was wondering if it is worth the work. How close are the repro tanks? And how can I verify that mine is an original before I go through the trouble of cleaning it?
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I think I may have an original gas tank but it has undercoating on the bottom. I am going to try to clean it up to see how it comes out. But I was wondering if it is worth the work. How close are the repro tanks?
They are pretty close and IMHO a good choice for most
And how can I verify that mine is an original before I go through the trouble of cleaning it?
Does it have a drain? Date code (if I recall correctly) is on the lip and can be viewed from the trunk side
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The way the two halves were seamed together is another difference . Seen from the trunk side as you look at the flange the assemblyline ones are one continuous welded seam only crossing where the beginning and the end overlap. The repros with the exception of this very trivial detail are difficult to beat are seamed together with as many as 4 passe's of the spot /ribbon weld machine. Crossing each other at the corners. Bob
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The way the two halves were seamed together is another difference . Seen from the trunk side as you look at the flange the assemblyline ones are one continuous welded seam only crossing where the beginning and the end overlap. The repros with the exception of this very trivial detail are difficult to beat are seamed together with as many as 4 passe's of the spot /ribbon weld machine. Crossing each other at the corners. Bob
I have put aside original tanks from Dec 64 San Jose, Feb 65 Dearborn and 66 Metuchen cars. The manufacturer of the repro tanks also has several original tanks. None (mine or theirs) have the continuous weld bead, all have 4 individual overlapping beads. The Ford blue prints only specify that the weld bead must be leak proof. They do not specify a weld style. I do have an "NOS" 65-68 Ford tank from the 80's that does have the continuous bead. Depending on what year you were referring to I think we have to allow for both weld styles at least for 65-66's.
Scott
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I just checked a late '64 gas tank I took out of a '65 San Jose coupe. It has the original USS stamp on top, which I believe it something like November 1964. This gas tank has lapped seam welds on the corners, no continuous weld. Appears that both types were in use by Ford.
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That is good to hear . The cars I was inspecting with this visual quirk were some 66 and 67 dated San Jose built Shelby cars and admittedly not a high cross section. Now I can advise others with high confidence that there is not a signifigant good reason not to use the repro gas tank for 65-68. Bob
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Sorry I didn't follow the thread closer before since I visited one of the yards today and could have confirmed. Not sure if both were used since some of the stuff we are seeing could be earlier replacements. Guess the date would be the only way to confirm for sure.
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Sorry I didn't follow the thread closer before since I visited one of the yards today and could have confirmed. Not sure if both were used since some of the stuff we are seeing could be earlier replacements. Guess the date would be the only way to confirm for sure.
Which one are you thinking is the replacement? Cross weld seams or continuous? I am 100% certain that the tank I have is original as it has a 1964 USS stamp on it.
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Looked at some pics. Found this one from Mike Murray's 4,500 mile Unrestored coupe. It's an Aug. '64 Dearborn car with lapped seams:
(http://www.early-mustang.com/charles/gas_tank_seam/DSCN1211.jpg)
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Sorry I didn't follow the thread closer before since I visited one of the yards today and could have confirmed. Not sure if both were used since some of the stuff we are seeing could be earlier replacements. Guess the date would be the only way to confirm for sure.
Which one are you thinking is the replacement? Cross weld seams or continuous? I am 100% certain that the tank I have is original as it has a 1964 USS stamp on it.
That makes two of us. I am 100% certain the continuous seam version was assemblyline original in the 30,000 mile car example I have . The dealer under coating preserved the underside finish well enough that it is still in use today on the same car now restored after a inside sealing job. Bob
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Which one are you thinking is the replacement? Cross weld seams or continuous? I am 100% certain that the tank I have is original as it has a 1964 USS stamp on it.
Could we have rushed to judgment - are we all even discussing the same year car?
This might make a difference in suppliers and practices - just a thought ;)
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My examples as I said were some 66 and 67 dated San Jose built Shelby cars and admittedly not a high cross section. Based on what everyone is seeing it is a you say ,probably a difference in suppliers. That would explain the difference in gas tank production techniques. As I said before now I can advise others with high confidence that there is not a signifigant good reason not to use the repro gas tank. Bob
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There is a "less than desirable" repro gas tank out there though... believe it has a hex base at the drain plug and has a bolt-looking hex head plug. Scott could probably elaborate.
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There is a "less than desirable" repro gas tank out there though... believe it has a hex base at the drain plug and has a bolt-looking hex head plug. Scott could probably elaborate.
Originals and the two repros have a fitting base that meets up with the tank that is hex shaped. The actual plug is a hex head on the imported tank and square on the original and Spectra tanks.
Scott
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Originals and the two repros have a fitting base that meets up with the tank that is hex shaped. The actual plug is a hex head on the imported tank and square on the original and Spectra tanks.
Scott
Yes, you are right that the original was a hex base, I should have been more clear and mentioned that there are some repro's that have this base much more "pronounced" than originals.
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Here is a picture that I took of the "better" reproduction gas tank's plug. I don't know what the import looks like, since we do not handle them.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_p0-lFqUxYZo/SMWY3O57M2I/AAAAAAAAAuA/mEOvojHu-iY/s400/er258b.jpg)
-Brant
Virginia Classic Mustang Inc
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The more pronounced hex is on the import. Spectra's is more like the original.
I don't sell the import either. I keep a sample of it put aside to remind me why! ;D
Scott
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I don't sell the import either. I keep a sample of it put aside to remind me why! ;D
Scott
Yeah, Scott. You have got to wonder why someone would sell those imports. I don't even think they are much cheaper.
I think that the Spectra tanks are really nice.
-Brant
Virginia Classic Mustang Inc
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FWIW, I have a 66 Dearborn convert, built Feb 18th, with the cross weld as in the picture that
Charles posted. The tank has a date code of 6B8C stamped into the lip and has the shorter hex fitting
and square plug as mentioned by Scott
John
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FWIW, I have a 66 Dearborn convert, built Feb 18th, with the cross weld as in the picture that
Charles posted. The tank has a date code of 6B8C stamped into the lip and has the shorter hex fitting
and square plug as mentioned by Scott
John
John, where on the tank lip was your date code (left side, right side?). Could you see it without removing tank from car.
Thanks,
Dave
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Dave: My car is under restoration, so I have the tank out of the car. The date code is on the bottom of
the lip that faces the tail panel, and is located about three to four inches right of center. I had to clear
off some sealer to find it. I did notice that the stamping had made some penetration to the top side
and that is what made me look on the bottom for it.
John
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Thanks John, My tank is still in haven't pulled it yet. Looked where you said and I defintely see the stamping from the other side. Thanks again
Dave
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Anyone want to snap a picture and post it for others that will follow ??
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Jeff: I would like to post a picture,but I don't know how to do it. Is there a tutorial somewhere on
how to post a picture. I would like to learn. I may be old, but I'm still trainable.
Thanks: John
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Anyone want to snap a picture and post it for others that will follow ??
Here's a picture of my 65 original gas tank stamped 5F30C. Stamp location just where John said his was. 9 days before the scheduled build date.
Dave
(http://i664.photobucket.com/albums/vv8/dkcain1/5F30CRev1.jpg)
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Thanks Dave - helps everyone!!
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Thanks Dave, some day I'm gonna get this picture thing figured out.
John