ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Suspension => Topic started by: 68 S Code on November 04, 2011, 10:16:38 PM
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Winter is fast approaching so garage time will be limited. Thinking about restoring a set of original leaf springs. I've tried cleaning one with evaporust with mixed results. Don't really want to sandblast these. They were covered in undercoating which I removed with xylene. So looking for stripping recommendations, disassemble or leave the original straps and final finish. What do the master restorers suggest? Read a post by Jeff where he painted them. Ken Bramblet mentioned phosphating them, others have mentioned gun bluing.
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Winter is fast approaching so garage time will be limited. Thinking about restoring a set of original leaf springs. I've tried cleaning one with evaporust with mixed results. Don't really want to sandblast these. They were covered in undercoating which I removed with xylene. So looking for stripping recommendations, disassemble or leave the original straps and final finish. What do the master restorers suggest? Read a post by Jeff where he painted them. Ken Bramblet mentioned phosphating them, others have mentioned gun bluing.
All three of the above are good advice probably in order of the best way - zinc phosphating is best but hard to do because of size. The gun blue is the next best but the spring will have to be stripped of all finish for the gun blueing to take and set. The painting is the last way. Eastwood sells a zinc phosphate looking paint in a spray can and it is normally too dark for the right finish on hinges ,bolts etc. but in this instance it mimics tha dark heat treated steel look quit well. New straps are a must to give the correct look you are trying to achieve. regarless of what ever you do plating or paint go over it with the rust inhibitor(boeshield for me). The originals were coated in a cosmoline type product. The best of luck with which ever choice you choose. Bob
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have to be careful anytime your getting something plated since ti deals with heat and that can effect things like springs. Not a big issue just one you need to discuss with the platter. I have mixed results with gun bluing on such a large surface (trying to keep it consistent) but as Bob said - all will work and provide you with what your looking for.
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My experience with zinc phoshate is that it is relatively low temp of about 160 to 180 degrees. Problem is the size of the component for home project. Then there is the maintenance issue. Could coat it with Cosmoline but then it will really attract dirt. Could use ECS product as it has shown promising results but let's see how other phosphated parts survive this first winter. Could clearcoat the phoshate as that darkens it up for more of that heat treated look. Insta-black is another option but that may be too dark.
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I've used insta-blak on leaf springs with nice results, coat with boeshield after using a small map-gas torch to release all the moisture out of the surface. Otherwise, they'll surface-rust.
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Just passing on what platters have warned me about in the past - not all use a low temp
As for clear I would steer away from that - tried that and was not happy over time (and a short time it was :(
I use Corrosion X rather than Bioshield - but either work well IMHO
NOTE POSTED 12/2016: Be aware that this product can have a negative affect on rubber products. Something that has been noticed over long term usage
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Jeff you mentioned that you havent had good results with clear. Figuring you used laquer clear out of a rattle can since out in Cali you guys cant get the good stuff anymoe. Laquer out of a spray bomb doent work well in my exeriance as well. Rust shows though very quickly. I have switched to urethane clear out of a gun mixed and ready to go as protective coating on pats is washed away blown dry and then the clear applied. So far the results have been fantastic. No rust showing under the clear. It is a bit shiney which I may try to dull down with a rattle can dusting of acrrylic enamel. Havent tried that as I need to test to make sure there isnt a reaction with urethane. The only pat which failed was clearing the tie rod sleeves after gun blueing. Those rusted terribly. Recleaned them and brushed on Cosmoline. Last I saw it seemed to be holding up. i attribute the poblem with sleeves to the water used to clean after the gun blueing.
Regarding cleaning the springs. Would you guys recommend sandblasting or I think I can get them redistripped? Each has some dawbacks but if I disassemble then the redistrip could work well without the added texture of blasting. The instablack sounds like a possible solution to getting the dark color without it being a paint which i fear may crack with spring flexing. Phosphate which will be hard to protect unless I go with cosmoline which will attract dust and road grime. I do want to drive this car. Bought the insta blak for the washer nozzels and some fasteners but after talking with Bob P it seems the washer nozzels are suppose to be a darker brown plated color. After cleaning a set I see what he means. Almost seems that the nozzle is brownish but the mounting tab is kind of greyish black. Dont understand why?
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I prefer to soak in evaporust for a day or 2, then use a spray bottle with insta-blak.
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After cleaning a set I see what he means. Almost seems that the nozzle is brownish but the mounting tab is kind of greyish black. Dont understand why?
I believe the nozzles are made of brass and then plated, the base bracket would be steel, which is probably why there is a difference in the plating color. I'm guessing it's the same plating, just reacting differently to each base metal.
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I also soaked in evaporust and that's where the brownish color appeared. A pic iis worth 100 words. Will post later.
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Jeff you mentioned that you haven't had good results with clear. Figuring you used lacquer clear out of a rattle can since out in Cali you guys cant get the good stuff anymore. Lacquer out of a spray bomb doesn't work well in my experience as well.
Have used rattle can lacquer and urethane
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Rattle can products are suspect in my experiences. I'm sure you have a compressor and a paint gun so try using professional grade urethane which is 2 stage and with an activator. I use a Dupont product called Nason 483-78 Mid Temp Activator and 496-00 Spot Panel Urethane Clearcoat with great results. Trick is to keep part protected untii 60 sec before applying clear. Say it's an evaporated piece. Once clean I redip it to protect it. Mix clear and have it in the gun. Wash piece, air and heat dry within a minute and then clear. Some parts may flash rust a tiny bit but once clear goes on no more oxygen so no more rust. I usually put on 3 coats. A bit glossy but hasn't rusted yet.