ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Suspension => Topic started by: BBs70fastback on January 22, 2012, 04:53:59 PM
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1970 Sportsroof 302 2V, Dearborn, built June 17, 1970, power steering, A/C
I have attached pictures of my power steering cylinder that I am working to restore. As suggested on here, there is a lot of helpful information on StangersSite.com about power cylinders and control valves and I am going to order rebuild kits from there. My unit is labeled as a Bendix 128564 9M 9A and appears original from the charts given on stangerssite. My questions are:
- I would like to submerge the cylinder in evaporust to take the rust off the outer cylinder. Would this be harmful to the inner workings? I thought about plugging the hose holes and dipping it vertically, stud boot end down, to minimize/eliminate what gets inside (not submerging the rod/seal area)? Would the stud boot end still allow liquid to get inside?
- If evaporust is a no no, then what is the best (least harmful) way to remove the surface rust from this part?
- By leaving the cylinder natural metal, does this piece also get the Boeshield treatment for protection?
- Finally, hopefully the pictures show that the threaded end of the rod appears bent. Is it supposed to be completely straight, or does it have an angle? If it should be straight, I will try to bend it back but don’t want to make things worse. Any suggestions?
Thank you,
Barry
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Would not dip it in the solution but instead wrap it in rags soaked in the product.
From there I would sand the metal to return the smooth surface, gun blue the welded areas then coat it with the rust treatment of your choice. Similar to what is shown in the driveline restoration article on this site
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=2275.0 (http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=2275.0)
Examples of what I did for the Dan's 69 (9F02M481897) a couple of years ago
Gun Bluing of the weld before the edge is softened
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/PSramrestoweldblued.jpg)
Final surface prep with steel wool. Surface first lightly prepped with gun bluing and not overworked to be really shinny. More of a fresh new steel look - though the camera and oil added to the reflection in the picture
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/PSramrestosteelwool.jpg)
Finished
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f49/firetrainer/PSramrestofinished.jpg)
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I've done them in Evaporust and they come out great. You can plug holes with plastic plugs
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Recently tumbled one and finish came out real nice.
Would definitely try evaporust first and see how it looks. It's easy to over-do these and make the finish look kinda fake and out of place on an otherwise well-done restoration.
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Thanks for all the helpful responses. Now hopefully I won't break off the end of the rod as I try to straighten it!
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1st Question: I am doing my 11 of '66 '67 Mustang cylinder and wish to confirm the finishes and boot clamps are the same across the years.
"Assuming" such things seems to have the potential of problems I do not want. I am replacing my "Rust-Free" So. Calif., original cylinder and have it as my example to work from so it seems to confirm the finishes are the same(e.g. welds & clamps, with different date codes)
2nd Question: I have the original ball stud boot to reuse, it is a bit stiff from age, doesn't seem to
be to brittle to reuse, is this a bad idea since it is so old and stiff? Better to change it out while it is apart? If so, a good source?
3rd Question: I have the original, rust-free shaft nuts, washers, spacer and tin nut and wonder what finish they should be. If not all the same, please specify what finish to what item.
4th Question: The rubber bushings off of the shaft are rotted, I am looking or a good Concours quality source (reproduction maybe?) The washers and nuts, I planned to reuse.
Thanks in advance, Richard