ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Misc Items => Topic started by: koski19 on June 23, 2013, 09:17:03 AM
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I rebuilt the alternator last night and have a couple of questions. 1966 Coupe 200 6 cyl San Jose plant
1. Did the alternator come with an Autolite Stamp? If so, where do I find this decal or stamp? Current markings: 15v 55A D40F 10300 Neg
2. How do I get the gold color (between the front/rear halves) back on the alternator or was it left natural?
I'll post photos later today after I get them re-sized.
Jeff
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I rebuilt the alternator last night and have a couple of questions. 1966 Coupe 200 6 cyl San Jose plant
1. Did the alternator come with an Autolite Stamp? If so, where do I find this decal or stamp? Current markings: 15v 55A D40F 10300 Neg
2. How do I get the gold color (between the front/rear halves) back on the alternator or was it left natural?
I'll post photos later today after I get them re-sized.
Jeff
look at this- http://www.deadnutson.com/autolite_alternators.html .If your core is metal stamped I wouldn't go to the trouble of ink stamping it IMHO. I would asemble a core resembling the ones in the link before going to that trouble. The kind of Varnish used gave the honey color to the center half. You may have to experiment with that . I hope this helps
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look at this- http://www.deadnutson.com/autolite_alternators.html .If your core is metal stamped I wouldn't go to the trouble of ink stamping it IMHO. I would asemble a core resembling the ones in the link before going to that trouble. The kind of Varnish used gave the honey color to the center half. You may have to experiment with that . I hope this helps
Well.....just got back from autozone and o'reilly's where I tested the alternator after the rebuild......It failed at both places. Looks like it's time to send it in for repair. Bummer. Probably a diode or stator. I think I went to that site this morning. They offer to rebuild my alternator for $245.00 + shipping. Since my engine isn't rebuilt yet and I won't be ready to install it until late august.....I'll check my options. Thanks for the info......
Jeff
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Jeff,
Before you jump in and get a rebuild, look at the back where the terminals are. There is a raised part of the center of the housing where the rear bearing goes and for your year it should be round. It will have a terminal with a white plastic ring that the white wire goes to on one edge (it's next to the one with the red ring). From Jan 1967 on (the date not 100 certain) that raised round will be tear dropped shaped. If yours is tear dropped shaped, don't bother using that alternator but try and find one with the round shape. When you stated the marking was D4OF-10300- (x), that alternator marking is for a 1974 alternator.
Jim
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6 cyl would typically have a 38A or 42A alternator also...
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Jeff,
Before you jump in and get a rebuild, look at the back where the terminals are. There is a raised part of the center of the housing where the rear bearing goes and for your year it should be round. It will have a terminal with a white plastic ring that the white wire goes to on one edge (it's next to the one with the red ring). From Jan 1967 on (the date not 100 certain) that raised round will be tear dropped shaped. If yours is tear dropped shaped, don't bother using that alternator but try and find one with the round shape. When you stated the marking was D4OF-10300- (x), that alternator marking is for a 1974 alternator.
Jim
Well...as promised here are the before and after photos. Thanks for the year date info. I hadn't gotten around to researching the year. By the photos, mine is the round housing. One question...when installing the rear bearing should it be flush with the casing? I think it should be. I replaced the bearings, brushes and the suppression capacitor.
Jeff
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Jeff,
That is the tear drop rear housing used from 67 on per Jim. Take a look at this link, you'll see the difference in the years:
http://www.deadnutson.com/albums/album_image/7071446/5278642.htm
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NowI see the difference...Thanks for pointing it out
Jeff
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Also the front have of your housing is incorrect as indicated by the square instead of rounded adjusting bolt ear. A core like you have is not worth messing with if you are trying for a authentic look. After studying the Dead nuts on site if you are not sure of what a authintic alt should look like ,i believe you will be dollars and time ahead just to purchase a correct one for your application from them. That is if a authentic look alt is what you ae after.FYI your fan is the 70's style too. Just my 2 cents
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Thanks Bob for the additional info....Yes, authenticity is what I'm after. This alternator will go back on the shelf waiting for someone who needs a core.
Jeff
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Concerning the stator; I was able to come close to the color shown on the deadnutson site by mixing some Golden Oak wood stain with semi gloss polyurathane finish. My results aren't picture worthy yet. Let the mixture dry a bit before applying, so it won't be so runny.