ConcoursMustang Forums
Restoring - General discussions that span across many different groups of years and models => Suspension => Topic started by: petersixtfive on November 30, 2014, 06:05:41 AM
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Would anyone have a method or experience pressing in the top bushing of a 65/66 front shock absorber
Have a set of nice used correct dated shocks without a bush and also have a nos pair of bushes
Need to bring the two together
Would the front shock have a typical paint daub
Any ideas appreciated
Thanks
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Have the same bushing but have not taken the time to install them yet so no help
As for paint markings we would need alot more info.
What year car?
What is the engineering number on the shock?
Standard or HD/GT suspension?
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I replaced the bushings in my '69 Autolite shocks. I used a vise, sockets and greased them well. Here is a before and after photo. I don't know about your's but mine had the bushing painted along with the shock originally, so I painted them the same. All the other rubber is original to the shocks.
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tobkob,
Did you position sockets on both sides of the shock absorber eye?
The socket that was pushing so to speak, was this sized to fit the rubber bush?
Did you modify the socket to fit over the mounting stem of the bush. ie 2 slots cut into the socket
Nice job on yours
Thanks
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Peter, It has been a couple of years since I did them but if I remember correctly I started off with the vise pushing directly on the shaft and a socket on the other end. I had to keep working it back and forth a few times as the bushing would slip on the shaft. I think I did push the bushing with a socket after it was partially through the eyelet. As with many of these task you have to have patience and go slowly.
TOB
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I had an NOS upper bushing I tried to install on an original front shock, the rubber tore away from the shaft. Ended up sending them to a Corvette guy that rebuilds shocks. He actually cut open the top, inserted the bushing and then welded everything back together. Not what I was expecting, but one way to do it. Would much rather press them in if possible.
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David Davis, does shock work. I am getting ready to send a bunch of rare shocks to him to have threads weld one ,bushings installed .He can even rebuild them. He is a good guy and forum member ;) . www.dsdrestorationsllc.com
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Thanks for the tip Bob. Have worked with him on ball joint rivets and did a nice job.
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David Davis, does shock work. I am getting ready to send a bunch of rare shocks to him to have threads weld one ,bushings installed .He can even rebuild them. He is a good guy and forum member ;) . www.dsdrestorationsllc.com
great guy
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Successfully installed the top bushes in the shock absorber eyes by pressing them in
Will post a pic of the completed shocks once I finish painting them
Would the black paint for shocks be more on the glossy side of semi gloss?
Any suggestion as to the correct colored paint daub that may have been used near the bottom of the shock on a
Gt package
Also would original lower shock rubbers be typically marked with HARRIS on them
Thanks
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Successfully installed the top bushes in the shock absorber eyes by pressing them in
Will post a pic of the completed shocks once I finish painting them
Would the black paint for shocks be more on the glossy side than semi gloss?
Any suggestion as to the correct coloured paint daub that may have been used near the bottom of the shock on a
Gt package
Also would original lower rubber bushed be typically marked with HARRIS on them
Thanks
Shinier semi black, I have seen Harris on many of shock bushings after they were taken off because I can't tell when installed .
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from my experience with original 65.66 shocks and rubbers.
the rubbers seem to have the following markings which are FORD HARRIS and the numbers 7-500969 on each rubber
post some pictures peter once completed.
regards.
PHILL BERESFORD.
MELBOURNE.
AUSTRALIA.
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Hi guys
Does anyone know where I could get the rubber bushes for these auto lite shocks (front & rear) and also the bushing for the spring saddle as well. I'm having no luck trying to get my hands on these.
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Hi guys
Does anyone know where I could get the rubber bushes for these auto lite shocks (front & rear) and also the bushing for the spring saddle as well. I'm having no luck trying to get my hands on these.
See reply #6 . I don't know if he will sell them separately (spring perch bushings too) but i have found him fair on his work and given the learning curve if you don't do them often as well as the time it takes it made more sense for me to have him do it all.
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Thanks bob he's helping me out.
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If you just need the bushings you can go to Auto Zone and buy some Gabriel shocks. All my bushings were good except the top ones and if I remember correctly the lower ones may be a bit smaller.
TOB
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If you just need the bushings you can go to Auto Zone and buy some Gabriel shocks. ............
Think you'll find those will not do - since they often have different markings or lack the factory ones :(
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Top bushing with Harris markings
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DSD Restorations web site seems to be gone. Does anyone know where to get these bushings now?
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DSD Restorations web site seems to be gone. Does anyone know where to get these bushings now?
I'll pm you some contact info.
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Thank you!
I'll pm you some contact info.
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In judging we've seen allot of reproduction/replaced front shock upper bushings not holding up well. Not sure if its the rubber being used or owners/builders not using the upper A arm stops when the lift the cars off the suspension. Just wanted to let others know this has become somewhat common unfortunately
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DSD no longer offers them due to the longevity issue. I am going to rob a set from some NOS Motorcraft shocks.
In judging we've seen allot of reproduction/replaced front shock upper bushings not holding up well. Not sure if its the rubber being used or owners/builders not using the upper A arm stops when the lift the cars off the suspension. Just wanted to let others know this has become somewhat common unfortunately
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DSD no longer offers them due to the longevity issue. I am going to rob a set from some NOS Motorcraft shocks.
The chances of those not holding up ether are less if you do not use the small brace under the upper control arm as mentioned in reply #21 and outlined in any of the 65-70 shop manuals (for good reason). I think Marcus made some up from the shop manual diagrams and sells them. FYI I painted mine florescent green to help me not forget to take them out before I let the car down.
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FYI I painted mine florescent green to help me not forget to take them out before I let the car down.
Wouldn't that be after?
I use a block of wood, a "Home Depot" cutoff special.
Jim
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Wouldn't that be after?
I use a block of wood, a "Home Depot" cutoff special.
Jim
Yes I should have clarified . Typically yes . I was thinking of my situation on a lift where I have a car on a 4 post lift I do the work with the car raised up in the air . I lift the suspension while on the 4 post lift so I am standing up while working . I let the body down but have forgotten to take the support out before lowering my four post lift and driving off. It will fall out the first time you hit a good bump but that is not a good time.
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The local Advance Auto Parts store sent me a 20% discount coupon which I used to buy a pair of Monroe shocks to try and rob the upper bushings from. Pressing out the bushing and axle together proved to be simple using my hydraulic press.
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I also pressed the rotten upper bushing and axle from the Autolite assembly line original shocks. The ID of the assembly line shock is .950" while the Monroe shock is 1.125".
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Here's the Monroe bushing, and a comparison of the axles.
The original axle (lower) is .625" OD made from 5/8" seamless .95" wall tubing. The Monroe axle (top, yellow) is made from rolled steel sheet .083" thick. So not only does it not look right, it isn't as strong.
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Since the bushing had the proper ID, I set to work changing the OD. I slipped the axle over a 1/2" bolt chucked into my cordless drill. Initially I tried using the abrasive wheel, but soon moved over to the belt sander. This is tough rubber, it took quite a while to get the OD down to 1" which I thought would be an appropriate interference fit for the .95" hole in the shock.
Shown is the as removed bushing next to one that is fit to the OEM shock.
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Here's the OEM Autolite shock and all the parts. I pressed it back together using the hydraulic press, with the larger diameter socket supporting the shock while the smaller socket was used to press on the rubber bushing.
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The results - not too good, but with a better bushing to start with the technique may work.
The Monroe bushing sheared off a little at the bottom, cut by the socket.
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Also, it is just too narrow to ever look right. with the axle centered there is an appropriate amount of rubber on one side but not enough on the other.
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Here is one of my NOS front shocks for comparison.
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I have been successful swapping these out with either vintage or newer Gabriel bushings and crossbar. As shown, the Monroe is too narrow and wrong profile.
Didn't need to use a press at all - just spray the donor bushing good with silicone spray, put one end of the crossbar in a vise, then twist and pull it off. The bushing and cross come out together.
Reverse process to install on the old shock - twist and push after soak with silicone. Really easy peasy.
Kurt
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I agree that the real trick is first finding a acceptable bushing.
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I ordered a set. More to follow. Thanks!
I have been successful swapping these out with either vintage or newer Gabriel bushings and crossbar. As shown, the Monroe is too narrow and wrong profile.
Didn't need to use a press at all - just spray the donor bushing good with silicone spray, put one end of the crossbar in a vise, then twist and pull it off. The bushing and cross come out together.
Reverse process to install on the old shock - twist and push after soak with silicone. Really easy peasy.
Kurt
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Be sure to grease well before pressing the bushing in... ;)
TOB
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Be sure to grease well before pressing the bushing in...
Don't use a silicon based anything, easy in - easy out. In the past (for different slide in applications) liquid dish soap was "recommended".
Jim
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Don't use a silicon based anything,
+1... I just used grease from the grease gun so it would clean off...
TOB
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Well the Gabriel shocks from Auto Zone arrived at my door about 1 hour ago.
Comparing the axle the Gabriel ones are probably the same material as the Monroe shocks. Thinner wall thickness compared to the original Autolite shocks. The shape was spot on compared to the originals though. Gabriel on the left, Autolite on the right.
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I used WD40 as recommended. Within 10 minutes both shocks are done! I just need to finish stripping the old paint so they can be restored to original appearance.
One other observation, the Gabriel shocks have about 1" less travel than the Autolite shocks.
Thanks to all for the helpful suggestions!
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i got bushings that work if needed
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If someone has a pair of bushings for the 69 Autolite shocks, I'd like to replace the innertube rubber someone used on mine. Else if the Gabriel shocks are more reasonably priced and readily available, I'll go that route. What is the Gabriel shock part #?
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The Gabriel part number is 82104 and they cost $19.99 each at Auto Zone.
If someone has a pair of bushings for the 69 Autolite shocks, I'd like to replace the innertube rubber someone used on mine. Else if the Gabriel shocks are more reasonably priced and readily available, I'll go that route. What is the Gabriel shock part #?